When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A4 B7 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump Valve Removal. Hard Fail!
I've run into my first DIY problem I'd like to get some advice on.
After doing some reserach on these forums regarding my B7 S-line, I decided to check the Cam Follower on the HIgh Pressure Fuel Pump. I ordered a replacement part after confirming that mine had never been specifically been checked, thinking that I should replace whatever is in there anyway. At $50, it was a no-brainer.
I watched all the Youtube videos I could on how the HPFP is removed and how to replace the part.
The trouble happened when I went to remove the test valve that sits in the way of the bottom bolt that holds the HPFP to the rest of the engine.
I gave a good hard crank with my 13mm wrench. The positing is a little awkward and it didn't dawn on me that I was coming from BEHIND the front of the valve. The end result is that I torqued the valve the wrong way and rounded the hex part of the valve.
Getting a little nervous, I started researching solutions to rounded hex nuts. There was a lot of advice against getting some kind of vise grips and squeezing the crap out of the valve. The solution that seemed to be most consistent was get a small pointed tool, like an awl or file and pound a small divot into the side of the hex bolt. Using a healthy angle, one would use a hammer to tap/torque the nut enough to loosen it.
I tried valiantly, but only ended up hacking up the (former) hex. Now I have a chewed up test valve and am no closer to removing the HPFP than I was when I started.
I also did a little more research and discovered the valve is a $10.00 part.
The HPFP is $300+. I prefer to replace just the valve
The way I see it is that I have a few options:
1. Use something like a Turbo Socket bit to try to get enough torque on the hex to loosen it.
2. If that fails I can try to Dremel through the valve altogether to gain access to the bottom bolt and remove the HPFP. Once it's off I can then attempt to use a bolt extractor to dig the remains of the valve out.
This option presents a new challenge: I would completely expect sparks to fly (literally) if I cut off the valve. We are talking about the FUEL pump here, and I am extremely nervous about that. Am I paranoid, or just exercising common sense?
3. If THAT fails, I would have to replace the HPFP altogether.
Appreciate ANY help here. I am nominating myself for N00b of the year here....
The first image is from a VW, but still the 2.0T FSI
The hex is rounded to hell and I can't get any sort of grip on it
The valve looks like it's made of brass, so no sparks would be generated but you might want to have a fire extinguisher handy for safety.
Also, make sure you have the replacement valve before you try this.
I would drill a hole right through side of the main hex part with as large a drill bit as is feasible. There may be some heat so drill slowly and use oil.
Insert a grade 8 quality bolt of the appropriate size into the hole and using it as a lever, turn the valve body CCW to remove it. The install torque is maybe only 18 to 25 ftlbs, so you should be able to easily remove it.
Unfortunately, the Bentley Book of Audi is silent on the actual torque value so I am going by the fuel line values.
You must learn the ways of the Vise Grip. Only with proper training can you master its ways, without causing collateral damage. Be one with the Vise Grip, let its power flow through you, but also learn to control its actions. You shall know the feeling of a proper grip, and the line between mastery Visery, and total destruction.
Seriously, if you're going to replace it, just squeeze the crap out of it and crank it out of there. Use REAL Vise Grip brand Vise Grips. Apply PB Blaster before you go to the store to buy real Vise Grips, then apply more after you get back. She'll come out.
I just had my encounter with the HPFP last week. I broke the low pressure fitting on the vice and had to drill it out with minimal damage. I learned not to use my full weight when tightening. A little past hand tight seemed to work after I got a new one.
With regards to your situation, it looks like you have stripped the hell out of the shrader valve. Can you remove the torx bolt behind the shrader valve? If I were in this situation, I would take the car to someone who has cutting tools and cut it off so you can take off the HPFP, then I would drill it out. You may also need an extractor tool. Good luck.
I've run into my first DIY problem I'd like to get some advice on.
After doing some reserach on these forums regarding my B7 S-line, I decided to check the Cam Follower on the HIgh Pressure Fuel Pump. I ordered a replacement part after confirming that mine had never been specifically been checked, thinking that I should replace whatever is in there anyway. At $50, it was a no-brainer.
I watched all the Youtube videos I could on how the HPFP is removed and how to replace the part.
The trouble happened when I went to remove the test valve that sits in the way of the bottom bolt that holds the HPFP to the rest of the engine.
I gave a good hard crank with my 13mm wrench. The positing is a little awkward and it didn't dawn on me that I was coming from BEHIND the front of the valve. The end result is that I torqued the valve the wrong way and rounded the hex part of the valve.
Getting a little nervous, I started researching solutions to rounded hex nuts. There was a lot of advice against getting some kind of vise grips and squeezing the crap out of the valve. The solution that seemed to be most consistent was get a small pointed tool, like an awl or file and pound a small divot into the side of the hex bolt. Using a healthy angle, one would use a hammer to tap/torque the nut enough to loosen it.
I tried valiantly, but only ended up hacking up the (former) hex. Now I have a chewed up test valve and am no closer to removing the HPFP than I was when I started.
I also did a little more research and discovered the valve is a $10.00 part.
The HPFP is $300+. I prefer to replace just the valve
The way I see it is that I have a few options:
1. Use something like a Turbo Socket bit to try to get enough torque on the hex to loosen it.
2. If that fails I can try to Dremel through the valve altogether to gain access to the bottom bolt and remove the HPFP. Once it's off I can then attempt to use a bolt extractor to dig the remains of the valve out.
This option presents a new challenge: I would completely expect sparks to fly (literally) if I cut off the valve. We are talking about the FUEL pump here, and I am extremely nervous about that. Am I paranoid, or just exercising common sense?
3. If THAT fails, I would have to replace the HPFP altogether.
Appreciate ANY help here. I am nominating myself for N00b of the year here....
The first image is from a VW, but still the 2.0T FSI
The hex is rounded to hell and I can't get any sort of grip on it
Hi where did you get the brass fitting from, I'm struggling to find one
hi, i had the same problem but a little worse, i share pictures from how i resolved that issue, i bought a T30 screwdriver bit and i cut a half to fit betwen the torx head and upper valve, and whith an 1/4 wrench I could loosen it.
09-21-2015, 11:30 AM
A4 B7 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump Valve Removal. Hard Fail!
