r1racer

Does it also say to replace the brake pad pins (front) and brake pad bots (rear)? Not talking about the carrier bolts at the 196nm. They are not removed on the rear.

tenspeed

You don't want to replace the front guide pins. I cross threaded one of my guide pins, repaired it with a thread file and die. When I was at the dealership, I was going to replace it until they said that one guide pin was $74. I found some on eBay for under $10 each.

My rear pads (ceramic Posi-quiet) came with hardware including a pair of rear guide pin bolts.

das2.7t

I went with the EBC Red Stuff pads (and the same EBC Sport Rotors you installed) and have been very pleased with the performance. Dust and squealing is gone and the Red Stuff pads definitely have more bite. Under very hard braking, you can feel the slots just a very little bit but that is expected. Also, with your windows down, you'll hear the dimples/slots a little at the pads trail over the surface of the rotors.

It's been a great +1 upgrade for less than OEM replacements. The techs at my local dealership love them too and say it's the setup they (privately) recommend if a car is off warranty and the owner is going to do their own work.

engleg

I got the brake wear indicator light on my dash a couple weeks ago. I changed out the rear pads and rotors tonight using my Vag-Com. Except for fighting a couple of things, everything went well.
After ending lining change mode with Vag-Com I hit the brake pedal a few times and activated the parking brakes a few times and the brake light went off and everything felt fine.

Now I have a parking brake warning light on my dash. It's the brake symbol with a 'P' in the center with a line through it. Wouldn't you know it I have a vacation scheduled in two days.
Does anyone know how to get rid of this indicator light? I tried going back into Vag-Com and initiating the start and end the lining modes again, but I only get an error message and nothing happens.

r1racer

The parking brake works? If so scan the car and see what codes are pulled and try clearing them and see if it comes back.

tenspeed

Pull the rear wheels and check the electrical connections for the parking brakes if you took them apart during the pad replacement.

engleg

Hey, thanks a lot guys. I feel really stupid and really old about now. I'm still a noob when it comes to a Vag-Com.
I ran a fault code session which said I had an open electrical circuit in the parking brake system.
Even though I was sure that I had hooked the parking brake wire connector back together I found it still unplugged.
Everything is working the way it should as far as I can tell. I'll take the car out later today and bed in the ceramic pads.

These technic's worked well for me on the rears:
After spraying and hitting on the rotor which seemed like forever, I placed the pointed end of a die bar in one of the cooling openings, pulling it towards me while smacking the rotor.
A few good hard wallops and it pops right off. (I know the rotor screw is still in, needed it to hold the rotor in place for the picture.)
I was able to retract the brake piston by removing the caliper and brake pads and then reinstalling the caliper (w/o pads) and inserting a die bar gently moving the piston back. It takes very little effort to move the piston.

tenspeed

I removed the guide bolts and used a pair of clamps to push the puck back into the caliper. Because I had my 45K service the week before, I had to remove brake fluid before retracting the pucks.



I removed the rotors by squirting penetrating oil in the stud holes and center hub, removing the caliper carrier and squirting oil on the hub from the inside. With both rear wheels off the ground, I could rotate the rotor while hitting it with a hammer on the outer edge. A couple rotations and it popped off.

Here's a shot of a pad wear sensor half way worn through

georgenyc

do you guys change your rotors every time you replace the pads? coming up on my first change @ 35k miles (rear brakes only), think i'll likely keep the rotors unless warped

tenspeed

I changed pads and rotors at 26K miles. The pads were low and I wanted slotted rotors. The OEM rotors had a ridge but probably could have remained. The new rear rotors are 22mm thick and are marked 20mm minimum thickness.



If you decide to change rear rotors, these are decent replacements - $94 each shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191889371693?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT