PLEASE READ: Soft Top Recall? Class-action suit?????
08-10-2009, 09:44 PM
#31
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solution for top problem
Hi...neebie here....Have a 03 cabriolet bought used but when I bought the car, it looks to have a very new looking top. The other day when washing the car, I noticed that the lower corner of the rear window separated...was quoted 2500 to repalce the top...ouch. I used to be a luxury yacht builder so I drew on my past experties and ended up using marine caulking/adhesive to solve me problem. I chosed a 3M product...5200 marine sealant in black....this stuff stick to anything but require a 48hr cure time, some prep work and some rigging. Finished up a week ago and looking good....if anyone is interested, I can post some instructions on how to go about it....in my opinion no matter what they use to glue up at the factory, the amount of stress at the corners when the top is raised will accelerate the ware.
just my 2 cents worth....thanks
just my 2 cents worth....thanks
08-12-2009, 07:03 PM
#32
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Like audi-fan, I am an '03 cabriolet owner with a ragtop that had been separating around the rear windshield. And like him, I came up with a successful method to fix the problem.
Unlike audi-fan, however, I am not a former luxury yacht builder, but a clumsy computer nerd. So I needed a solution that would work for even an incompetent bozo like me. Here it is.
First, I needed some way to clamp the separating fabric to the metal frame. The solution is magnets. I found out that you can buy dud magnets from Ace, or you can buy good ones, i.e. coated rectangular neodymium. I got a pair of these 2"x1"x.5" ones from K&J Magnetics: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08BR . (Be careful! These are strong!)
Next I needed a good glue that would hold up through the seasons. Gorilla Glue proved to be a loser. "Industrial adhesive" from Ace was also a loser. Black caulking goo required a caulking gun that I didn't have and was too scary for me.
The winning glue: Rhino Glue. It cures incredibly fast, and so far has held solid through one Arizona winter (yes, it gets down to freezing here) and one Arizona summer, with probably over a hundred top raising/lowering events through that time. I bought the big bottle, but really all I needed was the little half oz bottle.
Application was simple. Put one magnet inside the car, on the underside of the top frame. A little dab of glue between the fabric and the windshield. Snap the other magnet on top. Let it sit there (I generally allowed overnight, although I doubt that that duration was necessary.) Reapply at the next spot.
Your total cost should be $40 for the two magnets and $10 for the glue.
This is not to say that you shouldn't pursue class action suits, call your congressman, buy a new top for $3000, etc. - I don't want to rain on your parade. But if you just want to fix the thing for fifty bucks and get on with life, a4ragtop says check it out.
Unlike audi-fan, however, I am not a former luxury yacht builder, but a clumsy computer nerd. So I needed a solution that would work for even an incompetent bozo like me. Here it is.
First, I needed some way to clamp the separating fabric to the metal frame. The solution is magnets. I found out that you can buy dud magnets from Ace, or you can buy good ones, i.e. coated rectangular neodymium. I got a pair of these 2"x1"x.5" ones from K&J Magnetics: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08BR . (Be careful! These are strong!)
Next I needed a good glue that would hold up through the seasons. Gorilla Glue proved to be a loser. "Industrial adhesive" from Ace was also a loser. Black caulking goo required a caulking gun that I didn't have and was too scary for me.
The winning glue: Rhino Glue. It cures incredibly fast, and so far has held solid through one Arizona winter (yes, it gets down to freezing here) and one Arizona summer, with probably over a hundred top raising/lowering events through that time. I bought the big bottle, but really all I needed was the little half oz bottle.
Application was simple. Put one magnet inside the car, on the underside of the top frame. A little dab of glue between the fabric and the windshield. Snap the other magnet on top. Let it sit there (I generally allowed overnight, although I doubt that that duration was necessary.) Reapply at the next spot.
Your total cost should be $40 for the two magnets and $10 for the glue.
