KHedges

So I was putting the wheels back on my A6 after some work, and one (passenger side) went on OK and the other didn't. Couldn't line up the lug nuts with the holes in the wheel, so I moved the wheel out of the way to check. The rotor is not just rotated out of phase with the hub, it would fall off if the caliper wasn't holding it in the general vicinity of the hub. I've changed a few tires and have not seen that problem. However, if the problem is the wheel bearing, I've done the right one but the left one didn't need it yet.

There didn't seem to be anything relevant in my Bentley manual so I'm posting here for advice.

I'm hoping this is an easier fix than it seemed at 12:30 a.m. after a long day with not enough sleep. I don't know if I CAN get it towed to a shop, even if I had one I trusted, if it only has three wheels on it.

If the answer isn't just "figure how to get everything aligned and reassemble with lug nuts", does anyone have recommendations for mobile mechanics in Silicon Valley area? I don't have the time or patience to do more repairs this week because I need it to take my stuff to a craft fair 50 miles away.

(This is my 1999 Audi A6 Avant Quattro 2.8L V6, about 170K on it. LOTS of work after rescuing from Copart last April.)

In case this is related, I've occasionally gotten the 3 beeps + BRAKE warning light intermittently, typically in hot weather in traffic after driving at least half an hour. It goes away immediately, so I can't take it in while it's doing the thing. If it starts doing it on a given trip, it will recur, but I can't reproduce it. I'll drive the same route a different day and it's fine. Expert friend's opinion is a sensor issue (new master cylinder, plenty of fluid, brakes operate really well, nothing obviously wrong).

Driver's side rotor

georgeb944

Your rotor is not seated to the hub. To remedy this, install the lug bolt (with some washers to take up slack) at the 1 oclock position in the photo. Tightening the bolt should align all of the bolt holes. If you have one of the threaded rod plastic helpers in your took kit (if you even have a tool kit at all, I have bought from Copart before), put it in, then remove the lug bolt and mount the wheel. If you can find some m14 bolts around 100 mm long, they work much better than the plastic piece, which will break at the worst time.

Harleyguy

Don't remember for sure but I think it was Blau Parts where I ordered a replacement guide pin for changing wheels. It was metal, not plastic. I had ordered one from Autohaus AZ and it was the right size but the thread count was wrong. It was also metal not plastic but unusable because of the thread cut. Also there is quite a bit of rust showing in your photo. It would make things easier if that was all cleaned up before reassembly. Wire brush in a cordless drill would do the trick (wear dust mask!).

KHedges

Thanks, my friend also pointed out it would be easier if I let down the other side first so it's tilted helpfully. He said the rotor Previous Owner used lacks a hole for a screw to hold it with.

But if I can get an alignment tool, better.

Sigh. My "second car" has two wheels, no motor, and the most convenient hardware stores just went out of business. At least it's only a 10 minute ride to the closest auto parts store.

I will check the tool kit but don't recall seeing the thing in it.

georgeb944

The steel version of the tool is here:

Harleyguy

The hole for the retention screw appears to be in the "7" o'clock position in the photo. It is the one with the beveled hole. The wheel alignment pin/ tool is often placed inside the handle of the lug wrench in the original tool kit.

KHedges

Thanks! No hole in Previous Owner's aftermarket rotors but good for future reference.