2010 A4 2.0T cam position sensor codes, could it be a bad timing belt tensioner??
11-08-2017, 11:43 AM
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2010 A4 2.0T cam position sensor codes, could it be a bad timing belt tensioner??
Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster. I use to own a 2002 Audi A6 2.7T and looked at these threads a lot, but usually could find an answer from reading other posts. But right now I'm stuck with not knowing what is exactly wrong with my new car 
The details with my car is that it's a 2010 audi A4 avant wagon 2.0t stock with 82k miles on it. I first purchased the car with 65k miles on it and haven't had much issues and I have changed the oil every 5-6k miles. I lived in Massachusetts when I got the car and moved to maine this year, so the car has seen one winter since ive had it. My wife commutes to work with it every day, I personally didn't drive it much the majority of the year. She would have to go through the city and partial highway and her driving is pretty aggressive. She wouldn't admit it, but im sure she is even worse when I'm not in the car with her.
Anyway, I first had the issue of a rough idle and sometimes had issues starting. got the codes P12A2: No DTC definiton found, and System Too lean at idle bank 1 : P2187. I found that it was the PCV valve diaphragm was ripped and air was getting sucked in through the diaphragm. My first sign that it was the PCV valve is I could barley lift the oil fill cap because there was so much suction being pulled on it. But I replaced the diaphragm and cleared the codes and the light went away. But when I take the oil fill cap off the car while it idles, air pushes out of the oil fill, which is normal to me, but it will rev up when I take it off and then drop back down. Not sure if that is common or an issue I need to look into.
But the big thing I'm worried about is The code I got this weekend and the issue I had leading upto it. I first had periods while driving (usually around 20 or 30mph) where I would be coasting and I would start to slowly push on the gas, just to maintain speed, and the engine would start sputtering, feeling like it was going to die or something, but I would just let off the gas and try again and it seemed to fix itself, but sometimes the ESP light would flash on for a coulpe seconds but would clear soon after.
Now the first red flag I had was a couple weeks ago when I was driving down a hill and the ESP light turned on and I was unable to accelerate. I pushed on the gas and the rpms didn't move, just stayed at idle speed. Luckily I was going downhill and there was a parking lot I could turn into, but right when I turned into the lot, at around 12 or 14 mph I think the engine shut off and I coasted to a stop. I parked the car, took the key out, waited a couple minutes, and tried to start it and it turned on with no problems and the ESP light turned off.
The following week, while just sitting in the car idling for a couple minutes the car just shut off on its own, not lights, just shut off. Took the key out and turned it back on with no issue.
So this weekend, while driving around for about a total of an hour or more, stopping a few times in between just shopping around, the car started to do the sputtering thing again while it was running, then the check engine light came on. I stopped at a shop and got it scanned and 2 codes came up. P0341 and p0343, camshaft position sensor codes.
So from what Ive read in the forums, people who have had this issue who have had somewhat similar symptoms and have tried replacing the sensor, but still have the issue and find out its an issue with the timing chain being loose from a bad tensioner
. I checked the wiring to the sensor and its getting the right voltage, just wanted to see if there was anymore input on the situation before I brought it to the dealership.
I purchased my car from a used car dealer and I got an extended warranty with it that should cover the possible cost of a timing chain replacement. But im also wondering if I should take my car to a dealership or a euro shop, there are a couple around Portsmouth, NH that have real good reviews, but I'm not sure if I would get more done through a dealership over a regular garage (assuming a dealership would add more parts/repairs to the qoute to make more from the claim) hope someone can point me in the right direction, thank you in advance
The details with my car is that it's a 2010 audi A4 avant wagon 2.0t stock with 82k miles on it. I first purchased the car with 65k miles on it and haven't had much issues and I have changed the oil every 5-6k miles. I lived in Massachusetts when I got the car and moved to maine this year, so the car has seen one winter since ive had it. My wife commutes to work with it every day, I personally didn't drive it much the majority of the year. She would have to go through the city and partial highway and her driving is pretty aggressive. She wouldn't admit it, but im sure she is even worse when I'm not in the car with her.
Anyway, I first had the issue of a rough idle and sometimes had issues starting. got the codes P12A2: No DTC definiton found, and System Too lean at idle bank 1 : P2187. I found that it was the PCV valve diaphragm was ripped and air was getting sucked in through the diaphragm. My first sign that it was the PCV valve is I could barley lift the oil fill cap because there was so much suction being pulled on it. But I replaced the diaphragm and cleared the codes and the light went away. But when I take the oil fill cap off the car while it idles, air pushes out of the oil fill, which is normal to me, but it will rev up when I take it off and then drop back down. Not sure if that is common or an issue I need to look into.
