planekiller1

Here is the Tire spec, I hate them, they don't grip, squeal like mad, and don't hold air very well at all, next set will be good year with the nice lip on them as I don't want to chip a rim.

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So after driving on my DIY Cold air intake I'm in love with he turbo noise, yes it does have a trade off as if just driving around it makes an awful squealing noise. But the benefit for someone my age is running around and making all of the subby owners jealous or show off to some chicks while driving down South Beach here in Miami.

I also installed a P3 VIDI gauge set in the vent got it for a steal at just $300 with the unit installed in a vent retail is $650 if I remember right.

Also polished the rims and cleaned the tint finally was dying seeing the streaks from them putting it in. I seem to be cleaning it 3 times a week man white is a hard color to maintain.

With the VIDI I see 14.5-15.5 PSI so reading up I've seen people say stock is anywhere from 9PSI so 12PSI does this mean I'm not stock and actually have a tune? Just trying to figure out what is going on.

The intake temps are anywhere from 100-130F is this a normal number or is it high? To me it seems quite high.

The EGT while driving is usually 1450-1600 and cools to 950F when letting it cool once driving as I like to have fun and usually drive with some strife. So I let it cool down before shutting the car off. To ensure it lasts as I have no intention of ever giving this car up as I am now fully in love!!!

planekiller1

Setting up the 30 pin to lightning...
You need a small non cable 30pin to lightning adapter the cable version doesn't transfer audio or video (not that you need video) the mini one has the resistors needed to convert digital signal to analog signal that's why it doesn't work (newer phones are digital), then your going to want to get a lightning extension as the 30 pin extension is too thick.
I recommend these below as I have had success.

Adapter sold at Walmart $20 (sale $18)- This is the apple version too not a knock off.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/LIGHTNING...R-AME/46090750

Extension cable sold on Amazon $15

**This is the cheapest route, I like the cable more than bluetooth which I'm sure works in conjunction with the handsfree, but I just like the cable hard line to stereo a lot better plus it's 1/2 the price and for a broke college kid every saving helps. I extended the 30 pin cable myself with soldering and it's a pretty basic circuit in the housing.**

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Also I will be adding a forklift hitch later this month to tow my jetski, more reviewing and install pictures to come.
Here is the link to the U.S. made 2" block hitch (in my eyes a lot more cost effective than ordering from the UK 'pfjones').

$260+shipping and not $600-800 from the U.K.+shipping.

Torklift Central | Torklift Central | 2009-2016 Audi allroad EcoHitch

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Hitch got put on the back burner for now.
Installed a custom sub box that I glassed myself, sub is to big @10" with the small volume for I'll be down sizing to an 8" at some point, just not super important. Pictures attached.
It needs some modification to fit better as the fuse box on the floor there gets in the way a bit annoyingly. So I'll be pulling it to do that when I feel like I have the time school is kicking my butt so I'm focused on that for the rest of my semester.

I also bled the brakes and cleaned the inside of the rims as I was annoyed with all the cleaning I was having to do when it rained and came though the back to the front of the rim, bleeding was weird I used a vacuum pump setup and only got a small amount of fluid from the back right brake caliper and started getting tons of air, next time I'll use a pressure system that pushes and not pulls through, got a lot of horrid fluid son hopefully I did it alright for now.

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October 2017 Update:

So I've had my Avant for a little under a year and wow I'm in love the ZF8 is smooth and quick, but does have its issues at times usually during downshifts maybe adding a trans insert would help. So far on top of what I have already done is add a DV+ (probably the best mod ever) as this increased the boost held and holds it for longer throughout the RPM range it has also reduced the "squeal" that comes from the CAI under low load.

I've bought a VCDS cable and have been in the settings and am preparing to add a westfalia hitch the right way via new module and additional programming. This way the transmission and engine life are extended. I only plan on towing a single Jet ski throughout Southern Florida, but to add to this I also plan on adding an additional trans cooler, but I'm not sure if I should leave it plumed with the radiator or make it separate (also changing the fluid and filter at this point) and the addition of a bigger FMIC.

At this point I don't see any need for a tune as I want to make the stock setup last as long as possible. Although I really do want to do 2+, but this will have to wait a while.

Has anyone else added a hitch the the B8 A4 Avant that didn't have the module and added it in? I've been looking online for what long coding to change, but haven't seen a huge amount thus any help would be greatly appreciated. Any other mods I haven't thought of doing that would help with longevity are welcome.

