Transmission swap with 01E (2004 A4 Quattro 3.0 6sp)(need advice on parts)
06-21-2017, 04:56 PM
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Transmission swap with 01E (2004 A4 Quattro 3.0 6sp)(need advice on parts)
I'm planning on swapping my transmission from my 04 Quattro 3.0 6sp (non TDI) with an earlier 01E 6sp transmission. I hear that I need to source some new parts and am hoping I can get some advice on where to get these parts.
- different length driveshaft
- hubs
- axles
- trans mount
So far that is the most I know, has anyone out here done the swap before on this application? I'd really appreciate advice on how much I can swap and how much I will need to have custom fabricated. thanks!
Chris
- different length driveshaft
- hubs
- axles
- trans mount
So far that is the most I know, has anyone out here done the swap before on this application? I'd really appreciate advice on how much I can swap and how much I will need to have custom fabricated. thanks!
Chris
06-23-2017, 09:47 AM
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Let me know when you get to the axle part.
I can give you the depth of my flanges and part numbers on them to contrast and compare.
And I think I have sussed out what the lengths need to be now and a source.
Here is my axle stuff for what it is worth:
My originals
uncompressed minus housing:
24.250” → 25.325” overall driver side (1.125”housing inside flange)
25.000” → 26.125” overall passenger side (1.125” housing inside flange)
compressed minus housing:
23.500” → 24.625” overall driver side (.75” compression)
24.250” → 24.375” passenger side (.75” compression)
2001 S4 appears to be best fit for 2001 A4 with 3.0 6MT.
Block is the same Iron vs AL, and transmission is the same.
The only difference may be the Flanges, or flange depth.
Measurements on A4 B6 with pinch bolt installed and axles out from inner flange bolt hole to outer bearing end:
What I am looking for on-line (usually compressed and overall):
24.625”
25.375”
Amazon:
GSP NCV23593 CV Axle Assembly (Front Driver Side)
Compressed Length is 24 3/16" (24.1875), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 33, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
GSP NCV23573 CV Axle Assembly (Front Passenger Side)
Compressed Length is 24 15/16" (24.9375), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 38, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
These are 7/16” (.4375) ~1/2” (.5) off of my desired (compressed and overall) measurements!
This seems “right,” because axle should not be totally compressed even when at it’s (level) shortest, so as not to bind when level and at their shortest..and to center bearings in the spider gear and cage of the two CV joints on each axle.
Note B5 S4 parts are different lengths..probably because of B5 Flange depth/width.
OR!!!
Rebuild axles yourself and buy used 1.8L Audi axles for parts!!
OEM boots can be had for cheap on www.autohauzaz.com
or Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay.
I can give you the depth of my flanges and part numbers on them to contrast and compare.
And I think I have sussed out what the lengths need to be now and a source.
Here is my axle stuff for what it is worth:
My originals
uncompressed minus housing:
24.250” → 25.325” overall driver side (1.125”housing inside flange)
25.000” → 26.125” overall passenger side (1.125” housing inside flange)
compressed minus housing:
23.500” → 24.625” overall driver side (.75” compression)
24.250” → 24.375” passenger side (.75” compression)
2001 S4 appears to be best fit for 2001 A4 with 3.0 6MT.
Block is the same Iron vs AL, and transmission is the same.
The only difference may be the Flanges, or flange depth.
Measurements on A4 B6 with pinch bolt installed and axles out from inner flange bolt hole to outer bearing end:
What I am looking for on-line (usually compressed and overall):
24.625”
25.375”
Amazon:
GSP NCV23593 CV Axle Assembly (Front Driver Side)
Compressed Length is 24 3/16" (24.1875), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 33, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
GSP NCV23573 CV Axle Assembly (Front Passenger Side)
Compressed Length is 24 15/16" (24.9375), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 38, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
These are 7/16” (.4375) ~1/2” (.5) off of my desired (compressed and overall) measurements!
This seems “right,” because axle should not be totally compressed even when at it’s (level) shortest, so as not to bind when level and at their shortest..and to center bearings in the spider gear and cage of the two CV joints on each axle.
Note B5 S4 parts are different lengths..probably because of B5 Flange depth/width.
OR!!!
Rebuild axles yourself and buy used 1.8L Audi axles for parts!!
OEM boots can be had for cheap on www.autohauzaz.com
or Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay.
Last edited by shurur2; 06-23-2017 at 10:18 AM.
06-23-2017, 01:41 PM
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Very awesome, thanks!
Unfortunate news for me... I started ordering the trans parts and then my clutch disc grenades... So now I need to take it to the shop to have the clutch done while I gather parts for this upgrade since this is currently my commuter. That being said and knowing how common the clutch disc fails it leads me to believe it's time to source a high strength racing clutch. (actually can't believe this, I've owned many manual cars and this is a first).
My biggest concern at the time is the axle, being about $600 it's a large investment for a non-race car. I'm also going to need the shifter and trans mount but I assume I can grab these from a similar year car to the 01E transmission.
