jonathanfilippi

hi i just got a 95 a6 fwd 2.8. its got about 100k on it. its an auto. it shifts decent. runs fine. the guy lost the remote, and im planning on integrating a Viper alarm into this thing. (after i get it mechanically solid). the power door locks work, all seems well...

however,
it is showing it needs brakes on the dash, and i ordered new front and rear pads. i also read that indicator might mean the dash guages are going bad... but i guess ill change the pads, then see...?
it also has a PS leak, i ordered an upper PS hose, where i found the leak at. i ordered 2 liters of fluid, also. any ideas how to drain this system???, because someone put some petroleum based PS fluid in there. ( just a lil) .
i also ordered a auto trans filter and gasket kit, and i plan on dumping it and putting in Redline D6 fluid; i plan on ordering a gallon. anything i should know?
i also want to try to replace anything else i should! i know, the timing belt. i plan on ordering the parts asap. but how about diff oil? is there a diff oil to be changed?
i plan on running mobil 1 oil in this car. any notes on what weight i should use? and what filter to run?


anything else im missing?? i want to make this thing as reliable and sound as possible. its my 'GOOD' car!

thanks for the feedback, im new to Audis...

Jon

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Just too many questions.
Get a Bentley manual and follow the instructions.
The brake pad wear light on the instrument cluster only covers the front pads. Rears you have to inspect. Chances are you need new rotors since the wear limit is only 1mm per side (per Audi). FWIW I just put in new pads.
You drain all p/s systems generally by removing the return line from the rack (at the p/s reservoir) and plugging the reservoir. I generally suck the fluid out of the reservoir and set up a bottle to fill the reservoir while the engine is running and pumping the old fluid out the return line…get a big bucket!! That sucker pumps fluid quickly. Some people just start the engine and stop it quickly. It pumps that fast! PUt a few liters through the system, hook up the return line to the reservoir and move the wheel lock to lock a few times. Unless you got air in the system you should be almost there, most of the old stuff and the petroleum whatever should be out. Worst case is the petroleum damaged the seals of the rack (there's a reason Audi uses what they use).

Your owner's manual should tell you what oil to run at what local temps. You should be ok with almost any synthetic these days. I like a minimum 10W-30 but I generally run 15W-40 Amsoil marine/diesel synthetic. It may lose a fraction mpg but it's nice and quiet and good oil pressure. I use Mann filters. Fair disclosure lifetime amsoil dealer yada yada yada.

Generally if you don't KNOW when the timing belt was replaced, viz. a receipt; have the TB service done. Complete…rollers, tensioner, water pump if driven by TB, thermostat, etc.

Transmission drain and filter replace and refill is somewhat complicated; read the manual or go online and get the fill procedure.

There are some retailers online that sell a kit to do the trans that includes filter, gasket, and ATF specific to your trans. Google is your friend. FCPeuro is one source, Blauparts is another. I think FCPeuro has lifetime guarantee for a small fee…not so good for TB failure since it only covers replacement parts rather than damage caused but a good deal for suspension bits.

And that is another issue..you should go through your front end and check for loose ball joints on the multi-link front and rear suspension as well as torn/loose rubber bushings on the chassis side of the various links. Tie rod ends if not inner tie rod ends are also a good thing to look at and replace if necessary. Same sources.

Check your front axle CVJ boots. Replace with boot/lube kit as necessary. Necessary means if the boot is surface cracked/checked it will fail this winter right when you least can afford the time to fix it. Necessary is if the boot is cracked and lube all over your rims or a dry joint…clicking front CVJs during slow full-rack turns (you can often hear it in a parking garage) generally means replace the rzeppa outer joint or just an entire new rebuilt axle(s). Raxles.com seems to be a good source from a lot of people on this forum but I prefer to rebuild my own, i.e., a new inner cvj or outer rzeppa joint (and new boots; they generally come separately).

A 95 A6 is probably gone gone gone shocks…even with 100K on it. Your choice, but worn shocks take out everything else, especially ball joints and bushings.

Remember, google and youtube are your friends..not everything is right or correct, but there is a lot of good information out there.

