kap1

Hi everyone,

I've done a lot of online reading about my issue and could use some expert advice pls. I have a 2006 2.0T, just nearing 12 years in service, mileage is just under 77K. No issues of any kind but went on a 3-week trip and on return notice many different leak stains on driveway. Looked under the hood and saw oil residue all along drivers side lower engine (sorry my tech knowledge is pretty basic). Took to an indy mechanic, he said there was oil leaking into the intercoooler hose pipe (the large rubber pipe leading from turbo on drivers side). He said most likely turbo seals failing, and replacing turbo is $2-3K. Since trade in value is only $4-5K, obviously bad news. He said no way to know how long this was happening, but when I was driving daily the oil would evaporate in the air, so first noticed when car was parked and idle for 3 weeks.

Again, no driving issues of any kind, no white smoke from tailpipe, not shifting issues. Only issue is vibrations in park or reverse, for a year or two now, worse in winter easier in summer. The tech examined while I accelerated in park and confirmed that, as I thought, engine mounts are loose. So, no issues related to the oil leak. Also, while I drive low miles mostly local, I haven't noticed any oil consumption issue (and I've never gotten a low oil pressure warning).

I called dealer and they said there was a warranty extension on PCV to 10K/120K miles, and since my miles are low they would ask AOA for some goodwill. But I don't want to pay $130 diagnostic fee to be told the indy was right I need to replace the turbo.

Last point. I read something about trying to unscrew oil filler cap while engine is running, and if you can't it means PCV is bad. I was able to unscrew it but there was air pressure pulling it down. Not sure if any significance in that, but it certainly was not difficult or impossible to lift it up, just had to pull against some air pressure.

My questions are:

1) Is there any way to tell if issue is PCV vs. Turbo seals ?

2) If its the turbo and I just ignore it, what is likely worst case scenario ? slow degradation of power or can the motor just quit one day ? I'd like to keep the car for as long as I can but will probably trade it next time I get a mandatory big repair, which this may be.

Thanks so much for any advice.

Antione Crawford

1) If you don't own a GOOD pressure test system which the lowest price range I'd recommend is $200 and up (worth its weight in gold), then you can use cigarette smoke if you smoke, or a non-nicotine vale pen if you don't (one of my younger coworkers do that and it works surprisingly well with the amount of visible vapor it produces. Just blow some into the corresponding lines and look for any leaks (old school trick, but works). Works for checking seal leakage as well with a flashlight in combination.

2) You're not too far off from typical mileage to where seals and everything else start to go bad, so now's NOT the time to go cheap on it when it comes to seal replacement or annual maintenance lol. Not too far from now, you will get the dreaded P0299 code I believe it is which I when your hopefully diverter valve goes bad, or worse case your waistgate actuator becomes loose externally and internally within the turbo which requires turbo replacement. Just don't "ignore" anything and replace the seals if you never have before lol. Take care of it with re-seals which everyone has to do at one point or another and maybe look into installing aftermarket lines to avoid future leakage and you'll be able to squeeze out far more miles than you would by ignoring issues.

Because with turbos, one small overlook of maintenance on any of its parts can quickly lead yo the whole turbo crapping out and requiring replacement.

Antione Crawford

And if you just replace the turbo yourself if it comes down to that, you can save yourself $1000-$1500.

maverick17036

Oil leak along with vibrations in park/reverse. Sounds like the typical vacuum pump leak to me. Put a mirror behind there and see if oil is saturated around the bottom half of the vacuum pump. With a flashlight, check the hoses and everything underneath the vacuum pump to see if oil caked up. If so, replacing vacuum pump is a easy DIY.