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Old 05-20-2019, 10:37 PM
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Default Engine mounts

Took my car to mechanic to fix error code P2753 in the process said my drivers side engine mount wasn’t in very good condition. Wanting about 650 to fix it... was wondering if anyone would know how to fix it at home with a link step by step or should I take it to mechanic?
Old 05-21-2019, 03:12 AM
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I can’t help on the fix, but I am wondering which engine you have and how many miles you got out of the motor mount.

Last edited by KevinGary; 05-21-2019 at 03:22 AM.
Old 05-21-2019, 06:00 AM
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Pretty common with the C7 platform. My A7 with about 150K miles had the problem, which was the 2nd time. I had them replaced with 034Motorsports solid mounts, which won't leak like stock. There's a how-to video floating around about the passenger side ( I think ), but the driver's side is harder. I had a mechanic do mine, and I'm glad, because with the previous replacement (I assume was done by Audi prior to my ownership), the mechanic cross-threaded a bolt, and he had to replace the mount bracket. To the additional tune of $900...
Old 05-21-2019, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SpectreGadget
Pretty common with the C7 platform. My A7 with about 150K miles had the problem, which was the 2nd time. I had them replaced with 034Motorsports solid mounts, which won't leak like stock. There's a how-to video floating around about the passenger side ( I think ), but the driver's side is harder. I had a mechanic do mine, and I'm glad, because with the previous replacement (I assume was done by Audi prior to my ownership), the mechanic cross-threaded a bolt, and he had to replace the mount bracket. To the additional tune of $900...
Hows the idle with those mounts?
Old 05-22-2019, 08:11 PM
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Just did mine a few weeks ago - both driver and passenger side. As mentioned above, there is a write-up for the passenger side, which I followed fairly closely. I have the repair manual PDF's, so I was able to figure out the driver's side from that. It is doable, but quite a pain. The oil cooler needs to be removed from the oil pan in order to make enough clearance to get the mount out. And if you remove the oil cooler, you need to replace the gasket between it and the oil pan when you're done. It follows that the best time to do this is when you're already changing your oil because it's coming out for sure! It still made a bit of a mess with the little bit left in the cooler. There are 4 bolts holding the cooler on which are very tricky to remove (and reinstall). I had a tiny ratchet with a hex socket for allen bits that helped, but I had to raise the engine slightly to get my hands in there... I didn't commit to it until I was sure I had the space to remove and reinstall all of them (because you're screwed if you can't get it fully reassembled). There's also a coolant pipe/bracket that needs to be moved around to help make room.... I really ought to make a write-up (I have pictures), but I've been super busy with work. Maybe soon. It was still worth it though - WAY cheaper than what the dealer quoted, and the idle is much smoother - almost hard to tell the engine is running. It hasn't felt like that for a couple years....

-Mark
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Dafried (04-04-2021)
Old 08-07-2020, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by a44mark
Just did mine a few weeks ago - both driver and passenger side. As mentioned above, there is a write-up for the passenger side, which I followed fairly closely. I have the repair manual PDF's, so I was able to figure out the driver's side from that. It is doable, but quite a pain. The oil cooler needs to be removed from the oil pan in order to make enough clearance to get the mount out. And if you remove the oil cooler, you need to replace the gasket between it and the oil pan when you're done. It follows that the best time to do this is when you're already changing your oil because it's coming out for sure! It still made a bit of a mess with the little bit left in the cooler. There are 4 bolts holding the cooler on which are very tricky to remove (and reinstall). I had a tiny ratchet with a hex socket for allen bits that helped, but I had to raise the engine slightly to get my hands in there... I didn't commit to it until I was sure I had the space to remove and reinstall all of them (because you're screwed if you can't get it fully reassembled). There's also a coolant pipe/bracket that needs to be moved around to help make room.... I really ought to make a write-up (I have pictures), but I've been super busy with work. Maybe soon. It was still worth it though - WAY cheaper than what the dealer quoted, and the idle is much smoother - almost hard to tell the engine is running. It hasn't felt like that for a couple years....

-Mark
Would you mind uploading the pictures you have for the driver's side mount? I already did my passenger side and found it really easy to do. I'm going to tackle the driver side in a thousand miles or so (when I do an oil change). I understand what needs to be done to change it, but it would be nice to see what's going on down there before I start it.
Old 08-08-2020, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mariccadonna
Would you mind uploading the pictures you have for the driver's side mount? I already did my passenger side and found it really easy to do. I'm going to tackle the driver side in a thousand miles or so (when I do an oil change). I understand what needs to be done to change it, but it would be nice to see what's going on down there before I start it.
+1 Would love to see the pics and any help on the driver's side. I need to do mine also. Idle at first start is a little rough. Particularly until the idle drops down after about 10-15 seconds. Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2021, 07:52 AM
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Add my name to the list of people looking for a write up and pix for the drivers side. I did my passenger side without much trouble, thanks to a write up.
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