Redneck Truck

I compiled a few maintenance questions into one big thread. I plan to post lots of pictures of the processes, so any help you guys could give making this a good writeup would be appreciated.

Valve cover gaskets, cam plugs and seals:
Is there anything else I ought to do while I'm in there? Also, my Toyota buddies frequently reuse these cam plugs with a little silicone. Any reasons for or against?

Timing belt:
I'd buy the kit from the dealer too, but they want $850 for it. I've never seen a specific reference to 4.2's in people's praises of Blauparts. Is there a happy medium (quality and price)? I've got access to the tools locally.

IMT rods:
I noticed the actuators that turn the IMT rods move very slowly, so I removed the vacuum lines from them and operated them by hand. They take a great deal of effort to move in either direction. Is this a problem? What is the solution?

Vacuum lines:
I replaced the lines on the front of the intake. When I remove the main such hose, I don't get the hiss I expected. There is vacuum after the first check valve. Is it safe to assume there's a vacuum leak elsewhere? What other lines should I replace?

CCV:
A new CCV valve is $130 at the dealer. I hear it's a maintenance item, but if there's any way around it, I'd like to try it. Suggestions? Other things to replace to avoid future oil leaks?


Thanks in advance for all your help!

Redneck Truck

Variable Intake Manifold (IMT) valves solved. Popped off the rods that the vacuum actuators pull on, unbolted the spring loaded arms that rotate the valves, cleaned and lubricated the front pivot, and "exercised" the arms back and forth a few hundred times, and they move as they should. Still a lot of vacuum leaks to contend with I think, but I'll get to that.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Good move. This is probably something that should be added to the long term maintenance schedule...I first had problems with an IMT on the 2K4.2A6 at around 32K in 2002...the entire manifold was replaced under warranty. Probably need to do this every 5-6 years or 60K miles...maybe half the timing belt interval. Cheap insurance for a $1600 job at the stealer.

Just went through the same thing again on the same car at around 135K miles and 10 years old...replaced the entire manifold because I didn't have the time to do what you did....wifey wanted car NOW.

I've seen some replaced manifolds...the front rods are stiff because the bushings dry out and get corrosion between the plastic arms and the too-tight aluminum semi–enclosures around them.

Redneck Truck

Thanks for the reassurance. I was hoping I wasn't loosening them up and setting myself up for a vacuum leak or something. A friend of mine assured me that nothing was wrong, but I argued that if the return spring didn't return the arm to its home position, that was a problem.

I've got an RS6 intake manifold I was going to attempt to run, but the same friend warned me that there was a reason for all that IMT stuff, and that I would probably be disappointed with such a change. My logic was that shorter runners and less intake volume would give much better throttle response and better low-end torque. I would lose the scavenging effect of a long runner manifold, but with the right cams, it might resonate and make more power way up high. Thoughts?

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Other way around...shorter runners and less intake volume give better high end power....can't get both.

The longer the intake runner generally the lower the power band (think organ music) resonance.

I tried running with the sticking manifold set on the intermediate (3600-5600 rpm) setting and it was ok, but it set a code after a few months...or maybe it tripped something else.

The variable intake manifold appears to be a significant boost at low, medium, and high speed.

peteb455

The Meyle water pump that came with my Blauparts timing belt kit started leaking out the weep hole after less than 5K miles. I guess it could have been a fluke, but given the amount of time and money involved, I wouldn't try another one.
__________________

2001 4.2

Redneck Truck

hmm, everybody on MG seems to think the RS6 manifold is a bad idea. naturally aspirated. anybody got any turnkey turbo plans they'd let go for cheap?