Kurt.

added some cool codes I've found searching around these from audizine.
*************
Removing Seatbelt Chime

[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Coding - 07]
[Long Coding Helper]
Click on each of the Byte numbers in step 3) and you'll see the selectable options below.
Uncheck the box for "Seatbelt Warning active"
[Do It!]

Enabling Gauge Test/Needle Sweep
This will sweep the gauge needles through their full range automatically when you start the engine.

[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Coding - 07]
[Long Coding Helper]
Click on each of the Byte numbers in step 3) and you'll see the selectable options below.
Check the box for "Gauge Test/Needle Sweep active"
[Do It!]

Enabling Lap Timer

[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Coding - 07]
[Long Coding Helper]
Click on each of the Byte numbers in step 3) and you'll see the selectable options below.
Check the box for "Lap Timer active"
[Do It!]

Operating Windows and Sunroof with Remote
(Note, the sunroof cannot be opened with the remote)
You need to continuously hold the remote button for the function to operate.

[Select]
[46 - Cent. Conv.]
[Coding - 07]
[Long Coding Helper]
Click on each of the Byte numbers in line 3) and you'll see the selectable options below.
Check the box for "Comfort Operation: Remote Control active"
[Transfer Coding]
[Do It!]

planekiller1

GFB DV+ Installed.
After spending a considerable amount of time trying to use the wrong hex key (on e on a 3/8 drive) I purchased an actual allen wrench set and this was possibly the easiest mod ever (minus some spilt blood). I'm not going to do a whole write up, but I'll post a few picks for those looking to do it themselves, not that this only requires removing the airbox and intake scoop located right above the radiator (simple removal 6 star screws and your done).
This increased my boost held considerably and a change in tone was noticed through my CAI that is much better and reduced the "squeal" that is common in this engine when using a CAI.
I realise my CAI looks like garbage, but until I get my hands on a Tig welder that I can use it works for me.

planekiller1

Quick little log plotted via VCDS this morning from cold start to operating temp before the installation of an aftermarket trans cooler inline.

planekiller1

So, this is my first post after being dormant for a while I apologize for that, but college studying Mechanical Engineering is taking its toll. First off Happy Holidays and New Year My Audi will be 6 this year!! I wanted to do a write up about a number of things that I’ve found very little info for. Such as the transmission service for a ZF 8HP-55 Differential services (including the transfer case) and adding an additional trans cooler.



I’ll start with the transmission service I’m at about 65K and my fluid was nasty like downright awful so this is highly recommended to get done before or as soon as practical. I bought the kit from ECS tuning which I’ll post after this along with all the other links to items I used during my work on the underside of the car.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aN...uuCMAwZ1Wnk3XC
This is the link for all of the pictures on my google drive. there are too many to upload to here. (Trust me I'm here to help not install some virus on your computer these are all pictures).


First off jack the car up and make sure it is as level as possible the diffs, Transfer case, and transmission all need to be level in order to get them to the right level after draining. I accomplished this on my driveway by using lots of front height and minimal rear height as it has quite a large slope see in pics later (I’ll get these in the best order I can according to the thread, but IDK how to embed them).



Next, you will need to remove the front cover like you’re doing an oil change (Hopefully you’ve at least done this yourself before starting a big project like this). Next, you’ll need to remove the cross brace (10mm needed for the steering rack line 17mm? needed for the brace it has a total of 6 large bolts (all of these are the same) and a little nut.) and at this point if you’re like me do the front diff and oil change. The front diff has a fill hole behind the plastic cover on the passenger side this is removed with a 10mm socket and usually can be done by hand if using a 6” extension as a screwdriver style holder. See images for location and access It uses an 8mm hex socket on a 6” + 3” extension with a regular sized 3/8” ratchet (bend the heat shield out of the way in order to get better access then bend back when complete). Always make sure before draining you can get the fill off as you’ll be in trouble if you cannot and have drained the fluid already. The drain if below and it uses a 5 or 6mm hex (sorry forgot the exact size, but it is one of these) I was just using a long Allen key, but a socket would allow you to torque it to spec I have a very good sense of torque by feel so I never bother torquing unless it is a stretch bolt (I snapped two of these on the trans pan so be cautious when we get to this). Drain into a pan and fill using a pump on top of some quality 75w-90 synthetic gear oil You’ll need a total of 4 quarts with about 900ml left over if done correctly.



