Changing spark plugs
#2
AudiWorld Member
You should have fine luck looking up just about any other 2.0T Audi engines and following those instructions -- they're all laid out SUPER similarly, so that should give you the information you need!
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Yeah, there's nothing unusual about doing plugs on the 4 cyl engine. The only tricky bit is un-doing the clip that holds the harness to each coil pack.
#5
Thank you so much Antsh. I just did the plugs in my 2017 A4 and that guide helped me since I wanted to be sure there were not any out of the norm procedures.
1) Removed engine cover
2) Undid the heated oxygen sensor connector seen in above, although probably enough clearance without
3) Removed the ground wires from the coil packs
4) Pulled back on the purple tab for all four connectors and gently dislodged each from the coil packs. They clicked and loosed with gentle force
5) Remove the bolts holding in each coil pack
6) Gently lifted the packs out of the spark plug "hole"
7) Used an extension with 5/8 spark plug wrench to remove and replace each
8) Tightened each plug to 22 lbs
I bought the set of 4 plugs from ECS tuning. Performed at 42k miles
1) Removed engine cover
2) Undid the heated oxygen sensor connector seen in above, although probably enough clearance without
3) Removed the ground wires from the coil packs
4) Pulled back on the purple tab for all four connectors and gently dislodged each from the coil packs. They clicked and loosed with gentle force
5) Remove the bolts holding in each coil pack
6) Gently lifted the packs out of the spark plug "hole"
7) Used an extension with 5/8 spark plug wrench to remove and replace each
8) Tightened each plug to 22 lbs
I bought the set of 4 plugs from ECS tuning. Performed at 42k miles
#6
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thank you so much Antsh. I just did the plugs in my 2017 A4 and that guide helped me since I wanted to be sure there were not any out of the norm procedures.
1) Removed engine cover
2) Undid the heated oxygen sensor connector seen in above, although probably enough clearance without
3) Removed the ground wires from the coil packs
4) Pulled back on the purple tab for all four connectors and gently dislodged each from the coil packs. They clicked and loosed with gentle force
5) Remove the bolts holding in each coil pack
6) Gently lifted the packs out of the spark plug "hole"
7) Used an extension with 5/8 spark plug wrench to remove and replace each
8) Tightened each plug to 22 lbs
I bought the set of 4 plugs from ECS tuning. Performed at 42k miles
1) Removed engine cover
2) Undid the heated oxygen sensor connector seen in above, although probably enough clearance without
3) Removed the ground wires from the coil packs
4) Pulled back on the purple tab for all four connectors and gently dislodged each from the coil packs. They clicked and loosed with gentle force
5) Remove the bolts holding in each coil pack
6) Gently lifted the packs out of the spark plug "hole"
7) Used an extension with 5/8 spark plug wrench to remove and replace each
8) Tightened each plug to 22 lbs
I bought the set of 4 plugs from ECS tuning. Performed at 42k miles
#7
Beware of free advice. The web is full of stories of broken Euro coil pack connectors (apparently the most common connector damage) and coil packs. As posted above there are specialty tools for the job. Unless you view repairs as hobby (not likely if you have to ask) you will never repay these relatively inexpensive tools against the cost of a garage job. If you damage something you will be forever behind.
If you must, try removing the coil connectors without horsing/forcing. I say this having done a lifetime of DIY US auto and Jap. motorbike repairs. The new cars particularly EU need specialized tools. You decide if I am a shill for dealers. What motivates people to offer bad advice? maybe in some cases with clean brand new engines you can remove these parts easily.
If you must, try removing the coil connectors without horsing/forcing. I say this having done a lifetime of DIY US auto and Jap. motorbike repairs. The new cars particularly EU need specialized tools. You decide if I am a shill for dealers. What motivates people to offer bad advice? maybe in some cases with clean brand new engines you can remove these parts easily.
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#8
#9
AudiWorld Member
Extremely easy to replace. Only tools I used was a 10mm socket for the coil packs and grounds, a spark plug socket for the plugs 5/8" and a small flat head to help with the covers over the coil plug connectors. Did not have to remove anything else because nothing was in the way that I couldn't just move slightly. Whole process took about 7 minutes.
1) Remove engine cover.
2) Unclipped cover that is covering the plugs for the coils themselves.
3) Unscrew 10mm nut holding ground wire, followed by 10mm nut/bolt assembly for the coil pack.
4) Lift up coil pack by hand. There will be some resistance, this is because it forms a tight seal and connection with the plug.
5) Remove spark plug with 5/8" spark plug socket. The socket has a piece inside of it designed to hold onto the plug for easy removal.
6) Install new plugs and reverse process to put everything back together. I'm not sure what the torque specs are exactly for the plugs, but after working in a shop for a long time I have always done it by feel.
I did notice some oil build up on the outside of the spark plug for the cylinder at the end back of the engine bay (possibly number 4 or 1, not sure what order they are in). I think it might be residual oil from when my dealer replaced my timing chain assembly for a rattle noise on start up. They did remove the valve cover to do some leak down testing, so that is probably where the oil came from. The whole was in no way full of oil. I will be checking it next time I do an oil change just to see if it is a leak that needs to be addressed.
1) Remove engine cover.
2) Unclipped cover that is covering the plugs for the coils themselves.
3) Unscrew 10mm nut holding ground wire, followed by 10mm nut/bolt assembly for the coil pack.
4) Lift up coil pack by hand. There will be some resistance, this is because it forms a tight seal and connection with the plug.
5) Remove spark plug with 5/8" spark plug socket. The socket has a piece inside of it designed to hold onto the plug for easy removal.
6) Install new plugs and reverse process to put everything back together. I'm not sure what the torque specs are exactly for the plugs, but after working in a shop for a long time I have always done it by feel.
I did notice some oil build up on the outside of the spark plug for the cylinder at the end back of the engine bay (possibly number 4 or 1, not sure what order they are in). I think it might be residual oil from when my dealer replaced my timing chain assembly for a rattle noise on start up. They did remove the valve cover to do some leak down testing, so that is probably where the oil came from. The whole was in no way full of oil. I will be checking it next time I do an oil change just to see if it is a leak that needs to be addressed.
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minmet (07-01-2019)
#10
AudiWorld Member
Great to hear that you guys didn’t use the coil removal tool - I’ve got my plugs sitting in the garage waiting to go in.
Did either of you check the gap prior to install (even though they are marketed as pre-gapped)? What about dielectric grease application on the coil packs prior to reinstall?
Any difference in acceleration that you can tell?
Did either of you check the gap prior to install (even though they are marketed as pre-gapped)? What about dielectric grease application on the coil packs prior to reinstall?
Any difference in acceleration that you can tell?