Easy way to shine A6?
#1
Easy way to shine A6?
Spring!!!
Can you experts share your tips to shine your A6? I'm no Ralph Macchio. I don't think I can do wax on & wax off all day. Looking for something like "pour this on the roof of your car on rainy day, then rain will do the rest" :-)
Thanks!
Can you experts share your tips to shine your A6? I'm no Ralph Macchio. I don't think I can do wax on & wax off all day. Looking for something like "pour this on the roof of your car on rainy day, then rain will do the rest" :-)
Thanks!
Last edited by kevinsong; 03-22-2014 at 12:59 PM.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Kev, are you in a position to send the car to a pro and permit them to do a permanent coating for you? You sound like an ideal candidate.
#3
Optimum Power Clean - tough spots like sap, tar, bugs, etc.
Optimum No-Rinse - Hose-free wash
Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer - Quick Detailer after washing
All you need are a few extra-thick micro fiber towels. These are nice http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...18/16-x-16-S1/
Detailed Image sells a well thought out package online which has these products, a bucket, towels etc and it's what I use. http://www.detailedimage.com/Pro-Kit...-Wax-Kit-P442/
No preference on where to shop for these, but this is just an example of what I have.
Here's my post from when I used Optimum after snow subsided:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...&postcount=628
If what you want is a full-on detail, then there's no easy way. It's at least a 4-step process:
Wash/Decontaminate (strips old wax in the process)
Clay
Polish
Wax/Sealant
The investment in the proper products and tools for this makes it ideal to pay a professional who can do a proper detail. Avoid people who do a 1-step polish/wax, as those hardly do the job on hard Audi paint, nor does the wax stand a chance of lasting longer than 2-3 months.
If you are going to do your own detail, then use something like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, then a clay bar, followed by Menzerna with an orbital buffer (Porter Cable 7424xp) OR P21s Paintwork Cleanser by hand to polish and remove scratches and swirls. Then use a decent wax like P21s or Chemical Guys Jetseal 109.
This will take several hours, so plan on 2 days over the weekend, and about 2 cases of beer.
Optimum No-Rinse - Hose-free wash
Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer - Quick Detailer after washing
All you need are a few extra-thick micro fiber towels. These are nice http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...18/16-x-16-S1/
Detailed Image sells a well thought out package online which has these products, a bucket, towels etc and it's what I use. http://www.detailedimage.com/Pro-Kit...-Wax-Kit-P442/
No preference on where to shop for these, but this is just an example of what I have.
Here's my post from when I used Optimum after snow subsided:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...&postcount=628
If what you want is a full-on detail, then there's no easy way. It's at least a 4-step process:
Wash/Decontaminate (strips old wax in the process)
Clay
Polish
Wax/Sealant
The investment in the proper products and tools for this makes it ideal to pay a professional who can do a proper detail. Avoid people who do a 1-step polish/wax, as those hardly do the job on hard Audi paint, nor does the wax stand a chance of lasting longer than 2-3 months.
If you are going to do your own detail, then use something like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, then a clay bar, followed by Menzerna with an orbital buffer (Porter Cable 7424xp) OR P21s Paintwork Cleanser by hand to polish and remove scratches and swirls. Then use a decent wax like P21s or Chemical Guys Jetseal 109.
This will take several hours, so plan on 2 days over the weekend, and about 2 cases of beer.
Last edited by in2dwww; 03-22-2014 at 01:23 PM.
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Optimum Opti-Coat permanent treatment (Pro version applied by an installer). Great shine with no waxing ever needed.
Otherwise, after washing, for an easy 30 minute application, Optimum Spray Wax and a couple of microfiber towels and you're good to go for 3 months. All of the Optimum products are top notch.
Otherwise, after washing, for an easy 30 minute application, Optimum Spray Wax and a couple of microfiber towels and you're good to go for 3 months. All of the Optimum products are top notch.
