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help with timing belt-2004 2.7t

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Old 12-20-2011, 11:20 AM
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Default help with timing belt-2004 2.7t new issues

Hi, i looked like a crazy person to find the crank pin lock plug, i looked up info on the forum and found pictures too, but I can find that plastic plug with a 10mm bolt right by the engine mount bracket. what i found was a 8mm allen bolt. that is in the first picture, I removed it and install the pin with the crank at TDC.
Is that the right hole?
Does the pin has to thread in all the way?
also the timing mark is off a little in order to get the pin in, I wiggled it a little and seems like is a little off?
What to do next?? loosen up the cam sprockets and than install the cam locking tool?
please help me, i'm kind off stuck, it is first time!
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Last edited by baubau2.7; 12-21-2011 at 03:09 PM.
Old 12-20-2011, 11:44 AM
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That's it - same as on my car (same year and engine).

It's a different plug than on earlier years - I wasn't sure at first either, but with the pin in there, the crank will no longer turn.
Old 12-20-2011, 12:23 PM
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Looks fine to me. That's why you go by the pin rather than the mark.

Check the crank sprocket key carefully when you get it apart.
Old 12-20-2011, 01:10 PM
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Agree. Could also be a little bit of parallax in the pic....look at the index mark on the crank straight up and it might line up almost perfectly.
Old 12-20-2011, 01:39 PM
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I could never find it and didn't use the pin. It's not really necessary so long as you check you're still at TDC once you put the belt on.
Old 12-21-2011, 03:23 PM
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This is what I did do far:
-i installed the new thermostat, water pump.
-i installed the relay roller, tensioner roller and tensioner arm and the dampener, just hand tight i did not torque them down.
Should i torque them down now, or after i put the belt on?
-I want to put the tb on next, starting from crank, relay roller, driver cam, water pump, pass cam.
-Everybody says on aw to losen up the cam sprockets, but are also people saying that the camshaft will move?
-Do you have to loosen the up with the cam lock bar in place?
-Also with my parts they send thread locker, on what bolts did u use it?
-Also the tensioner roller how it has to be installed in relation with the tensioner arm?
Also while I was removing the breather hose on the valve covers I busted a vacuum valve this is the number i took of of it: 078611933b that looks like in the picture.
if i put it back just by taping it for now just to see if everything is ok, until i get one from the dealer tommorow, do you think it will run?
please help me I got myself in quite a mess, and need someone to guide me, i'm triyng to get the car back together.
Thank you!
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by baubau2.7
Should i torque them down now, or after i put the belt on?
Torque them now so you don't forget.

Originally Posted by baubau2.7
-I want to put the tb on next, starting from crank, relay roller, driver cam, water pump, pass cam.
Works for me.

Originally Posted by baubau2.7
-Everybody says on aw to losen up the cam sprockets, but are also people saying that the camshaft will move?
How did you change the cam seals? Cam adjuster seals?
How are you going set cam timing if you don't loosen the sprockets?


Originally Posted by baubau2.7
-Do you have to loosen the up with the cam lock bar in place?
Yes. You need the bar to hold the cams in place so you can loosen the bolts.


Originally Posted by baubau2.7
-Also with my parts they send thread locker, on what bolts did u use it?
I never use it.


Originally Posted by baubau2.7
-Also the tensioner roller how it has to be installed in relation with the tensioner arm?

Not sure what you mean. It only fits one way.
Old 12-22-2011, 04:18 AM
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Agree with 4D4 on everything - mostly because he and others on this board taught me to begin with!

As for that breather hose - it won't be as cheap as you might think!! I did that once before and think it was like $50 or something.

As for the relay arm - if you look in the back of the tension roller, it has a little pin. The arm pushes this pin. The "lever" that contacts the pin should be up against the engine, and go behind the roller and make contact with that pin. With this knowledge, you will see what 4D4 means when he says it only goes on one way.

Make sure you DO NOT OVER TORQUE the bolts on the rollers. These should be 20 NM, and if you overtorque, they can malfunction, causing uber-serious damage. Have a good toqure wrench, double check the bentley for specs, and make sure the rollers are torqued correctly. Do it before the belt.

Finally, on the cams - put the bar on, loosen the bolt in the front that holds the wings, and then leave the bolt lose with about 1/2-1 inch of play. Remove the bar, use pullers and pull the sprockets. You shouldn't see much cam movement with this method.

When you put it all back together, leave the sprockets so they are free-spinning, put the wings back on the front and push it back so the wings make contact with the end of the shaft. The end of the shaft is keyed to those wings so they only go on one way. Before you put the second sprocket on, put the belt on everything, and then over the last sprocket and slide it into place. Then put the wing on that one. Leave the pulleys so that they spin freely on the shafts, but so that the wings are in their keyed positions.

Put the bar on, tighten down the camshaft bolts, and you should be good.

Good luck!

Last edited by jseklund; 12-22-2011 at 04:23 AM.
Old 04-21-2014, 07:14 AM
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Aha! These were the photos I was seeking. I was going with the Bentley + Blauparts guide ("1. Car in service position. 2. Install crank lock pin. 3. Remove timing belt and water pump. 4. Installation is reverse of removal." Thanks. Real helpful there), stared at that greenish-hued hex key plug for a while but wasn't 100% certain since Bentley and Blauparts instructions are completely worthless when it comes to location and identification of that plug in general, and specifically on this engine.

When did the plug change from a 10mm hex head and plastic plug to a metal hex key plug? Is it just on the BEL block?

Also, safe to assume I need to drop the turbo pipe and go in through the wheel well as others have reported, or what?

Thanks,
Sean
Old 04-21-2014, 09:04 PM
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Piece of cake. Removed the two bolts for the air charge pipe, shoved it out of the way, got the plug out with a hex driver on a 3/8 u-joint and a long extension, put the lock pin in by hand from behind the crossmember and tightened with a swivel head ratchet wrench. Ten minutes, tops, including photos. Many thanks to the guy who provided the original photos, here are a few more for the next guy.

I have a short 5mm hex key, cut down to maybe 1/2" long on the short side, did it a while back for something at the back of the engine. Came in handy for the socket head bolt near the oil drain plug, but if you don't have the drain valve like I do, you can access that bolt with a long 5mm key. The other bolt looks like it's behind the air conditioning pipes, but it's actually *between* them...just press the a/c pipes apart a bit with a finger, and the 5mm key fits no problem.
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Last edited by devinsixtyseven; 04-21-2014 at 09:08 PM.


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