But the big thing I'm worried about is The code I got this weekend and the issue I had leading upto it. I first had periods while driving (usually around 20 or 30mph) where I would be coasting and I would start to slowly push on the gas, just to maintain speed, and the engine would start sputtering, feeling like it was going to die or something, but I would just let off the gas and try again and it seemed to fix itself, but sometimes the ESP light would flash on for a coulpe seconds but would clear soon after.
Now the first red flag I had was a couple weeks ago when I was driving down a hill and the ESP light turned on and I was unable to accelerate. I pushed on the gas and the rpms didn't move, just stayed at idle speed. Luckily I was going downhill and there was a parking lot I could turn into, but right when I turned into the lot, at around 12 or 14 mph I think the engine shut off and I coasted to a stop. I parked the car, took the key out, waited a couple minutes, and tried to start it and it turned on with no problems and the ESP light turned off.
The following week, while just sitting in the car idling for a couple minutes the car just shut off on its own, not lights, just shut off. Took the key out and turned it back on with no issue.
So this weekend, while driving around for about a total of an hour or more, stopping a few times in between just shopping around, the car started to do the sputtering thing again while it was running, then the check engine light came on. I stopped at a shop and got it scanned and 2 codes came up. P0341 and p0343, camshaft position sensor codes.
So from what Ive read in the forums, people who have had this issue who have had somewhat similar symptoms and have tried replacing the sensor, but still have the issue and find out its an issue with the timing chain being loose from a bad tensioner
. I checked the wiring to the sensor and its getting the right voltage, just wanted to see if there was anymore input on the situation before I brought it to the dealership. I purchased my car from a used car dealer and I got an extended warranty with it that should cover the possible cost of a timing chain replacement. But im also wondering if I should take my car to a dealership or a euro shop, there are a couple around Portsmouth, NH that have real good reviews, but I'm not sure if I would get more done through a dealership over a regular garage (assuming a dealership would add more parts/repairs to the qoute to make more from the claim) hope someone can point me in the right direction, thank you in advance
11-25-2018, 11:54 PM
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Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster. I use to own a 2002 Audi A6 2.7T and looked at these threads a lot, but usually could find an answer from reading other posts. But right now I'm stuck with not knowing what is exactly wrong with my new car
The details with my car is that it's a 2010 audi A4 avant wagon 2.0t stock with 82k miles on it. I first purchased the car with 65k miles on it and haven't had much issues and I have changed the oil every 5-6k miles. I lived in Massachusetts when I got the car and moved to maine this year, so the car has seen one winter since ive had it. My wife commutes to work with it every day, I personally didn't drive it much the majority of the year. She would have to go through the city and partial highway and her driving is pretty aggressive. She wouldn't admit it, but im sure she is even worse when I'm not in the car with her.
Anyway, I first had the issue of a rough idle and sometimes had issues starting. got the codes P12A2: No DTC definiton found, and System Too lean at idle bank 1 : P2187. I found that it was the PCV valve diaphragm was ripped and air was getting sucked in through the diaphragm. My first sign that it was the PCV valve is I could barley lift the oil fill cap because there was so much suction being pulled on it. But I replaced the diaphragm and cleared the codes and the light went away. But when I take the oil fill cap off the car while it idles, air pushes out of the oil fill, which is normal to me, but it will rev up when I take it off and then drop back down. Not sure if that is common or an issue I need to look into.
But the big thing I'm worried about is The code I got this weekend and the issue I had leading upto it. I first had periods while driving (usually around 20 or 30mph) where I would be coasting and I would start to slowly push on the gas, just to maintain speed, and the engine would start sputtering, feeling like it was going to die or something, but I would just let off the gas and try again and it seemed to fix itself, but sometimes the ESP light would flash on for a coulpe seconds but would clear soon after.
Now the first red flag I had was a couple weeks ago when I was driving down a hill and the ESP light turned on and I was unable to accelerate. I pushed on the gas and the rpms didn't move, just stayed at idle speed. Luckily I was going downhill and there was a parking lot I could turn into, but right when I turned into the lot, at around 12 or 14 mph I think the engine shut off and I coasted to a stop. I parked the car, took the key out, waited a couple minutes, and tried to start it and it turned on with no problems and the ESP light turned off.
