the senator

I dropped the car off at Rockville Audi yesterday at 4:30PM after the CEL has been on for weeks.

The car has had dramatic loss in power. VAG COM resulted in a DTC of 17535 (running RICH), each and every time.

After a series of clearing codes, the car would run excellent after clearing codes, and almost like clockwork, at about 70 miles after clearing, the 2nd lamdas would go back to the faulty -25%, and the CEL/MIL would come on again. The car would lose its power each time the CEL came on. Not exactly limp mode, but close.

About a week back, i had to dremel out the screws to the MAF and clean it. I wanted to be sure it wasn't just a dirty MAF. So I got it out, cleaned the MAF with electrical cleaner. I knew that if it was merely dirty, that cleaning it may solve the problem. But if it was totally BROKEN by the point that I cleaned it, nothing would have changed. I cleaned the part, reinstalled it, and the codes came back.

The servoce advisor at Rockville had just informed me that the MAF was being replaced. They did not seem to have a problem that i dremeled the thing out to clean it. I explained that having to wait 2 - 3 weeks for the appt, i decided to take minor actions in the meanwhile to help prevent any further damage to what could lead to fouling out the CAT CONVERTER. I further explained that as a driver who drives a round trip voyage of over 150 to/from work daily, i didnt want to just "sit" on this problem for 1500-2000 miles. It was understood.

I am getting the car back today with a new MAF sensor. Hopefully, the car will not run rich anymore. Hopefully the CEL will stay off for at least one full gastank load.

As I stated to MidnightA4, once the AVG MPG counter on the dash starts reading normal numbers again (Since the problem started, i had readings of up to 45MPG (AVERAGE!)), I know the problem is most likely fixed.

Bot line, do not use a K&N filter in our cars. I only had it for 10K miles before this issue had risen. I had never oiled it myself. It was oiled by K&N's factory. This oil is strong enough in itself to foul a MAF. Hell, I never even intended on oiling it, i was merely going to pay $50 and get a new one every 50K miles!

Word to the wise, whether this current issue is the MAF or not, if you have a K&N, take it out, and clean what you DO have left of your MAF. It may just save it. Use proper electrical parts cleaner.

I relaize some may argue that they have XXX number miles and no problems......don't just take their words that I am full of ****, and that I must be a fluke. I am not anywhere NEAR the only case of this happening...a simple verification phone call to your delaer tech will back me up there.

I consider those who still have the K&N with no problems, the minority, and VERY LUCKY.

I will post later, after I have thecar back for the week, what happens.

Delphingrau3003_Rich

Hope for the best!

I had my '03 3.0 for two weeks (!) before the A/C puked all over itself. And the windhield had to be replaced after day one - stupid w/s wiper design!!!

Hopefully, I'll be picking mine up this Saturday, July 12. That will make it two weeks with, and two weeks without my car >

Drive safe.

Rich

the senator

wow, 50% of owenership was a loaner so far...anyway thanks a lot!

woofpup

My K&N filter had done something similar in my old VW VR6 engine, but I was never able to pinpoint it as the cause of the MAF sensor failure. The sensor failed after having the filter for about 5000 miles, and when the dealer took the K&N out (along with the failed MAF sensor), I couldn't help but notice that there were WHITE patches along the edges of the K&N filter where there had been pink (the filter was installed new and I never oiled it - it just had the original oil). The white patches indicated oil had in fact transferred off the cotton and presumably into the rest of the intake. Hmm...

ILMA_Revo_Stage_2+

Please let me know how you found the service to be at Rockville Porsche Audi. I bought my car there and around late Sept. I am taking it in for the 10K service. It'll be a year then.

achilleas101

when my compressor blew on my new 3.0 too. New compressor doing great though. Apparently it was a new design and they had to back order it. had to go a week w/o A/C.

Delphingrau3003_Rich

So what ended up happening? What had to be replaced on your car? And, was there a root cause identified? The techs at my dealer suspect the clutch in the compressor went...

Any other info you care to share?

Thanks.

Rich

woofpup

That's funny, considering the factory service manual mentions in a number of places that the AC compressor has no clutch and is always driven by the engine (it somehow internally varies load without using a clutch - perhaps however this is controlled is what they were actually referring to).

Example:
"With the engine running the compressor is always driven, the compressor has no A/C clutch . For this reason, the engine should only be started when the refrigerant circuit is completely and properly installed. For example; if the refrigerant lines are not connected, when the engine is running the compressor may heat up (via internal heat generation) until compressor damage occurs. The reason for internal heat generation is, the compressor operates with almost 0% pump capacity against permanent resistance (locked circuit)."

achilleas101

he was like "well, it didn't explode..more like... what's the word." I said, burst? He said yea, guess you could say that.

When looking at my service record, they had to flush out all kinds of crap cuz i guess it contaminated some lines/hoses i don't know what. They had to replace the compressor and some other device that i can't recall. They were all kind of dumbfounded that it happened. THey claimed that they'd never seen that happen.

achilleas101

but i do know that one belt controls the A/C - guessing its the timing belt hooked to the engine... not exacly a gear head here