This is not to say that you shouldn't pursue class action suits, call your congressman, buy a new top for $3000, etc. - I don't want to rain on your parade. But if you just want to fix the thing for fifty bucks and get on with life, a4ragtop says check it out.
08-13-2009, 09:51 AM
#33
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Like audi-fan, I am an '03 cabriolet owner with a ragtop that had been separating around the rear windshield. And like him, I came up with a successful method to fix the problem.
Unlike audi-fan, however, I am not a former luxury yacht builder, but a clumsy computer nerd. So I needed a solution that would work for even an incompetent bozo like me. Here it is.
First, I needed some way to clamp the separating fabric to the metal frame. The solution is magnets. I found out that you can buy dud magnets from Ace, or you can buy good ones, i.e. coated rectangular neodymium. I got a pair of these 2"x1"x.5" ones from K&J Magnetics: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08BR . (Be careful! These are strong!)
Next I needed a good glue that would hold up through the seasons. Gorilla Glue proved to be a loser. "Industrial adhesive" from Ace was also a loser. Black caulking goo required a caulking gun that I didn't have and was too scary for me.
The winning glue: Rhino Glue. It cures incredibly fast, and so far has held solid through one Arizona winter (yes, it gets down to freezing here) and one Arizona summer, with probably over a hundred top raising/lowering events through that time. I bought the big bottle, but really all I needed was the little half oz bottle.
Application was simple. Put one magnet inside the car, on the underside of the top frame. A little dab of glue between the fabric and the windshield. Snap the other magnet on top. Let it sit there (I generally allowed overnight, although I doubt that that duration was necessary.) Reapply at the next spot.
Your total cost should be $40 for the two magnets and $10 for the glue.
This is not to say that you shouldn't pursue class action suits, call your congressman, buy a new top for $3000, etc. - I don't want to rain on your parade. But if you just want to fix the thing for fifty bucks and get on with life, a4ragtop says check it out.
Unlike audi-fan, however, I am not a former luxury yacht builder, but a clumsy computer nerd. So I needed a solution that would work for even an incompetent bozo like me. Here it is.
First, I needed some way to clamp the separating fabric to the metal frame. The solution is magnets. I found out that you can buy dud magnets from Ace, or you can buy good ones, i.e. coated rectangular neodymium. I got a pair of these 2"x1"x.5" ones from K&J Magnetics: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08BR . (Be careful! These are strong!)
Next I needed a good glue that would hold up through the seasons. Gorilla Glue proved to be a loser. "Industrial adhesive" from Ace was also a loser. Black caulking goo required a caulking gun that I didn't have and was too scary for me.
The winning glue: Rhino Glue. It cures incredibly fast, and so far has held solid through one Arizona winter (yes, it gets down to freezing here) and one Arizona summer, with probably over a hundred top raising/lowering events through that time. I bought the big bottle, but really all I needed was the little half oz bottle.
Application was simple. Put one magnet inside the car, on the underside of the top frame. A little dab of glue between the fabric and the windshield. Snap the other magnet on top. Let it sit there (I generally allowed overnight, although I doubt that that duration was necessary.) Reapply at the next spot.
Your total cost should be $40 for the two magnets and $10 for the glue.
This is not to say that you shouldn't pursue class action suits, call your congressman, buy a new top for $3000, etc. - I don't want to rain on your parade. But if you just want to fix the thing for fifty bucks and get on with life, a4ragtop says check it out.
Thanks for your input.
Mine was already replaced a while back, but I'll keep your tips near by for the inevitable. If you have a moment, pls log a complaint at nhtsa. Audi needs to come up w/ a better way to make tops. Period.
10-07-2009, 01:17 PM
#34
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I have tried "a4ragstops" method of magnets & rhino glue, so far the window is holding in nicely but I have yet to recline the roof which is obviously the key factor in deciding if the method works well or not.
