OBDII Code P2753 anyone?
#11
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have the same code . Went to the dealer and you not gonna believe how much they quote me 7500$ yes 7500$ . They claim that the fliud went from the valve thru the wires to the control module which is in the transmition , so the parts was 5400$ . Does anyone got something like that ?
2012 A6 3.0 prestige
2012 A6 3.0 prestige
Most likely it's a newbie technician with no clue who has watched more sci-fi videos than mechanic training videos. LOL
But there is a chance that you have same condition as rest of us on this thread, and also for some weird coincidence have control module failure but due to different reason.
#12
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Cotuit MA
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I ask the same thing how its possible to leak true the wire , hi was not even shore about if the control module its bad , so I'm picking the car up tomorrow . Dealer said they will clean the wires and clear up the code so i will see if come up again i will bring it to other dealer . I leave in Cape Cod MA which is like island so i understand that the dealer here are way over priced. I will give update how that goes . I'm new to this forum . Thank you guys
#13
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#14
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I bought that control valve and replace it with my buddy , it took us less then 2 hours , i think the problem was in the wires , it was wet when i took it a part but i replace the valve just in case .The whole thing cost me 150$. I guess that was my last visit at the dealership . Thanks IknowHuhA6
#15
So I gave up and after not finding any info on this DTC. I even sought the help of a friend who is a 40 year certified master tech for insights. Neither of us found info. So my problem it seems is that very few people seem to work on their own Audi's and those that know do not post repair info. So let's start breaking that pattern...
I took car to Riverside Audi to pay for diagnosis and they gave me a printed parts list of items needed for this repair. My aftermarket warranty declined my claim because the Powertrain warranty only covers "internally lubricated parts", and this valve is mounted on driver side exterior of trans and not internal. I then found a local repair garage in Pomona and tried them out at half the cost of Audi's hourly rate. They got the job done in less time quoted by the dealer. Dealer quoted nearly $700 for labor and I ended up paying only $150 at local shop. Only problem was i had to make extra effort to get car rental on my own dime & time instead of getting free loaner car from dealer. We pay for luxury and convenience at dealer. Oh well.
Here's the required items by Dealer to fix this problem. So far my check engine light is gone and I'll re-post if I have any problems.
4H0-121-671-D (VALVE)
1J0-973-702 (HOUSING)
000-979-019-EA (WIRES)
000-979-940 (CONNECTOR)
G-013-A8J-1G (COOL. ADD.)
Parts cost me $294.75+ tax when purchased from dealer.
I bought extra coolant since it's not easily available at local auto part stores in an emergency.
I was weary of the need to replace wire and recommend this not be replaced but instead suggest the connector be cleaned with electronics cleaner unless there is damage to wire. The procedure requires cutting wire and splicing new wire and connector using overpriced $13.26 x2 connectors that can be bought at hardware store for .99 cents. In my opinion a spliced wire is subject to failure as opposed to a non spliced wire depending on who does the work. My 2 cents for what it's worth.
However if you trust the mechanic doing splcied wire work the extra 50-ish dollars for that repair portion mey be worth it. Personal preference.
I took car to Riverside Audi to pay for diagnosis and they gave me a printed parts list of items needed for this repair. My aftermarket warranty declined my claim because the Powertrain warranty only covers "internally lubricated parts", and this valve is mounted on driver side exterior of trans and not internal. I then found a local repair garage in Pomona and tried them out at half the cost of Audi's hourly rate. They got the job done in less time quoted by the dealer. Dealer quoted nearly $700 for labor and I ended up paying only $150 at local shop. Only problem was i had to make extra effort to get car rental on my own dime & time instead of getting free loaner car from dealer. We pay for luxury and convenience at dealer. Oh well.
Here's the required items by Dealer to fix this problem. So far my check engine light is gone and I'll re-post if I have any problems.
4H0-121-671-D (VALVE)
1J0-973-702 (HOUSING)
000-979-019-EA (WIRES)
000-979-940 (CONNECTOR)
G-013-A8J-1G (COOL. ADD.)
Parts cost me $294.75+ tax when purchased from dealer.
I bought extra coolant since it's not easily available at local auto part stores in an emergency.
I was weary of the need to replace wire and recommend this not be replaced but instead suggest the connector be cleaned with electronics cleaner unless there is damage to wire. The procedure requires cutting wire and splicing new wire and connector using overpriced $13.26 x2 connectors that can be bought at hardware store for .99 cents. In my opinion a spliced wire is subject to failure as opposed to a non spliced wire depending on who does the work. My 2 cents for what it's worth.
However if you trust the mechanic doing splcied wire work the extra 50-ish dollars for that repair portion mey be worth it. Personal preference.
Hey man, i just got my code poped up, it has been raining alot up here, I know local mechanics thats been working on alot of VW's and BMW, i thinking about taking it to them and let them order the parts you did, seems like some other guys has been succesfull with your adivce. If there is any other adivce u would give i will really apreciate it.
#16
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hey man, i just got my code poped up, it has been raining alot up here, I know local mechanics thats been working on alot of VW's and BMW, i thinking about taking it to them and let them order the parts you did, seems like some other guys has been succesfull with your adivce. If there is any other adivce u would give i will really apreciate it.
Hopefully my experience will be your advantage.
Good luck! = )
#17
There is nothing else I can provide. I posted everything I know based on my experience. I posted that it could be either unit itself or possibly just the wiring or connector itself. So it's your gamble to do these one-at-a-time or just replace all. The dealer in their infinite "wisdom" (sarcastically meant), decided to replace all three in their assessment. So I did this at independent shop for less... and now I know how to do this myself.
Hopefully my experience will be your advantage.
Good luck! = )
Hopefully my experience will be your advantage.
Good luck! = )
Ill take it to my guys and let them run the code, show them this thread, so they know atleast in what direction they can go in. Im just sick of getting raped by the dealer, 60K miles and had alot of things being repaired, was think about a 2016 A6 but i doubt at this point.
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jhego (12-14-2022)
#18
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you sir,
Ill take it to my guys and let them run the code, show them this thread, so they know atleast in what direction they can go in. Im just sick of getting raped by the dealer, 60K miles and had alot of things being repaired, was think about a 2016 A6 but i doubt at this point.
Ill take it to my guys and let them run the code, show them this thread, so they know atleast in what direction they can go in. Im just sick of getting raped by the dealer, 60K miles and had alot of things being repaired, was think about a 2016 A6 but i doubt at this point.
Shop around... the problem has been identified by the dealer and explained here.
Best wishes! = )
#19
Hey guys,
Just trying to get back to you all about my A6, I took my car in for oil change and thought of just eating the $800+ price for the sensor and the dealership told me that they will fix it for free, just need to pay the $150 oil change plus they gave me a rental for 9 days while working on my car, seems there is legit dealers around.
Just trying to get back to you all about my A6, I took my car in for oil change and thought of just eating the $800+ price for the sensor and the dealership told me that they will fix it for free, just need to pay the $150 oil change plus they gave me a rental for 9 days while working on my car, seems there is legit dealers around.