Did you actually do this swap on a B6 3.0 Quattro? From the sound of things it seems so. I appreciate all of your input!
Unfortunate news for me... I started ordering the trans parts and then my clutch disc grenades... So now I need to take it to the shop to have the clutch done while I gather parts for this upgrade since this is currently my commuter. That being said and knowing how common the clutch disc fails it leads me to believe it's time to source a high strength racing clutch. (actually can't believe this, I've owned many manual cars and this is a first).
Let me know when you get to the axle part.
I was told I can get a brand new axle that fits but it's $600, I'm not going drag racing so if there is an appropriate stock axle I would vie for that.
I can give you the depth of my flanges and part numbers on them to contrast and compare.
And I think I have sussed out what the lengths need to be now and a source.
Here is my axle stuff for what it is worth:
My originals
uncompressed minus housing:
24.250” → 25.325” overall driver side (1.125”housing inside flange)
25.000” → 26.125” overall passenger side (1.125” housing inside flange)
compressed minus housing:
23.500” → 24.625” overall driver side (.75” compression)
24.250” → 24.375” passenger side (.75” compression)
2001 S4 appears to be best fit for 2001 A4 with 3.0 6MT.
Block is the same Iron vs AL, and transmission is the same.
The only difference may be the Flanges, or flange depth.
Yea I wonder about the flanges, my car has the ultrasport package and was told it is basically an S-line with these upgrades. That should mean it is lowered a bit. I noticed my exhaust tubes were factory notched near the rear axles, presumably to compensate for clearance. When I get by car back I'll take a closer look at the axles + flanges and take pics.
Measurements on A4 B6 with pinch bolt installed and axles out from inner flange bolt hole to outer bearing end:
What I am looking for on-line (usually compressed and overall):
24.625”
25.375”
Amazon:
GSP NCV23593 CV Axle Assembly (Front Driver Side)
Compressed Length is 24 3/16" (24.1875), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 33, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
GSP NCV23573 CV Axle Assembly (Front Passenger Side)
Compressed Length is 24 15/16" (24.9375), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 38, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
These are 7/16” (.4375) ~1/2” (.5) off of my desired (compressed and overall) measurements!
This seems “right,” because axle should not be totally compressed even when at it’s (level) shortest, so as not to bind when level and at their shortest..and to center bearings in the spider gear and cage of the two CV joints on each axle.
Note B5 S4 parts are different lengths..probably because of B5 Flange depth/width.
I'm thinking of trying to stick close to B6 parts as this is uncharted water with stirred up mud at this time. I agree with your thinking on the length measurements, definitely want them to have some play without binding. Probably could measure the play on the axles currently installed to get some idea of what tolerance is in there. I'll go check the PickNPull to see what is available. I actually go to RockAuto for most of the parts, many parts are OEM too.
OR!!!
Rebuild axles yourself and buy used 1.8L Audi axles for parts!!
OEM boots can be had for cheap on www.autohauzaz.com
or Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay.
I was told I can get a brand new axle that fits but it's $600, I'm not going drag racing so if there is an appropriate stock axle I would vie for that.
I can give you the depth of my flanges and part numbers on them to contrast and compare.
And I think I have sussed out what the lengths need to be now and a source.
Here is my axle stuff for what it is worth:
My originals
uncompressed minus housing:
24.250” → 25.325” overall driver side (1.125”housing inside flange)
25.000” → 26.125” overall passenger side (1.125” housing inside flange)
compressed minus housing:
23.500” → 24.625” overall driver side (.75” compression)
24.250” → 24.375” passenger side (.75” compression)
2001 S4 appears to be best fit for 2001 A4 with 3.0 6MT.
Block is the same Iron vs AL, and transmission is the same.
The only difference may be the Flanges, or flange depth.
Yea I wonder about the flanges, my car has the ultrasport package and was told it is basically an S-line with these upgrades. That should mean it is lowered a bit. I noticed my exhaust tubes were factory notched near the rear axles, presumably to compensate for clearance. When I get by car back I'll take a closer look at the axles + flanges and take pics.
Measurements on A4 B6 with pinch bolt installed and axles out from inner flange bolt hole to outer bearing end:
What I am looking for on-line (usually compressed and overall):
24.625”
25.375”
Amazon:
GSP NCV23593 CV Axle Assembly (Front Driver Side)
Compressed Length is 24 3/16" (24.1875), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 33, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
GSP NCV23573 CV Axle Assembly (Front Passenger Side)
Compressed Length is 24 15/16" (24.9375), Outboard Joint Spline Count is 38, Inboard Joint Type is Bolt On, ABS Count is 45, ABS Style is Window
These are 7/16” (.4375) ~1/2” (.5) off of my desired (compressed and overall) measurements!
This seems “right,” because axle should not be totally compressed even when at it’s (level) shortest, so as not to bind when level and at their shortest..and to center bearings in the spider gear and cage of the two CV joints on each axle.
