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-   -   HELP! Passenger AXEL Install Problems (https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b6-platform-discussion-34/help-passenger-axel-install-problems-2969784/)

George Trudeau 03-31-2019 02:37 PM

HELP! Passenger AXEL Install Problems
 
hey there!

I am having a frustrating time R&R'ing my teenage daughter's 2006 A4 Cabrio cv axel (passenger side). I somehow got the thing out (by the grace of God), but it it wasn't obvious. It was tight. In a fit of near rage, flailing it back and forth with my body weight as a last ditch effort, popped it out. I knew I was in for it, with the install... and boy was I right.

NOW, I am trying to get the damn thing back in (I am sorry, I am incredibly frustrated). I have the steering wheel cranked as far left as possible, and there just isn't enough room to slip the splines through the hub. All of the YouTubes I watched, showed the ability to 'simply' push the transaxle side of the axel up and over to the left or right. In my car, there is a MUCH different range of placement. It looks much different than the A6's, Passat's and A4 non-turbos that just happen to be on YouTube. My turbo car's 'up and to the left', is very limited in room. 'Up and to the right' is littered with what looks to be oil lines for the turbo. I have no room.

Does anyone have experience with 1.8T A4 passenger axels??? There's NO stinking room and I can't get this thing popped back in.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??

~Frustrated in Seattle....

lyleswk 04-01-2019 05:25 AM

Take a look at this recent thread. Appears the auto and CVT have tranny lines in the way and requires additional debuild.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-...-help-2965649/

turbo510 04-01-2019 03:01 PM

A couple of things to perhaps try are (1) jack up the suspension on the side you are removing the axle from; this should be (I believe) directly under the attachment for the spring/shock, since this is where the vehicle load is applied through the spring. Lifted enough, clearance is increased to remove the axle, because the lower control arms swing in an arc moving the hub away from the car. (2) I typically skip step one by removing the 'pinch bolt' that retains the two upper ball joint studs, then just tapping that bolt out and then tapping the ball joints studs up and out. I disconnect the tie-rod end stud too, which allows the suspension casting to swing out from the top and twist to allow for the extra clearance you need. The pinch bolt is a problem is some wet areas I hear, although mine are so loose a tiny hammer gets them out.


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