Each diff takes about 1.1L the transfer case takes the least with only 900ml mine must have drained incorrectly as it only took in about 700ml, but my car wasn’t completely level and I can’t stress enough about the level of your vehicle before starting this, but I couldn’t raise the front any more than it was without risking my life. Next is the rear diff this is the same as the front, but this time the fill hole is on the driver’s side (make sure you can get this off first!!!). Repeat drain and refill using a pump and some gear oil mentioned above.



Now for the fun part, this took me 3-4 hours to complete the transmission fluid change and filter replacement. Start by getting a jack under the transfer case at the rear of the transmission behind the mount as we will be removing the mount to change the fluid in the transfer case and to get to three of the bolts holding the trans pan on. First, start by adding in that jack but a block of wood so the weight isn’t on steel to steel. Then jack slowly till the trans is supported, but not so much that you the pushing the trans up this is a sure way to murder the trans mount as the rubber is meant to be under compression, not tension. Remove the triple square in the middle of the mount then the three hex bolts then move onto the 4-large triple square bolts holding the bracket to the car, these shouldn’t be insanely tight as you are working with soft bolts and casings. Mine loosened with a simple 3/8” ratchet. I didn’t have any special triple squares just ones I think are meant for a drill anyway make sure to see my Next post with all the Hardware needed to complete this job. Okay onto the draining portion of the exchange. The hex is a 5mm in the pan and the ECS kit comes with a new one. Remove this and drain the pan fluid while it is draining loosen the surrounding star bolts holding on the pan leave 4 in the corners finger tight basically just enough to be able to loosen by hand. Okay so hardly any fluid is coming out now so reinstall the drain plug and prepare to lower the pan !!Caution it still has fluid in it so safety is a must get some eye protection!! Now with the drain nipped up hold the pan with one hand and loosen the 4 corner bolts (this is why we loosened till finger tight so none leaked out while it was draining, but also so we could loosen by hand now Once all have been unscrewed lower the pan with two hands unless you’re a waiter by trade and one handed is you cup of tea. I found it best to lower onto my stomach and lift over my head and place on the ground behind me like one of those British garbage bin trucks. Fluid will be pouring like rain from he11 form the mechatronics unit and filter, pull the filter straight down and it will remove with ease (working with a trans makes a mess no matter how prepared you are this is my second trans pan removal just not in this car ughhh). Okay with everything out of the way your nice and shiny mechatronics unit should show wipe this down with a clean microfiber (be prepared to throw this away once done) The mechatronics will leak till you put the pan back on so keep this in mind as you clean the pan and prepare the new filter. Personally, I clean the pan with a paper towel till almost dry and then dawn it up with soapy water to get it crystal clean then let it bake in the sun to dry out. Make sure to swap out the drain plug for the new one now so you don’t forget and then repeat the steps in reverse. My trans exchanged about 1 gallon +.5 quart, but I also removed the Cooler lines to add my external cooler (I’ll post about this in another write up).



For the pan, bolts make sure to use new ones these are stretch bolts and are aluminum the torque specs are 4nm + 45 deg. I snapped 2 of these and I can’t tell you how lucky I got by being able to remove the studs that remained once the head broke off. In their place, I put two old ones because it’s all I had and I have no leaks luckily. Work the pan in a cross pattern starting in the middle and working from front to rear in an X pattern. I think I have a pic to help with this that I’ll post. Next change the transfer case fluid I just used 75w-90 as reading up everyone said to use this. It was starting to age by color compared to the front and rear, but still not bad just remember it takes all of the torque regardless of asp kicking in. the fill is on the driver side again and the drain since the trans mount is removed is below same specs as the diffs. Now work backward and reinstall everything. Test the vehicle while it is on stands by holding the brake and !!With the wheels on!! Put the car into drive and slowly let off of the brake DO NOT accelerate only let off the brake for a second or two max and apple the brake again. (It is normal for the ABS to engage you also might need to put the selector in N to help stop the wheels I’d recommend this as a safe way to do it).



Put the car on the ground and you have completed literally all of the fluids except the coolant if you also want to do this there is a drain on the driver side bottom of the radiator. I’ll be doing mine at 100K changing out the reservoir as well as flipping the radiator and flushing it all out. Now that I have some free time I’ll continue doing write-ups in my blog for reference not only so I don’t forget when I’ve done something, but also to share with everyone else how to do things that I don’t find much info for.

planekiller1

Here is a picture of the transmission.