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-   -   2012 A6 3.0T Starting Problem (https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-c7-platform-discussion-194/2012-a6-3-0t-starting-problem-2876422/)

dragpro 12-21-2014 08:58 PM

2012 A6 3.0T Starting Problem
 
Hi,
New to Audi's. I recently bought a 2012 Audi A6 3.0T from a private owner. The car had been sitting for a while, when I picked up the car, battery was dead. The owner, an older lady said, take it, replace the battery, if it still does not run, she'll refund me my money. So no worries, she lives a few blocks away, car was her ex husbands. Last she knows, it ran fine no problems.

Here is what is happening. The car powers up, all the electronics work (NAV, Radio, MMI, everything. The key unlocks, locks, and functions properly. When you attempt to start, it does not crank but makes a clicking noise that seems like it is coming from the passenger side engine bay. It sounds like a starter issue but car only has 32K miles. Fairly low for a starter failure but who knows. Is there any troubleshooting I can do before I spend a ton of money, that I may not be able to recoup if the car goes back to original owner?

I've read about positive terminal fuse can cause this fault if it blows. I heard that starter power wire can corrode, I've also heard these cars have immobilizers that prevent them from running after a long period of a sitting with a dead battery??

Is there any "reprogramming" or system relearning the car or computers need to do?

Any help or direction would be helpful. I may just end up hiring an indy audi tech in my area worse case scenario.

PS.
Pretty mechanically inclined so any suggestions difficult or not are welcome.

Thanks for reading

DirkM 12-22-2014 03:38 AM

A 2012 with 32k miles should still be under warranty, at least it would be in the US. Other than that I would get a VCDS cable (or go to an independent mechanic that has one) and scan for any faults.

zandym 12-22-2014 05:30 AM

I agree with AudiA4B6US.

If you are in the US, it should still be under warranty. Also Audi roadside assistance is included. Call Audi to have towed to the nearest dealer have them fix whatever for free!

dicktahoe 12-22-2014 07:06 AM

I assume you got a new battery--If not, that is the first thing to do. When you install the new battery make sure the terminals are nice and clean. What you are describing could certainly be corrosion on the terminals, but with a totally dead battery sitting there for months, I would not trust it. Corrosion on the terminals (maybe where you can't even see it) will permit all the electronics to work, but won't conduct enough current to operate the Starter motor.

NABS4 12-22-2014 07:13 AM

As already mentioned, it should still be under warranty. Was the battery replaced?

When a battery is close to being dead and you try to start the car, the clicking noise is the starter trying to engage but the battery not having enough juice to turnover the engine. Because the electronics require less draw than the starter, there is enough charge to run those components for a short time. Regardless, in this case Audi should look after it.

tenspeed 12-22-2014 08:06 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by dragpro (Post 24636994)
Is there any troubleshooting I can do before I spend a ton of money, that I may not be able to recoup if the car goes back to original owner?

PS.
Pretty mechanically inclined so any suggestions difficult or not are welcome.

Starters are pretty basic. Big wire from the battery, small wire from the ignition switch. Put a meter on the small wire and fire the ignition to see if the starter is getting the signal turn over. Even easier is to put your meter on the engine compartment positive post and see if the voltage drops.

Attachment 76730

dicktahoe 12-22-2014 02:15 PM


Originally Posted by dicktahoe (Post 24637110)
I assume you got a new battery--If not, that is the first thing to do. When you install the new battery make sure the terminals are nice and clean. What you are describing could certainly be corrosion on the terminals, but with a totally dead battery sitting there for months, I would not trust it. Corrosion on the terminals (maybe where you can't even see it) will permit all the electronics to work, but won't conduct enough current to operate the Starter motor.

Let's not make this too difficult. It is nearly 100% you have a battery problem. If you want to start the car then use a battery jumper with "+" (Red) connected to the post under the hood as shown by "tenspeed". About 6-inches toward the front of the car you will see another similar post--connect the "-" (Black) to that post. Then you should be able to start the car. I say again, if the car has been sitting for a long time with a dead battery I would replace it (the battery--not the car), so you don't find yourself stranded somewhere. Make sure you clean the outside and inside of the connectors well with a wire brush tool that is made for that purpose.

dragpro 12-22-2014 09:10 PM

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will give them a try tomorrow. For everyone asking about the battery, I did not replace the battery. I was in the process of doing so, took it to a local auto parts store, the tested it and said it just needed a charge. The CCA on it was 635 and the voltage was reading 11.5. I charged it with a smart charger at the house and voltage went up to 12.6, tried to start the car again, same results. The location of the battery and terminals look brand new, no corrosion or signs of dampness. I cleaned the terminals anyway with no results. Will take the advice given and hook it up to a multi meter to see if voltage drops significantly during starting attempt.
Thanks again, will keep this post updated until problem is resolved.

dragpro 12-22-2014 09:12 PM

PS, tried jumping it with an BMW M5 same results.

dicktahoe 12-23-2014 07:43 AM

I'm really trying to help, not beating a dead horse, so let's try a couple of things. As far as I know there are are only two main elements in the starting circuit, the Starter Solenoid and the the Starter motor. If you hear a "Clicking noise', that is the starter Solenoid operating, but it may not be conducting high-current to the starter motor. (Solenoid bad). If the solenoid is good and the starter motor is not turning over then a very high current will be drawn and the battery voltage will drop way down--probably below 7V. So put a jumper battery on the connections under the hood, connect your volt meter to those terminals, have someone try to start the car and you read the meter. If there is a big drop in voltage then the solenoid is good and the starter motor is bad, otherwise the solenoid is probably bad.


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