ESP and ABS light on after control arm replacement
11-25-2005, 02:11 PM
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ESP and ABS light on after control arm replacement
Started out with a rotor problem, kept putting off replacement because the pads were new. Vibration got so bad that the front end was hopping while braking @ 40-30 mph. Figured that that was extreme for a defective rotor. Decided to buy the control arm kit to tighten up the front end first. Researched the procedure for upper control arms and away I went. Worked @ removing the pinch bolt for almost 2 days, other side only took 8 hrs. Unbelieveable!!! Anyway, when all was said and done, my ESP and ABS warning lights stay on. What's up with that. What can one do? I have a VAG if needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The car is '01 2.7T.
PS: I was wondering if anybody knew the procedure for tie rod ends, stabilizer link and lower control arms?
From what I read the tie rod end procedure is relatively easy. Yeah, the upper control arms was supposed to be a 30 minute job too.
PS: I was wondering if anybody knew the procedure for tie rod ends, stabilizer link and lower control arms?
From what I read the tie rod end procedure is relatively easy. Yeah, the upper control arms was supposed to be a 30 minute job too.
11-25-2005, 03:02 PM
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Using VAG Com, what codes should I check?
Noobie when it comes to Audi maintenance. Have used my VAG Com to TIP the tranny and to change remote codes. How do I use it and what am I looking for? Thanx in advance.
11-25-2005, 03:06 PM
#4
do a full system scan
do a full system scan and pay attention to the brake electronics module. You may find the area of your problem pretty quickly. Post your results for further diag.
11-25-2005, 04:18 PM
#6
you may have damaged the harness during service
you need to check resistance through the wheel speed sensor in question using the terminals at the ABS connector. Perhpas someone with a wiring diagram handy here can give you the pins to check. I don't have the ohm specs here but usually with this fault it is a complete open circuit.
If you wiggle test the harness while monitoring the ohm meter you might be able to pinpoint the area where the harness is damaged. You can try butt splicing new wiring in for a cheap repair without buying a whole new speed sender.
If you wiggle test the harness while monitoring the ohm meter you might be able to pinpoint the area where the harness is damaged. You can try butt splicing new wiring in for a cheap repair without buying a whole new speed sender.
11-25-2005, 05:44 PM
#7
Step one is to make sure the sensor is seated. Push it in tight.
The sensor reads the tabs on the CV joint. If you used a ton of solvent and/or got metal shavings in between the joint and the knuckle you might have to pull the CV joint and clean it. If seating the sensor doesn't work, pull the sensor all the way out and look it the hole while slowly turning the wheel. Make sure there isn't any crap in there. Clean the sensor off and stuff it back it.
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11-27-2005, 01:52 PM
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You guys are geniuses
Thank you for the information. All it needed was for the sensor to be removed and thoroughly cleaned. I had performed the operation and everything is as it shoud be. Thanks again for all the help.
11-27-2005, 03:57 PM
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OK now how do I clear the fault code
After remedying the problem, the lights (ESP/ABS) are no longer on in the car but vag com states that I still have faults. How can I clear them. Thanks in advance.