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help for c5 a6 4.2 serpentine belt

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Old 07-23-2018, 07:56 AM
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Default help for c5 a6 4.2 serpentine belt

Hey guys, Im going out of town to fix my replace my cousins 2003 audi a6 4.2 serpentine belt. Im looking to see if any one has any tips or thread links where someone has talked about it. I was just trying to gather any tools and info before I head out as he is located in a remote spot and I am trying to save him money on towing and dealership fees. Youtube has a few videos on other models (C6). One guy has a great post on here for a C6 as well. I havent been able to find anything specifically on a 2003 audi a6 c5.

Any information would be great. Even a confirmed diagram would be greatly appreciated, THANKS!
Old 07-23-2018, 08:47 AM
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Anybody who would do that for a cousin deserves a little support.

Pertinent pages from the workshop manual attached as a pdf.
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a6 c5 v8 serp belt r and r.pdf (1.04 MB, 327 views)
Old 07-23-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by georgeb944
Anybody who would do that for a cousin deserves a little support.

Pertinent pages from the workshop manual attached as a pdf.

holy moly, thank you very much. have a good day!
Old 07-23-2018, 10:51 AM
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I was able to do mine without putting the car into service position. Special tools needed: Large crescent wrench, masking or duct tape, drop light or good flashlight, jack and jackstands.

1) get a copy of the routing for the belt. My car had none under the hood, no decal, nothing.
2) Bought a Gates "Green" belt at NAPA (the green banded are a little better quality).
3) Jacked up the front of the car several inches and put jack stands in place. Opened the hood.
4) If you have a splash shield under the engine remove it .
5) If the old belt is still in place, remove it, paying attention to the routing as you do so. The idler pulley is at the bottom of the motor so you access it from below. The shaft the pulley mounts to has a hex feature immediately behind the pulley. Securely fit the crescent wrench to the hex and remove tension from the belt by turning the hex taking the belt off the idler. ****There is quite a bit of tension on the idler. Do not let it snap back after you remove the belt. Ease up on the tension gently.****
6) You should now be able to snake the old belt out from above. Only tight spot is the main fan and the narrow gap between the fan and radiator core. Was not a problem at all.
7) Start threading the new belt around all the pulleys from above. I didn't have help so I used the tape to secure the belt to the pulleys as I progressed. About half way through you will need to get under the car to get the belt around the lower pulleys, saving the idler for last.
The whole job took me about 40 minutes in my garage at home, and I think I paid $47 for the belt at NAPA. Audi quoted me $450 to do this job.
Old 07-23-2018, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Harleyguy
I was able to do mine without putting the car into service position. Special tools needed: Large crescent wrench, masking or duct tape, drop light or good flashlight, jack and jackstands.

1) get a copy of the routing for the belt. My car had none under the hood, no decal, nothing.
2) Bought a Gates "Green" belt at NAPA (the green banded are a little better quality).
3) Jacked up the front of the car several inches and put jack stands in place. Opened the hood.
4) If you have a splash shield under the engine remove it .
5) If the old belt is still in place, remove it, paying attention to the routing as you do so. The idler pulley is at the bottom of the motor so you access it from below. The shaft the pulley mounts to has a hex feature immediately behind the pulley. Securely fit the crescent wrench to the hex and remove tension from the belt by turning the hex taking the belt off the idler. ****There is quite a bit of tension on the idler. Do not let it snap back after you remove the belt. Ease up on the tension gently.****
6) You should now be able to snake the old belt out from above. Only tight spot is the main fan and the narrow gap between the fan and radiator core. Was not a problem at all.
7) Start threading the new belt around all the pulleys from above. I didn't have help so I used the tape to secure the belt to the pulleys as I progressed. About half way through you will need to get under the car to get the belt around the lower pulleys, saving the idler for last.
The whole job took me about 40 minutes in my garage at home, and I think I paid $47 for the belt at NAPA. Audi quoted me $450 to do this job.

thank you very much my friend. the previous reply attached some original audi maintenance manual diagrams too which i was desperate for since my cousins belt actually fell off a couple pulleys as per the pictures he sent me so there wouldn't have been anything original to go off of.

In terms of the rest of your reply i greatly appreciate it as well, i wouldn't have thought to bring tape but i sure as hell will and its good to know about the tension level on the tensioner safety is always priority... as per the maintenance manual there is a locking pin you can use to lock the tensioner but i don't have access to this unless i can make one. Thats more of a audi garage thing im sure I have all the tools in my trunk including the belt which i paid 52 bucks for! Audi wanted 108 and i had to wait 3 days...

thanks again and CHEERS
Old 07-23-2018, 03:02 PM
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You can also get the belt routing diagram off Google. Use all the particulars of your car in the search box ( i.e. 2003 Audi A6 4.2L serpentine belt routing diagram). This should provide you access to several printable diagrams. After removing the old belt I just simply gently released the tension on the idler till I was ready to apply the new belt. The price paid for the new belt is reasonable.

Last edited by Harleyguy; 07-23-2018 at 03:06 PM.
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