relative78

Hi all -

I have a 2006 A4 Avant 3.2L S-line that has a CEL showing p2004 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open - Bank 1.

I've seen a bunch of posts about this on these forums and others, and they all pretty much say the same things. I've tried to follow the suggestions others have made and have made some assumptions of my own. Please let me know if any of them are wrong. The Bentley book's diagrams for this engine are pretty awful, so it's tough to tell if I've found bank 1 or bank 2 sometimes.

The most common seems to be broken or leaking vacuum lines. When I first started trying to diagnose this, I found a vacuum line that came apart in my hand and replaced it with a silicone version. I cleared the code, went through the readiness routine, and the code came back shortly afterwards. Since then, I've visually inspected the vacuum lines a bunch of times and tested with a vacuum pump both under pressure and as a gauge of what the vacuum is doing while the engine is running. I've tested the vacuum lines leading to every vacuum component I can find both in front of and behind the engine. They all respond as I'd expect, with some constantly holding a vacuum and others responding when I rev the engine, which is what I assume the imrc valve is supposed to do. There doesn't appear to be any leakage or response when there shouldn't be.

After testing the vacuum lines, I started looking to see if the runner was actually moving. I removed the potentiometer on the front of the manifold and watched the mechanism actuate as I removed and reapplied the vacuum pressure. At this point, I figured it was just a bad sensor and ordered a new one, but the problem is still there. Looking at the parts diagrams I've found elsewhere, I'm not sure how to tell which parts control/sense bank 1 or bank 2.

I have seen the recall for the imrc motor on the 2.0L engine, and really wish it was going to be so easy.

If it still is a bad sensor, and I just happened to get a dud (they did credit back the charge without me even asking for it), does anyone have specs for the potentiometer that I can use my multimeter to test with?

I'm about out of ideas and I've spent so much time already trying to figure this out that I'd rather not give up now and take it into the shop.

Thanks!

-Jeff

Newbie123

Hi Relative 78,

Following in your footsteps only may have spent more time trying to figure out how NOT to replace the entire manifold.

Were you ever able to find a way to test the position sensor? If so, how?

What was the final fix and how do figure it out?

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Newbie