Good luck.

jonathanfilippi

thanks! i did notice the shocks felt a bit springy. the front pads looked ok, im hoping theres one in the which is stuck, because otherwise i read that it could mean my instrument panel is on its way out...? the rotors dont look all that great, but, yeah im probably just going to swap the pads, and break them in slowly. it doesnt have a warp in the rotors, so, ill just let it be. i have to run through all the suspension parts, though i think this car must have been garaged most of its life. it feels generally tight and fine. i dont think i have any CV issues, though i havent really gotten deep into examination of the suspension pieces, i havent noted anything strange coming from beneath the car, besides the rear brakes grinding. the rotors dont look all that great, but, yeah im probably just going to swap the pads, and break them in slowly. (you know, try to go slow) i ordered a trans change kit already. im figuring on using redline d6 atf fluid. i saw those kits available, but, i want redline oil because i think its the best you can get. i read about how to change it; i know its a pain. but, im sure i can take some out, or add some, until it shifts properly. im sure its going to be a pain, but, not as much pain as having to source a new trans. i know, the timing belt. it was never done. im going to do it. ill go for the whole kit, with rollers and waterpump and so forth. im planning on doing it last, because its so unexciting. the car now has 97k on it, and, the rubber does not show excessive dry rotting on the car, otherwise. so im not too scared... i ordered 2 liters of fluid. do you know what the system holds? can i flush with one, and, fill with the other? i think there was only about maybe a few OZ. of regular PS fluid added. i know, the seals are not designed to handle the petroleum PS fluid. i guess ill just have to hope for the best. i dont have a manual. great idea! so thats the Bentley everyone is talking about on here! so now i know! thanks! only thing is, IS there differential fluid to change?? this is fwd car... thanks, Jon Get a Bentley manual and follow the instructions.
The brake pad wear light on the instrument cluster only covers the front pads. Rears you have to inspect. Chances are you need new rotors since the wear limit is only 1mm per side (per Audi). FWIW I just put in new pads.
You drain all p/s systems generally by removing the return line from the rack (at the p/s reservoir) and plugging the reservoir. I generally suck the fluid out of the reservoir and set up a bottle to fill the reservoir while the engine is running and pumping the old fluid out the return line…get a big bucket!! That sucker pumps fluid quickly. Some people just start the engine and stop it quickly. It pumps that fast! PUt a few liters through the system, hook up the return line to the reservoir and move the wheel lock to lock a few times. Unless you got air in the system you should be almost there, most of the old stuff and the petroleum whatever should be out. Worst case is the petroleum damaged the seals of the rack (there's a reason Audi uses what they use).

Your owner's manual should tell you what oil to run at what local temps. You should be ok with almost any synthetic these days. I like a minimum 10W-30 but I generally run 15W-40 Amsoil marine/diesel synthetic. It may lose a fraction mpg but it's nice and quiet and good oil pressure. I use Mann filters. Fair disclosure lifetime amsoil dealer yada yada yada.

Generally if you don't KNOW when the timing belt was replaced, viz. a receipt; have the TB service done. Complete…rollers, tensioner, water pump if driven by TB, thermostat, etc.

Transmission drain and filter replace and refill is somewhat complicated; read the manual or go online and get the fill procedure.

There are some retailers online that sell a kit to do the trans that includes filter, gasket, and ATF specific to your trans. Google is your friend. FCPeuro is one source, Blauparts is another. I think FCPeuro has lifetime guarantee for a small fee…not so good for TB failure since it only covers replacement parts rather than damage caused but a good deal for suspension bits.

And that is another issue..you should go through your front end and check for loose ball joints on the multi-link front and rear suspension as well as torn/loose rubber bushings on the chassis side of the various links. Tie rod ends if not inner tie rod ends are also a good thing to look at and replace if necessary. Same sources.

Check your front axle CVJ boots. Replace with boot/lube kit as necessary. Necessary means if the boot is surface cracked/checked it will fail this winter right when you least can afford the time to fix it. Necessary is if the boot is cracked and lube all over your rims or a dry joint…clicking front CVJs during slow full-rack turns (you can often hear it in a parking garage) generally means replace the rzeppa outer joint or just an entire new rebuilt axle(s). Raxles.com seems to be a good source from a lot of people on this forum but I prefer to rebuild my own, i.e., a new inner cvj or outer rzeppa joint (and new boots; they generally come separately).

A 95 A6 is probably gone gone gone shocks…even with 100K on it. Your choice, but worn shocks take out everything else, especially ball joints and bushings.

Remember, google and youtube are your friends..not everything is right or correct, but there is a lot of good information out there.

Good luck.[/QUOTE]