OCAudiGirl

My front pads and rotors needs replacing, dealer says. Light senor for pads has been on for a while, already hearing the squeak. Rotors have a nice lip on them already as well. Dealer wants $650, but my bro said he can do it himself, but is not sure if the rotors will be tricky as he is used to doing hondas... anyone have any imput on anything special with replacing the audi rotors? Or is it pretty cut and dry? Also, which brands are best, looking for not too pricey but i dont' want cheap ones either. Any imput would be helpful...thanks!

nickstock

...front rotors are held on by the wheel nuts and should come off the hubs pretty easy (after removing the front calipers obviously....they're held on by two bolts). It's a pretty simple job if your brother already has experience doing them on other cars. For the rotors are you looking to upgrade the brakes in any way? I replaced my fronts with some zimmerman cross-drilled rotors and replaced the pads with ATE. I also put some stainless steel brake lines on too, but I just like tinkering. Make sure you bleed the system well and use some good quality brake fluid.

Rotors will cost about 150-200 bucks and a set of front pads (with sensor)should run around 100 depending on what make you buy. Job should take a couple of hours tops..

HTH,

Nick

OCAudiGirl

Thanks for the help Not to interested in upgrading them right now, just want a good trustworhty brand...

RichAA

OCAudiGirl,

I've never replaced rotors, but I switch pads before and after track events. It's easy. You need a power bleeder with the right adapter for German cars (Porsche, BMW, Audi, and VW are all the same I think), a compression tool for the pistons, and a special tool if you do the rear brakes that compresses and turns at the same time, and a few regular tools. I buy from ECS Tuning and CDOC, but there are lots of sources. I would do a full bleed when you're done with good fluid. That should be done every two years anyway, and more if you track it.

vtracer20

take off wheel
two bolt hold the caliper, their the biggest ones take those off
take off caliper -- use metal wire to secure caliper
metal screw (cross bit) holds the rotor to hub
take off rotor
put new one on -- make sure you screw the screw back in

pads just pop out from caliper, you'll need a caliper tool that compresses the piston so the new pads will fit, once the piston is compress all the way in, pop the new pads just like the the ones ones.

You should be able to slide the caliper with new pads over the new rotor now. Screw the two bolts back on, trq to spec. Take some break cleaning solution to clean off the rotors of any oils or dirt that might of touch the surface.

I'm not sure about this process about bleeding the brakes but i thought if you dont unscrew the brake bleeder screw on the caliper then you dont have to bleed the brakes. if someone can post an answer to this pleas let me know.

Doing this shouldn't take more than a few hours if your taking your time and you'll save ALOT on labor if you do it yourself.

Breaking in new rotor + pads:

find a back road to do this so you dont stop traffic.

30-0
40-0
50-0 3 times

and you should be all set. If someone else wants to comment on this process please do so to help the OP out. Thanks

CharlesP

There should be no need to bleed the brake system as long as you don't introduce air into the system. Replacing pads and rotors will not introduce air into the system as you're not opening the system at all. Now, if you replaced lines/calipers, yes, you'd need to bleed the system.

greywolf1699

I am a machinist/engineer. What should I keep in mind if I want to drill my own rotors? Obvviously make sure the are no burs but as long as I keep a spiral/concentric patern I shouldnt have a problem?

RichAA

Everyone is right about not needing to bleed. I do it because when I change pads I already have the power bleeder on for overflow when I compress the pistons, all the wheels are off anyway, and I like doing it once a year. Didn't mean to imply it needs to be part of this procedure.

CharlesP

I would assume there's a certain distance between holes that needs to be implemented. You don't want to drill too close or the rotor could develop cracks.

No, what that distance is...I don't know

Actually, instead of drilling, how bout making slots?

otto5656

Hello,
I am looking to replace the pads and rotors on the front of my allroad (2001) I have the ebahn online repair manual and it says that I need to remove the two guide pine to get the caliper off the rotor.. My problem is that I do not see how to get them off. They are smooth walled so no socket will fit and the inside is smooth as well so no allen wrench or anything will fit either? Am I missing something? I have done breaks before and I usually would take the two bolts out but I have never seen this type before.