Note B5 S4 parts are different lengths..probably because of B5 Flange depth/width.
I'm thinking of trying to stick close to B6 parts as this is uncharted water with stirred up mud at this time. I agree with your thinking on the length measurements, definitely want them to have some play without binding. Probably could measure the play on the axles currently installed to get some idea of what tolerance is in there. I'll go check the PickNPull to see what is available. I actually go to RockAuto for most of the parts, many parts are OEM too.
OR!!!
Rebuild axles yourself and buy used 1.8L Audi axles for parts!!
OEM boots can be had for cheap on www.autohauzaz.com
or Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay.
My biggest concern at the time is the axle, being about $600 it's a large investment for a non-race car. I'm also going to need the shifter and trans mount but I assume I can grab these from a similar year car to the 01E transmission.
Did you actually do this swap on a B6 3.0 Quattro? From the sound of things it seems so. I appreciate all of your input!
06-24-2017, 06:41 AM
#4
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Very awesome, thanks!
Unfortunate news for me... I started ordering the trans parts and then my clutch disc grenades... So now I need to take it to the shop to have the clutch done while I gather parts for this upgrade since this is currently my commuter. That being said and knowing how common the clutch disc fails it leads me to believe it's time to source a high strength racing clutch. (actually can't believe this, I've owned many manual cars and this is a first).
My biggest concern at the time is the axle, being about $600 it's a large investment for a non-race car. I'm also going to need the shifter and trans mount but I assume I can grab these from a similar year car to the 01E transmission.
Did you actually do this swap on a B6 3.0 Quattro? From the sound of things it seems so. I appreciate all of your input!
Unfortunate news for me... I started ordering the trans parts and then my clutch disc grenades... So now I need to take it to the shop to have the clutch done while I gather parts for this upgrade since this is currently my commuter. That being said and knowing how common the clutch disc fails it leads me to believe it's time to source a high strength racing clutch. (actually can't believe this, I've owned many manual cars and this is a first).
My biggest concern at the time is the axle, being about $600 it's a large investment for a non-race car. I'm also going to need the shifter and trans mount but I assume I can grab these from a similar year car to the 01E transmission.
Did you actually do this swap on a B6 3.0 Quattro? From the sound of things it seems so. I appreciate all of your input!
I was just having axle replacement problems and had to research it my self as I got axles that were supposed to fit, but were too short.
I bought my car with 130k and got 187k total out of my clutch.
I am the second owner.
The OEM dual mass clutch has mixed reviews.
I just replaced mine with OEM (Luk?) from 034, but I Have no HP plans for Gretchen.
You already know cars and are well on your way to becoming one of the go-to guys on these forums.
Audis are very technical cars and draw folks who think like that...We can't help ourselves...It is a love-hate thing.
Sometimes i think that I am happiest when my car is broken...
Last edited by shurur2; 06-24-2017 at 06:58 AM.
06-24-2017, 08:55 AM
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The lengths are a great help, I'm figuring I'll check what I have, see which year 01E I can get my hands on and carry on from there, hopefully there's no significant variation on them dimensionally.
The clutch looks like it had been ridden quite a bit by the previous owner, flex plate was all burned so it smoked... all bad. I figured I'd get a Valeo for a quick change for now and research a tougher clutch since the hills here can be abusive. Luk clutches were the cheapest of all I found as a kit, led me to wonder about the quality. I noticed that a number of parts are Valeo and I have used Valeo on my other cars with great success.
Will look into the dual mass flywheel, that's a bit further along and I'm not racing either.
Thanks, yea I like to have a car that when I repair it I can be rewarded with it lasting and enjoying the ride. I'm optimistic that this is going to be far better than the Jaguar I owned where much of what I replaced simply failed again due to design issues and the performance was no greater than a ::meh::. Had the car 2 months and so far this car has been great with only moderate anti-serviceman layout. I rather look at working on cars as solving a puzzle, it's fun and sometimes takes some creativity. Of course it's the biggest reward to find a new method that can save someone else time =).
The clutch looks like it had been ridden quite a bit by the previous owner, flex plate was all burned so it smoked... all bad. I figured I'd get a Valeo for a quick change for now and research a tougher clutch since the hills here can be abusive. Luk clutches were the cheapest of all I found as a kit, led me to wonder about the quality. I noticed that a number of parts are Valeo and I have used Valeo on my other cars with great success.
Will look into the dual mass flywheel, that's a bit further along and I'm not racing either.
Thanks, yea I like to have a car that when I repair it I can be rewarded with it lasting and enjoying the ride. I'm optimistic that this is going to be far better than the Jaguar I owned where much of what I replaced simply failed again due to design issues and the performance was no greater than a ::meh::. Had the car 2 months and so far this car has been great with only moderate anti-serviceman layout. I rather look at working on cars as solving a puzzle, it's fun and sometimes takes some creativity. Of course it's the biggest reward to find a new method that can save someone else time =).
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