VAG tool question. Hoping someone knows the answer.
#1
VAG tool question. Hoping someone knows the answer.
Funny how VAG says our coolant is lifetime and never needs to be changed. Coolant tested to 0<sup>o</sup>F at my 50K, so need to flush-n-fill.
Bentely procedure 19-11 shows:
- Screw adapter VAG 1274/8 onto coolant expansion tank.
- Fit special tool VAG 1274/10 onto adapter.
- Fill cooling system with coolant.
Anyone know what purpose tool 1274/10 serves? Is it just a glorified spout/funnel?
TIA
Bentely procedure 19-11 shows:
- Screw adapter VAG 1274/8 onto coolant expansion tank.
- Fit special tool VAG 1274/10 onto adapter.
- Fill cooling system with coolant.
Anyone know what purpose tool 1274/10 serves? Is it just a glorified spout/funnel?
TIA
#4
I was trying to steer you AWAY from orginal Audi coolant. It's not specific, G-12's same as Dexcool
and it's bad, very bad. No oem makers use Dexcool/G-12/OAT coolants anymore. Audi switched to G-12 Plus. Gte that or Mercedes/Xerex G-05, that Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolanthas the longest successfull track record. DEX/OAT/G-12 will eat through rad seams, corrode waterpumps which siexe timing belts and destroy engines. If you are going to use G-12, might as well just buy generic Walmart coolant, same thing.
#6
Ahhh....I was clue'ing in to what you were saying! So if I make sure the dealer uses/sells G-12+ (m)
I'm in good shape? Thanks!
btw....you ever thought of changing your Audi handle to "Liquid Junkie"? Cuz you are Da Man on everything "liquid and viscous" that goes on our cars!
btw....you ever thought of changing your Audi handle to "Liquid Junkie"? Cuz you are Da Man on everything "liquid and viscous" that goes on our cars!
#7
if i'm not mistaken, coolant flush is pretty simple (more)
drain the coolant from the radiator coolant temp sensor, then plug that up, and fill the coolant tank with new fluid.
once full, run the car to normal operating temp, and then bleed out the air on the coolant cross pipe that goes across the engine.
anyone, please correct me if i'm wrong.
once full, run the car to normal operating temp, and then bleed out the air on the coolant cross pipe that goes across the engine.
anyone, please correct me if i'm wrong.
Trending Topics
#8
All oems are off of Dex/OAT/G-12 now. BMW, MB, Ford, Chrysler, John Deere all use G-05 Hybrid.
GM has moved off of their ugly stepchild, Dexcool. Audi/VW new coolant, G-12 Plus, I suppose is a lightly silicated Hybrid too. I can't keep up on everything, but will be looking at it. Japanese use high phosphate unsilicated and it seems to work. I used G-05 in my Audis new and old, plus my 1998 CRV. Unsilicated OAT coolant is very bad, lots of problems in GM, G-12 is the same stuff. Mercedes has the same coolant parts suppliers, but uses the Hybrid G-05 if that is any comfort, plus they have less system problems. MB actually has a sack of silicates in the coolant tank to replenish them. My shop is a BOSCH Center, I see more than just Audis. I learned fluids from having the 2nd B6 sold at my dealer (pre-ordered in Fall 2001) and 10k oil changes were coming on-line then so I promised the B6 guys I would go and learn everything. What I found is a lot of VERY smart people who like Tribology at Bobistheoilguy. There I am a middle-weight. How's that for a metaphor?<ul><li><a href="http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200408/ai_n9453107#continue">http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200408/ai_n9453107#continue</a</li></ul>
#9
You're the heavy-weight champ of liquids here on AW. Great article, thanks for the link.
My coolant knowledge just exponetially increased after that read -- it all is less brown (meaning muddy) and is more green, pink, orange or whatever coolant color you like I know now that "our" coolant ain't like our "Daddy's" coolant that they grew up with.
Would you have any insight on what happens to coolant when its sub-temp protection degrades as mine has? I'm thinking that when my radiator was replaced between 12-20K under warranty that the dealer did not do a full coolant exchange, and mixed old coolant with new coolant. Per the article....
"If you're replacing aluminum parts on an engine, such as a water pump or even a new cylinder head, remember that part's coolant passages have not been protected. In those cases you should perform a complete coolant exchange."
I would guess the radiator on the B6 1.8T holds no more than half, probably less, of the entire coolant system capacity. Possibly they mixed the old G-12 with the G-12+ equivalent -- need to check my paperwork for the date that warranty work happened.
Again, thanks for the info and the link. Your posts on AW are always informative for the rest of us.
Would you have any insight on what happens to coolant when its sub-temp protection degrades as mine has? I'm thinking that when my radiator was replaced between 12-20K under warranty that the dealer did not do a full coolant exchange, and mixed old coolant with new coolant. Per the article....
"If you're replacing aluminum parts on an engine, such as a water pump or even a new cylinder head, remember that part's coolant passages have not been protected. In those cases you should perform a complete coolant exchange."
I would guess the radiator on the B6 1.8T holds no more than half, probably less, of the entire coolant system capacity. Possibly they mixed the old G-12 with the G-12+ equivalent -- need to check my paperwork for the date that warranty work happened.
Again, thanks for the info and the link. Your posts on AW are always informative for the rest of us.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post