I would be very interested in finding out more about Two sevens sunroof seal method. I would be willing to have ago at this myself if I could find out more on sunroof seals & exactly how they work. Any tips on getting technical info on sunroof seals anybody?? Cross sectional shape, length / circumference etc
I would be very interested in finding out more about Two sevens sunroof seal method. I would be willing to have ago at this myself if I could find out more on sunroof seals & exactly how they work. Any tips on getting technical info on sunroof seals anybody?? Cross sectional shape, length / circumference etc
10-16-2009, 01:54 PM
#35
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Hey Guys.....I am posting the method in which I repaired my top....I will do my best to make it as detail as possible and please read fully before embarking on repair since you have to pick up a few things....
First of all, go to your local marine supply store ( check local directory )...pick up small tube of 3M 5200 black marine sealent they should run about 10 bucks( if they don't have the small tubes you might be stuck buying the standard caulking tube size for about 18 bucks but unfortunetly once you open one, they are only good for 2 weeks......there is also the quick dry 4200 or you can also try sikaflex 291 ( I think ) in black also.....while there pick up some small mixing sticks and small container of acetone.
start by having the top in the closed position and open it just enough to take the pressure off the corners of the glass/cloth, using a small razor blade clean off any excesss glue residue. There is no need to clean it down to the glass since any small rough sufaces will be good for bonding.
Now, starting from where the glass/cloth already separated, try to pull some more of it apart using a firm but not excessive grip....that way you are heading off any future rips.
Clean and scrape again as required and now using a rag with a small amount of acetone in it, give it a good cleaning. Put top back in the closed position
note.....xaviexavie's idea of magnets sounds really good so if you like you can incorporate that in my method.
Next....park car under car port, garage or some place with overhange and prepare to leave it there for 48hrs.......
using painters masking tape tape off any area you don't want the glue on( paint, glass, cloth )....this stuff sticks to everything!!!!
You will need to buy, rent, steal, 2 glass suction cup and some light rope( the kind used to lift panels of glass or mirror, don't need the pro model....the 5 " ones will do ). Now.....it might sound like alot of work now but remember the 2500 dollar to replace the top!!!!
start by squeezing sealent in the area where glass/cloth is still attached....about a quarted inch bead is good....be careful since this stuff is semi-runny.....once you are done attach suction cup about 1-2" from corner to glass panel. Sling rope over beam, gurter, track or hole in roof/overhang and tie to suction cup making sure you are perpendicular to glass....now pull gently so glass and roof looks to be in original position before tear.....you should check glass positon before repair and notice how it sags....if you fix the roof without lifting the glass, it will look like **** when repaired....dry but ****.....
At this point you will notice black stuff oozing out....it's ok since you have painter tape right????? now you have to clean off the goo with out making a mess....take some heavy paper or old buisness card works great....fold it at 90 degrees and scoop out the ooz....toss out card....remember....it stick to everything ( if you get any on you, clean with small amount of acetone......note...it might not hurt to put some paper towel on the inside too to avoid drips.
You might have to scoope a couple of times but when it won't ooz anymore, carefully remove painters tape and lightly wipe with cloth and small amount of acetone......if you have magnets, now is the time to use theme...they will keep the joint/seal tight as they dry.....take your time....now do the other side....don't skip steps...you have one shot at this.....now wait at least 48 hrs.....yes the full 48 hours regardless of temp....remove all rigging and if you have to, use a small amount of sealent on the outside between piping and glass....it is now fixed...( fingers crossed )...make sure to dispose of acetone rags properly...since they are flamable!!!
Fixed my top 3 months ago.....heading to winter now, no problems so far.....
excuse gammar...english second language and all.....
if you are reading this and it is not in the posting section...please let me know....thanks...K
First of all, go to your local marine supply store ( check local directory )...pick up small tube of 3M 5200 black marine sealent they should run about 10 bucks( if they don't have the small tubes you might be stuck buying the standard caulking tube size for about 18 bucks but unfortunetly once you open one, they are only good for 2 weeks......there is also the quick dry 4200 or you can also try sikaflex 291 ( I think ) in black also.....while there pick up some small mixing sticks and small container of acetone.
start by having the top in the closed position and open it just enough to take the pressure off the corners of the glass/cloth, using a small razor blade clean off any excesss glue residue. There is no need to clean it down to the glass since any small rough sufaces will be good for bonding.
