Redneck Truck

Where does the oil dripping start? I'd be willing to bet your front cam seals are leaking before I'd bet your crank seal leaked. The whole front, sides, and bottom of my motor were covered in oil from the valve covers and cam seals, and the rear main seal was covered due to drippage from the CCV cover plate in the valley between the heads.

You can make this as big or as small of a project as you want - it's up to you. Just remember that "better to replace it while you're in there" can sometimes be the worst advice, since you may be replacing perfectly good parts with defective parts, or you may botch an install when there was nothing wrong to begin with. I've had the transmission off and I didn't replace the rear seal, and I've had the timing stuff all off and didn't replace the front seal.

If there's red stuff on the bolt, they do not want it coming out, and oil will not help that. The 4.2s didn't have a washer like the one you described, but someone did mention a thrust washer... could that maybe be what the dealer sold you? If there wasn't one in there, maybe it didn't apply to your car, or maybe someone has worked on it before and didn't reinstall it, and that's why it's leaking. I'm leaning toward the former theory, though.

I made a video of disassembling the front of the crank on the 4.2 and the way it all goes together. You'll have to decide if it's the same on yours.

Journey117

Thanks, I will look into that. Front cam seals and cam adjuster seals have been replaced a couple of years ago.

Actually I may have a bigger problem, as my camshaft sprockets do not fully line up. The tabs are facing the right way (bigger holes on the inside), got the crank lock in place (3242), marked the belt, so it could work out without messing stuff up. I replaced the timing belt a few years back and everything went well, but it is possible one or both sprockets shifted -- hopefully before not after -- I tightened them. BTW, I started this whole job because the water pump (blauparts) started leaking after 55K.

The pictures show the ends of cam locator bar 3391. So what the heck should I do? To install a new belt I would need to loosen the sprockets, but I cannot loosen the sprockets without the bar. Since my old belt has only 55K on it and it is marked, I could reuse it, but a) I could run into this very same issue down the road and b) the belt had coolant spilled all over it while the pump leaked like siv. I guess I'll put the old belt back on, turn the engine by hand a few times, start it up, and if it still runs ok, I'll replace the belt before I put the bumper and stuff back together.

4Driver4

Why can't you use the bar shown in the picture to hold each cam to loosen the bolts and reset timing?

SloopJohnB@mac.com

If the crank is at TDC use the bar to line up the left hand sprocket...turn the bar horizontal and it should drop into the RH cam. If it doesn't, remove it from the LH cam and attach it to the rh cam and do same thing. Then install bar.

Loosen camshaft sprocket center bolt and pop loose sprockets; install new TB and tensioner, idler pulley, water pump, thermostat as necessary.

Journey117

Sounds like a plan. So, this will not change the valve timing enough to cause problems, will it?

Journey117

I did exactly that. In the process I realized how this works: the cam locator tabs are keyed to the camshafts, and by realigning them (crank at TDC) the timing is brought back to normal. There is really (almost) no way to mess it up. The job is done and the car actually runs better.

I replaced the front crank seal on suspicion, and it paid off -- the old one was really dry and stiff, no surprise ater 174K miles I guess. But in general I agree with Redneck Truck: "better to replace it while you're in there can sometimes be the worst advice", especially when your car has only 120k on it.

Thanks for all the advise and input. Have my car back.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Schweet!

Robert Fuller

Hello, the repair shop says that this job requires the AC system to be evacuated and recharged. I haven't found any mention of this anywhere. Please advise me, is this necessary or are they wrong in charging me for this added service? BTW my AC is working fine...Thank you

4Driver4

No. Not even close.

georgeb944

Your "mechanic" probably does not understand that the AC condensor can be rotated out of the way (into the passenger wheel well) without disturbing the AC refrigerant system.

If he doesn't know this, you have to question as to whether he is qualified to work on your car, or whether he want you to pay to experiment on your car.

I would look for a qualified Audi shop.