#5
Thanks for your kind replies!
uberwgn, my cut telling me I'm definitely in a position to send the car to a pro. The trick there is how can I make my wife think that I'm not spending enough money on A6.
in2dwww, You had me at "2 cases of beer". Sounds like "Optimum" is the brand I need to go with.
snagitseven, How is "Optimum Opti-Coat" working for you? I did a little research and found a local shop does that. Their site says it's $600. My A6 is 1 1/2 year old. Should I do that treatment now or try DIY with "Spray Wax" first and when it loose some shine go with permanent treatment? Is that treatment last a few years?
uberwgn, my cut telling me I'm definitely in a position to send the car to a pro. The trick there is how can I make my wife think that I'm not spending enough money on A6.
in2dwww, You had me at "2 cases of beer". Sounds like "Optimum" is the brand I need to go with.
snagitseven, How is "Optimum Opti-Coat" working for you? I did a little research and found a local shop does that. Their site says it's $600. My A6 is 1 1/2 year old. Should I do that treatment now or try DIY with "Spray Wax" first and when it loose some shine go with permanent treatment? Is that treatment last a few years?
#6
AudiWorld Super User
snagitseven, How is "Optimum Opti-Coat" working for you? I did a little research and found a local shop does that. Their site says it's $600. My A6 is 1 1/2 year old. Should I do that treatment now or try DIY with "Spray Wax" first and when it loose some shine go with permanent treatment? Is that treatment last a few years?
A couple of things to note. The installer Opti-Coat Pro is a thicker application than the DIY 2.0 consumer version. Also, once applied, the surface will seem to have a matte-like, resistance feel to it when you run your finger along the surface but will still have a very high gloss appearance. I've waxed over it to get the slippery feel back but it adds nothing to the shine and it doesn't last as long than if there was no Opti-Coat applied. This must be due to the repelling characteristics of the treated surface. In any case, waxing is really unnecessary.
$600 is high for a mid-sized sedan. Here in the Boston area, not known for it's low prices, the quotes I received were about $350-$450 to prep the paint and apply OC Pro to all of the painted surfaces including the wheels (I actually paid a discounted $300 since my installer did the film earlier). I guess it could be more if the paint was in poor shape and needed extra prep time. Shop around.
#7
Personally, I use Turtle Wax Ice Spray on wax. It's cheap, easy to apply, and leaves a great shine. I also go over the car with Meguiar's ultimate and a orbital once in a while. Here are some pics of my car after I washed and waxed it a week ago.
Last edited by snagitseven; 03-23-2014 at 02:40 PM.
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#10
The sooner, the better to best protect the finish before the elements and UV start to degrade the paint. My Opt-Coat Pro coupled with the Xpel Ultimate film are perhaps the best after-purchase investments I've ever made to a car. As I've reported before, the film with it's self-healing properties has avoided all rock chips and the Opti-Coat has kept the car looking like new with minimal maintenance. The Opti-Coat was done almost a year ago and has held up very well. Their claim of it lasting the lifetime of the car could very well be true. Even if it only lasted 5 years, it would be a good investment in time and longevity of the car's finish.
A couple of things to note. The installer Opti-Coat Pro is a thicker application than the DIY 2.0 consumer version. Also, once applied, the surface will seem to have a matte-like, resistance feel to it when you run your finger along the surface but will still have a very high gloss appearance. I've waxed over it to get the slippery feel back but it adds nothing to the shine and it doesn't last as long than if there was no Opti-Coat applied. This must be due to the repelling characteristics of the treated surface. In any case, waxing is really unnecessary.
$600 is high for a mid-sized sedan. Here in the Boston area, not known for it's low prices, the quotes I received were about $350-$450 to prep the paint and apply OC Pro to all of the painted surfaces including the wheels (I actually paid a discounted $300 since my installer did the film earlier). I guess it could be more if the paint was in poor shape and needed extra prep time. Shop around.
A couple of things to note. The installer Opti-Coat Pro is a thicker application than the DIY 2.0 consumer version. Also, once applied, the surface will seem to have a matte-like, resistance feel to it when you run your finger along the surface but will still have a very high gloss appearance. I've waxed over it to get the slippery feel back but it adds nothing to the shine and it doesn't last as long than if there was no Opti-Coat applied. This must be due to the repelling characteristics of the treated surface. In any case, waxing is really unnecessary.
$600 is high for a mid-sized sedan. Here in the Boston area, not known for it's low prices, the quotes I received were about $350-$450 to prep the paint and apply OC Pro to all of the painted surfaces including the wheels (I actually paid a discounted $300 since my installer did the film earlier). I guess it could be more if the paint was in poor shape and needed extra prep time. Shop around.