Now, starting from where the glass/cloth already separated, try to pull some more of it apart using a firm but not excessive grip....that way you are heading off any future rips.
Clean and scrape again as required and now using a rag with a small amount of acetone in it, give it a good cleaning. Put top back in the closed position
note.....xaviexavie's idea of magnets sounds really good so if you like you can incorporate that in my method.
Next....park car under car port, garage or some place with overhange and prepare to leave it there for 48hrs.......
using painters masking tape tape off any area you don't want the glue on( paint, glass, cloth )....this stuff sticks to everything!!!!
You will need to buy, rent, steal, 2 glass suction cup and some light rope( the kind used to lift panels of glass or mirror, don't need the pro model....the 5 " ones will do ). Now.....it might sound like alot of work now but remember the 2500 dollar to replace the top!!!!
start by squeezing sealent in the area where glass/cloth is still attached....about a quarted inch bead is good....be careful since this stuff is semi-runny.....once you are done attach suction cup about 1-2" from corner to glass panel. Sling rope over beam, gurter, track or hole in roof/overhang and tie to suction cup making sure you are perpendicular to glass....now pull gently so glass and roof looks to be in original position before tear.....you should check glass positon before repair and notice how it sags....if you fix the roof without lifting the glass, it will look like **** when repaired....dry but ****.....
At this point you will notice black stuff oozing out....it's ok since you have painter tape right????? now you have to clean off the goo with out making a mess....take some heavy paper or old buisness card works great....fold it at 90 degrees and scoop out the ooz....toss out card....remember....it stick to everything ( if you get any on you, clean with small amount of acetone......note...it might not hurt to put some paper towel on the inside too to avoid drips.
You might have to scoope a couple of times but when it won't ooz anymore, carefully remove painters tape and lightly wipe with cloth and small amount of acetone......if you have magnets, now is the time to use theme...they will keep the joint/seal tight as they dry.....take your time....now do the other side....don't skip steps...you have one shot at this.....now wait at least 48 hrs.....yes the full 48 hours regardless of temp....remove all rigging and if you have to, use a small amount of sealent on the outside between piping and glass....it is now fixed...( fingers crossed )...make sure to dispose of acetone rags properly...since they are flamable!!!
Fixed my top 3 months ago.....heading to winter now, no problems so far.....
excuse gammar...english second language and all.....
if you are reading this and it is not in the posting section...please let me know....thanks...K
11-28-2009, 02:00 PM
#36
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Like audi-fan, I am an '03 cabriolet owner with a ragtop that had been separating around the rear windshield. And like him, I came up with a successful method to fix the problem.
Unlike audi-fan, however, I am not a former luxury yacht builder, but a clumsy computer nerd. So I needed a solution that would work for even an incompetent bozo like me. Here it is.
First, I needed some way to clamp the separating fabric to the metal frame. The solution is magnets. I found out that you can buy dud magnets from Ace, or you can buy good ones, i.e. coated rectangular neodymium. I got a pair of these 2"x1"x.5" ones from K&J Magnetics: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08BR . (Be careful! These are strong!)
Next I needed a good glue that would hold up through the seasons. Gorilla Glue proved to be a loser. "Industrial adhesive" from Ace was also a loser. Black caulking goo required a caulking gun that I didn't have and was too scary for me.
The winning glue: Rhino Glue. It cures incredibly fast, and so far has held solid through one Arizona winter (yes, it gets down to freezing here) and one Arizona summer, with probably over a hundred top raising/lowering events through that time. I bought the big bottle, but really all I needed was the little half oz bottle.
