2.7T Audi A6 starting problem when engine is warm
#51
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This variety of plastic "lip" retainer is common on VAGs, althoug they come on a vast variety of plugs. As its plastic, It will usually get a little brittle with time. Personally, I've had most success by pushing in on the protruding "arch" (might take a little force), while giving it a slight push inwards as if seating the plug - not just pulling and/or wiggling side to side.
#52
1998 Audi A6
Hi guys, I'm having some long cranking issues too, and it happens during hot starts (engine has been run enough to be warm,then I park it while i do a quick grocery shopping and when I am back and try to start the car I've to crank it longer). I do not get any smell of gasoline in particular like some people have mentioned in this thread. Till now the car has always started but I just wanted to fix it for peace of mind and for the sake of my car.
So after reading through this thread, I had a few questions.
CTS seems like an easy and cheap fix, so I might just do it anyways. But I was trying to get a better understanding of the grand scheme of things here Mine is the 2.8L V6 and doesn't have the turbo. So I'm guessing this reduces chances that its a faulty CTS. Also I do not have any error codes. But most importantly my question (hopefully its not a very idiotic one) is this: If the sensor is telling the ECM wrong temperatures, wouldn't the coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster also show wrong temperature? Am I missing something?
I haven't heard of the MAF or CPS causing this anywhere except this thread. So my second suspect would be pressure loss in the fuel line. I was wondering if it was the fuel line, then why does the crank have to be longer on hot starts, whereas during cold starts everything is perfect?
BTW this is probably unrelated but I do have a faulty secondary air injection pump. Thought I would just mention it in case I am wrong.
So after reading through this thread, I had a few questions.
CTS seems like an easy and cheap fix, so I might just do it anyways. But I was trying to get a better understanding of the grand scheme of things here Mine is the 2.8L V6 and doesn't have the turbo. So I'm guessing this reduces chances that its a faulty CTS. Also I do not have any error codes. But most importantly my question (hopefully its not a very idiotic one) is this: If the sensor is telling the ECM wrong temperatures, wouldn't the coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster also show wrong temperature? Am I missing something?
I haven't heard of the MAF or CPS causing this anywhere except this thread. So my second suspect would be pressure loss in the fuel line. I was wondering if it was the fuel line, then why does the crank have to be longer on hot starts, whereas during cold starts everything is perfect?
BTW this is probably unrelated but I do have a faulty secondary air injection pump. Thought I would just mention it in case I am wrong.
#54
AudiWorld Senior Member
If you try to restart after a short period and your injectors are leaking then the engine could be flooded so to speak. Whereas if your injectors leak but you don't try to start the car for many hours then maybe the leaked fuel has evaporated, thus it starts quicker.
Search for leaky injectors, bad CPS, fuel pressure leak down, etc. There are many potential causes. I doubt the CPS because that often requires a long cool down before it will restart.
Search for leaky injectors, bad CPS, fuel pressure leak down, etc. There are many potential causes. I doubt the CPS because that often requires a long cool down before it will restart.
#55
If you try to restart after a short period and your injectors are leaking then the engine could be flooded so to speak. Whereas if your injectors leak but you don't try to start the car for many hours then maybe the leaked fuel has evaporated, thus it starts quicker.
Search for leaky injectors, bad CPS, fuel pressure leak down, etc. There are many potential causes. I doubt the CPS because that often requires a long cool down before it will restart.
Search for leaky injectors, bad CPS, fuel pressure leak down, etc. There are many potential causes. I doubt the CPS because that often requires a long cool down before it will restart.
Cheers!
#56
2005 Audi Allroad (2.7T / Automatic) ...uhhh, Grey
Just wanted to pass on some info. I was reading your responses about hard starting when the engine was warm. For over a year, my check engine light was on and diagnostics indicated several coil packs AND/OR O2 sensors AND/OR mass airflow sensor. I'm thinking, "@#%!!@!!, that's going to be a $eriou$ expense".
Someone had mentioned that it may be an engine coolant sensor. Invoking Occams Razor, I spent the $12-something on the sensor (yeah, I went big with the lifetime warranty). About 20 miles later, the dreaded check engine light went out. Considering the possibility that the light had been on for so long, perhaps it burnt out. I pulled over and shut the engine down for several minutes. Hit the ACC and the light came on but it went out as soon as the engine hit. I have to tell you that I almost had an anxiety attack and would have had to call for a ride home.
I'm happy to report that it's been over a month and it's been perfect, so I hope that this information can help someone else.
Just wanted to pass on some info. I was reading your responses about hard starting when the engine was warm. For over a year, my check engine light was on and diagnostics indicated several coil packs AND/OR O2 sensors AND/OR mass airflow sensor. I'm thinking, "@#%!!@!!, that's going to be a $eriou$ expense".
Someone had mentioned that it may be an engine coolant sensor. Invoking Occams Razor, I spent the $12-something on the sensor (yeah, I went big with the lifetime warranty). About 20 miles later, the dreaded check engine light went out. Considering the possibility that the light had been on for so long, perhaps it burnt out. I pulled over and shut the engine down for several minutes. Hit the ACC and the light came on but it went out as soon as the engine hit. I have to tell you that I almost had an anxiety attack and would have had to call for a ride home.
I'm happy to report that it's been over a month and it's been perfect, so I hope that this information can help someone else.
#57
I can't argue with success, but....The CTS would not give you the codes you had. I have had 2 CTS sensor failures and neither gave a MIL light. Don't be surprised if your MIL problem returns. The fact that the engine starts fine means the CTS was one problem. Hopefully the others just magically go away. I probably sound like a wet blanket, but these cars seem to have a mind of their own....just when you think you fixed it, WHAM!
Last edited by meternerd; 06-24-2019 at 02:58 PM.
#58
Agreed, 99% of the time, a failed CTS won't throw a code, because it thinks it's fine, therefore the whole car thinks it's fine, but in reality, it's far from fine.
Misfires are one thing, O2 sensors are a whole different list of codes... sadly. BTDT.
Misfires are one thing, O2 sensors are a whole different list of codes... sadly. BTDT.
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