The following week, while just sitting in the car idling for a couple minutes the car just shut off on its own, not lights, just shut off. Took the key out and turned it back on with no issue.
So this weekend, while driving around for about a total of an hour or more, stopping a few times in between just shopping around, the car started to do the sputtering thing again while it was running, then the check engine light came on. I stopped at a shop and got it scanned and 2 codes came up. P0341 and p0343, camshaft position sensor codes.
So from what Ive read in the forums, people who have had this issue who have had somewhat similar symptoms and have tried replacing the sensor, but still have the issue and find out its an issue with the timing chain being loose from a bad tensioner . I checked the wiring to the sensor and its getting the right voltage, just wanted to see if there was anymore input on the situation before I brought it to the dealership.
I purchased my car from a used car dealer and I got an extended warranty with it that should cover the possible cost of a timing chain replacement. But im also wondering if I should take my car to a dealership or a euro shop, there are a couple around Portsmouth, NH that have real good reviews, but I'm not sure if I would get more done through a dealership over a regular garage (assuming a dealership would add more parts/repairs to the qoute to make more from the claim) hope someone can point me in the right direction, thank you in advance
The details with my car is that it's a 2010 audi A4 avant wagon 2.0t stock with 82k miles on it. I first purchased the car with 65k miles on it and haven't had much issues and I have changed the oil every 5-6k miles. I lived in Massachusetts when I got the car and moved to maine this year, so the car has seen one winter since ive had it. My wife commutes to work with it every day, I personally didn't drive it much the majority of the year. She would have to go through the city and partial highway and her driving is pretty aggressive. She wouldn't admit it, but im sure she is even worse when I'm not in the car with her.
Anyway, I first had the issue of a rough idle and sometimes had issues starting. got the codes P12A2: No DTC definiton found, and System Too lean at idle bank 1 : P2187. I found that it was the PCV valve diaphragm was ripped and air was getting sucked in through the diaphragm. My first sign that it was the PCV valve is I could barley lift the oil fill cap because there was so much suction being pulled on it. But I replaced the diaphragm and cleared the codes and the light went away. But when I take the oil fill cap off the car while it idles, air pushes out of the oil fill, which is normal to me, but it will rev up when I take it off and then drop back down. Not sure if that is common or an issue I need to look into.
But the big thing I'm worried about is The code I got this weekend and the issue I had leading upto it. I first had periods while driving (usually around 20 or 30mph) where I would be coasting and I would start to slowly push on the gas, just to maintain speed, and the engine would start sputtering, feeling like it was going to die or something, but I would just let off the gas and try again and it seemed to fix itself, but sometimes the ESP light would flash on for a coulpe seconds but would clear soon after.
Now the first red flag I had was a couple weeks ago when I was driving down a hill and the ESP light turned on and I was unable to accelerate. I pushed on the gas and the rpms didn't move, just stayed at idle speed. Luckily I was going downhill and there was a parking lot I could turn into, but right when I turned into the lot, at around 12 or 14 mph I think the engine shut off and I coasted to a stop. I parked the car, took the key out, waited a couple minutes, and tried to start it and it turned on with no problems and the ESP light turned off.
The following week, while just sitting in the car idling for a couple minutes the car just shut off on its own, not lights, just shut off. Took the key out and turned it back on with no issue.
So this weekend, while driving around for about a total of an hour or more, stopping a few times in between just shopping around, the car started to do the sputtering thing again while it was running, then the check engine light came on. I stopped at a shop and got it scanned and 2 codes came up. P0341 and p0343, camshaft position sensor codes.
So from what Ive read in the forums, people who have had this issue who have had somewhat similar symptoms and have tried replacing the sensor, but still have the issue and find out its an issue with the timing chain being loose from a bad tensioner
. I checked the wiring to the sensor and its getting the right voltage, just wanted to see if there was anymore input on the situation before I brought it to the dealership.I purchased my car from a used car dealer and I got an extended warranty with it that should cover the possible cost of a timing chain replacement. But im also wondering if I should take my car to a dealership or a euro shop, there are a couple around Portsmouth, NH that have real good reviews, but I'm not sure if I would get more done through a dealership over a regular garage (assuming a dealership would add more parts/repairs to the qoute to make more from the claim) hope someone can point me in the right direction, thank you in advance
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