Application was simple. Put one magnet inside the car, on the underside of the top frame. A little dab of glue between the fabric and the windshield. Snap the other magnet on top. Let it sit there (I generally allowed overnight, although I doubt that that duration was necessary.) Reapply at the next spot.
Your total cost should be $40 for the two magnets and $10 for the glue.
This is not to say that you shouldn't pursue class action suits, call your congressman, buy a new top for $3000, etc. - I don't want to rain on your parade. But if you just want to fix the thing for fifty bucks and get on with life, a4ragtop says check it out.
Unlike audi-fan, however, I am not a former luxury yacht builder, but a clumsy computer nerd. So I needed a solution that would work for even an incompetent bozo like me. Here it is.
First, I needed some way to clamp the separating fabric to the metal frame. The solution is magnets. I found out that you can buy dud magnets from Ace, or you can buy good ones, i.e. coated rectangular neodymium. I got a pair of these 2"x1"x.5" ones from K&J Magnetics: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08BR . (Be careful! These are strong!)
Next I needed a good glue that would hold up through the seasons. Gorilla Glue proved to be a loser. "Industrial adhesive" from Ace was also a loser. Black caulking goo required a caulking gun that I didn't have and was too scary for me.
The winning glue: Rhino Glue. It cures incredibly fast, and so far has held solid through one Arizona winter (yes, it gets down to freezing here) and one Arizona summer, with probably over a hundred top raising/lowering events through that time. I bought the big bottle, but really all I needed was the little half oz bottle.
Application was simple. Put one magnet inside the car, on the underside of the top frame. A little dab of glue between the fabric and the windshield. Snap the other magnet on top. Let it sit there (I generally allowed overnight, although I doubt that that duration was necessary.) Reapply at the next spot.
Your total cost should be $40 for the two magnets and $10 for the glue.
This is not to say that you shouldn't pursue class action suits, call your congressman, buy a new top for $3000, etc. - I don't want to rain on your parade. But if you just want to fix the thing for fifty bucks and get on with life, a4ragtop says check it out.
Thanks again.
11-30-2009, 06:57 AM
#37
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> I just wanted to post a quick reply to Thank a4ragtop for his detailed post.
> I too had the (dis)pleasure of seeing my rear window separate from the top on my
> '03 Cab. I followed his instructions and after about 2 months, I can report
> that it is holding up just fine.
Glad I could help! My top is still hanging in there after about a year now. I figure if I do get a little new separation, in a spot, it's easy enough for me to reapply the Rhino Glue + magnet.
Cheers,
A4ragtop
> I too had the (dis)pleasure of seeing my rear window separate from the top on my
> '03 Cab. I followed his instructions and after about 2 months, I can report
> that it is holding up just fine.
Glad I could help! My top is still hanging in there after about a year now. I figure if I do get a little new separation, in a spot, it's easy enough for me to reapply the Rhino Glue + magnet.
Cheers,
A4ragtop
12-27-2010, 03:42 PM
#38
Still a great fix!
Just found this thread, bought both the Rhino Glue and the magnets (wound up getting the rubber-coated ones, easier on the fingers) and worked like a charm. Great fix!
- M
- M
01-03-2011, 06:28 AM
#39
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Glad my tip could help! It's now been over a year and a half since I sealed my top with the Rhino Glue, and it's still holding. About a 2-inch gap has reopened at one spot, which'll be no big deal to reseal, once I get around to it.
Cheers,
A4ragtop
Cheers,
A4ragtop
07-31-2011, 07:17 PM
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I also found replacement OEM-quality tops with glass defroster rear windows from the manufacturer that supplies them to my insurance company for sale at $1000 per top, and the shop quoted ten hours labor. So, if anyone out there wants to get a new OEM top installed for less than 2K, let me know and I will pass along the info on the top - finding a shop is up to you, but it is a standard job any reputable convertible top/upholstery shop can handle. How Audi gets away with charging $6433 is beyond me.
www.idealisticdesign.com