zimflux

2007 a4 2.0

Car is very sluggish
-replaced with new stock DV (06H145710D)

I loged using OBDeleven, but its stayed stuck on "generating csv". Will work with them to figure out why.

Attached is a screenshot. I am doubtful the PSI label is accurate.

I assume I have a leak somewhere. Does the N75 valve seems to be working as it should?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

zimflux

In thinking about this more...

What device is measuring the "boost pressure before throttle valve"?

Antione Crawford

This is on a Turbo model right? If so, then if you have a P0299 code on, then you either have one of two issues (maybe both).

- A torn waist gate
- A VM bad diverter valve

You'll have to test these with a vacuum pressure test. Or just replace both parts if you're feeling lazy lol.

zimflux

Yes, its a turbo model (2.0) and the DV was replaced. Can you replace the wastegate?

Antione Crawford

As a last resort before replacing the turbo, you'll want to check for any leaks in the boost pressure system all the way from the turbo charger back to the throttle body. If you don't have a pressure test system, you can go old school and find something that produces smoke (cigarette or vape stick) and blow it into lines to check for any holes. If there are no leaks then unless something's changed in the last 25 years, you'll have to replace the turbo as the waistgate on these models have been built into the turbo which is stupid but I believe is an effort to save space on the manufacturers behalf.

The part of the waistgate that is typically the culprit is the half inside the turbo which rattles and can't be fixed like the outside half of the actuator can with a anti-rattle clamp. After removing the turbo, you can judge for yourself whether it is just the outside of the actuator arm that is loose or whether the inside part of it in the turbo is loose as well. If just the outside, you can anti-rattle clamp it. But save for a new turbo since that one is on it's way out. If it's both sides, you need a new turbo. You should never have to pay $1500 for a new one as I've installed perfectly good ones that match OEM part number for near half the price and they've been solid for years. But if it's peace of mind and you don't feel comfortable with non-Audi/VW manufactured parts, then you're looking at about that. If you find a P/N for it, I could help do some research on best estimates and quotes. If you'd like to handle it alone then no offense taken I always recommend the ECS Tuning site, but always cross reference part reviews with other sources.

maverick17036

I had the same issue and I just replaced the N75, which fixed my problem. $60 brand new from the dealer. I would just knock that out quick before trying to do pressure test or anything else...

zimflux

Thank you.

​​​​did you just use worm clamps?