VSS

I used a scanner and got a result for fuel pump circuit open. I believed it to be a fuel pump module and have ordered that module. Anyone know where exactly it is? It is not under the rear passenger bench seat or the cover for the fuel tank. I am searching everywhere for it and can't find it. This is an Audi A6 C7 from 2012. It is a 3.0t prestige and I just got it 2 weeks ago and got to drive it once before it wouldn't start. Thanks. Any help would be appreciated.

VSS

Update: It wasn't the fuel pump module. There's still no power to the fuel pump with a new module. FYI: The Fuel Pump Control module is between the plastic tank and the body. There are two Torx bolts visible under the rear passenger seat, next to the fuel pump. Remove rear seat by pulling up, pushing back then lifting away. There is a metal plate with three Philips screws. Underneath that silver colored plate is the access to the fuel pump. further back and towards the right rear wheel, you'll notice two black Torx screws screwed into the body underneath. Those hold the fuel pump control module to the body, sandwiched between the body and the plastic fuel tank. You'll need a Torx, not sure of size, but, it's small. there are two Torx screws holding the tray underneath. One close to the door, by the spot where the right rear jack pad is, and the other toward the rear axle. There are also two 10mm nuts. One is a stamped steel speed nut by the center of the car, towards the middle of the car, on the fuel tank strap going diagonally across the fuel tank. The other along the right rear door, forward of the Torx screw described before. Now that you've removed the tray, you'll need a 13mm socket, extension and ratchet to remove one fuel tank bolt by the right rear door. It's closer to the right wheel well. It clamps down a tab on the plastic fuel tank. Then there is the two inverted 12 point bolts holding the fuel tank strap. Completely remove the one close to the right rear wheel well and the other towards the front, center of the car must be unscrewed half way. Once completed, you can pull down the fuel tank somewhat, to gain access to the fuel pump control module and pull it out from between the body and tank. You'll probably have to push it towards the front of the vehicle to gain enough clearance to pull it out and remove the connector.

Replacing this module did not solve my issue, as I still have no power to the fuel pump itself. If your issue is with the Fuel Pump Control Module in an Audi A6 C7 model, well this is where it is and how you have to access it. I am awaiting the link to download the factory repair manual I just paid for on Factory Manuals. Hopefully, with the electrical schematic, I can begin to repair my vehicle and actually use it. I hope my write up here helps someone in the future. I am sorry I didn't take pics and write up a proper step by step. It was very cold and extremely windy after our Noreaster storm yesterday. I was in a hurry and was focused on repairing my vehicle, which sadly continues to not start. I'll post updates as they occur.

DanfZX14

Have you checked all the fuses yet?

VSS

Driver side has 3 rows. Row C in red is the front most row. Second fuse down, rated at 25 amps is the fuel pump fuse. It's good, as are all other fuses on either end of the dash, both driver and passenger sides.

VSS

So, here' the fix for my issue. Fuel pump was bad. Powering it directly did not cause it to work. It seems it was shorted internally. It caused the new fuel pump control module to short also. I could not get the code removed, meaning that the hard fault wouldn't pass the ecm check. The fuel pump needed to be replaced along with the new, now shorted fuel pump control module, before it reset the stored code. The code needs to be reset after repairs before it would be able to run and drive.

DB22

VSS

100% correct. That is the perfect explanation of exactly what happens in the scenario described to me by the young owner of the electrical shop I took my vehicle to. I also saw a box for a fuel pump relay in my trunk. I am now skeptical as to what the true cause might have been. It may have been as the owner described, or it may have been an opportunity to fleece me. Either way, I was not able to download my repair manual on time, and had no schematic with which to check the fuel lift pump circuit. The car is now currently at the detail shop getting the works, including the CQuartz ceramic treatment. I can't wait to have it back on the road. I am now gearing up for the APR stage 2 tune with the pulley, then the APR intake kit. Thanks for the clear explanation, and contributing to this thread. I sincerely hope this helps anyone in the future, if they encounter an issue similar to mine.

armourbl

If it were me, I'd drive the car a bit more to see if I discover any other gremlins before investing more in it with ceramic coat, tune, etc.

VSS

Well, it needed the detailing. It looked great before, but with the ceramic coat, I'd avoid the at least 4 times a year it would need wax. It didn't turn out too costly. As far as the upgrades, I'm planning on adding them a few months down the road, giving me some needed time to see if there's anything else that might creep up. You're absolutely right on, though. Fingers crossed!

armourbl

Mine was pretty clean, but still needed a detailing. I chose to do it myself and I'm happy with the results. No ceramic coat, just old fashioned (modern materials and methods) clay, cut, polish, wax. Took all day, but was worth it and cost me basically nothing since I already had all of the tools and products.

Good luck with the car. I'm still finger's crossed myself...