4Driver4

Best bet is to pull the intake manifold. Once you do that, it's easy. Probably not a bad idea to do it now since you have most of the plumbing out of the way.

jseklund

The aux. water pump on the 2.7T is normally under the intake manifold. I've seen some people state they have removed it without removing the intake but I would never put myself through that. The intake comes off pretty easily while you've got everything else apart - so get 2 new gaskets and pull it. I would say though, if it isn't leaking, I don't see any need to replace is as maintenance.

jseklund

Oh yeah - and I'm sure you were glad you had that locking pin in when those cams flipped! That is exactly what my thoughts were on the other thread when we discussed it. Good job being one of the people who actually used those tools.

acarney

My dealer said it was "seeping" and that it probably wasn't causing a puddle on the ground but did need to be replaced at some point. They said about $700 parts and labor. If I can get to it with just a little extra work I'll do it now. If not I was going to play the "wait and see" game since they said it looked like it had been seeping for months & I hadn't had any issues or really a noticeable coolant loss.

Hell yes I was happy that locking pin was in place!! As soon as that sprocket shifted so forcefully and then wouldn't easily rotate back to how it was with the tool on I called it a night & just posted here and then fell asleep feeling sick, lol. The only thing I kept thinking about was maybe that locking pin being in helped and would be a huge issue. The more things I can isolate and remove as potential problems the better!!

I noticed some green paint on my sprockets and it didn't click till last night that I think my indie used the "mark method" instead of the locking bar and TDC didn't not align those sprockets perfectly so the bar could go on. I'm wondering if he got them close enough to not throw a code or cause and issue but when I finish this job with the locking bar if they'll be slightly more ideal and maybe run a little better or something. At least I can hope! I also found a couple of the pain in the *** to reach bolts needed to move or loosen stuff to get to timing belt related parts were lose! Not missing but way away from even 7 ft lbs! The guy was nice and always fit me in and was cheaper then the dealer, but I'm starting to think he had fallen into the habit of taking short cuts...


Btw, does anyone have a part number for the aux water pump? I'm stuck in classes all day today and can't get to my Bentley and was hoping to order them early enough to get them shipped tonight.

jseklund

Those cams spin almost every time. I made the same post when I did it and 4D4 had to help me, and I have seen a dozen posts since the first time I've done it with the same issue. Just count the rollers and use the locking tool when you're done and you'll be golden. Whether your indy guy was off or not really won't matter because you know you will be "on" since you did it right with the pin and bar.

Also, if you are doing the end seals, you don't really have to remove all of the cam caps or pull the cams. I just remove the end caps one at a time.

The part number for the aux. pump according to ECS is : 078 965 561

If you have the front apart, you can look down at various angles and see if there is any coolant in the valley on the top of the engine. That will tell you if it is leaking sometimes...I try to look from the front of the car at the sides of the throttle body and through the "ribs" of the intake.

acarney

I'm doing everything that's included in this Blauparts kit... http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21002%2D1B

The aux water pump looks BONE dry, I'm not sure why my dealer said it was bad and needed ~$700 to service it. Honestly my water pump didn't look TOO terrible (I didn't see a bunch of dried fluid seeping from it) but the gasket did look pretty bad when I took it out AND there was a hair line crack on the inside from the center of the casing running outward... Maybe that was letting it leak out from the center (bearing?) The thermostat had the most sign of leaking but still that was maybe a quarter sized amount of crusted fluid coming out of it... My full expansion tank was empty after 5 or 6 days of the car sitting, the leak must have been pretty decent. I seriously hope there isn't another leak somewhere. The dealer only mentioned the water pump and aux pump and charged me ~$100 for the time it took to figure that out, I'm going to be PISSED if it turns out that neither needed replaced!

I broke the passenger side of the crankcase breather hose (PCV system?) while removing the plastic hose from the top rear of the valve cover gasket so I'm replacing that. Would it be easier to replace if the intake manifold was removed? It seriously looks like a pain in the *** to reach down and connect all the hoses (one goes to secondary air intake?).

Do our cars have a suction pump for this system too? A lot of people have said a clogged one can force oil past gaskets and I had a huge amount of oil around one of my spark plugs when I pulled the coil out. That actually is a cheap part and thought I would replace that too just in case it was forcing high pressure. I had about six different dime sized amounts of oil show up within a couple days a couple months back... ECS couldn't find a part number for my car though even with my VIN...

jseklund

The spider hose comes as a complete assembly and is more expensive than it should be - over $120+ and often close to $200.

They get brittle and break and they clog up quite a bit.

It is easier to remove the bottom hose with the intake off, but not necessary.

The thermostat is a typical point of coolant leakage.

There is no suction pump on the 2.7T.

acarney

Just bought a suction pump from my dealer who confirmed it was for a 2.7t... Part # 058 133 753D. I have a new vent hose (078103235R) on it's way and should have it Monday. Hopefully early in the day so I can almost finish the job.

jseklund

wow, if that is the case, I must have missed it and I know this engine pretty well, having had the heads off of both sides of the engine in my mom's 2.7T. It must have been tucked in a hose pretty well - I wonder where it is now....what else will they hide away in this engine bay

acarney

I'm curious too. That's why I posted the part number. I hope my dealer wasn't just pulling a fast one on me. It doesn't look much like a "pump" either as in it doesn't seem to have any electrical connections. Just a Y-tube, they said they have them in stock (the ONLY part that I needed that they stocked) because they're often clogged and are worth changing if you change the vent system.

Edit: ECS mentions on their site that it's located under the intake manifold. I'm pulling that off to replace my aux water pump anyway AND it makes replacing the vent hose easier so I'll find out if I have this magic suction pump there or not.