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Old 06-06-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 2k3s2k
When I say freely by hand I mean it turns over as you would expect. I can feel the compression strokes when i do this. It feels normal. The cams do move, the motor does turn. I was told the possible negative effects of installing torque converter on engine first (after I did this of course), but was told since the torque converter spins freely unbolted from the flywheel with motor installed that things were likely lined up properly. True or false? If I put the car in neutral and try to start would that make any difference? Or prove anything?
Guess it's back to basics then. Any spark? Any fuel? What is the compression reading by cylinder? Any codes?
Old 06-06-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
As a quicker check, it probably makes sense to remove the bolts between the flex plate and torque converter and check that the torque converter isn't bound up against the flex plate. You should be able to remove the bolts and push the torque converter toward the trans by half a centimeter or so. Once you do this, you should be able to turn it back and forth independent of the flex plate.
This I have done. The torque converter spins freely once unbolted from the flywheel. The motor does not turn fast enough to do a compression test. I have fuel and spark. The loud pop and crack I hear prevents me from cranking any more for fear of damage. I cannot tell where the noise is coming from.. I'm going to pull the motor, check the splines and TC, and reinstall properly. I'll report back
Old 06-07-2014, 01:14 PM
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Ok, removed and reinstalled. Torque converter was not installed correctly. The 2 notches on the converter were not seated into the trans. Motor spins and cranks as it should. Still wont start, not sure if it relates to the jumper cable incident. Didnt have time to check fuel spark etc. Thanks for all your help so far, I'll keep updating
Old 06-07-2014, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k3s2k
Ok, removed and reinstalled. Torque converter was not installed correctly. The 2 notches on the converter were not seated into the trans. Motor spins and cranks as it should. Still wont start, not sure if it relates to the jumper cable incident. Didnt have time to check fuel spark etc. Thanks for all your help so far, I'll keep updating
Since it had fuel and spark before (first engine swap) it should now…most likely to be flooded. You can open up one spark plug and see if it's wet or fouled… To start flooded engine, hold foot to floor and crank for one minute….Let starter cool for 5-10 minutes.
Old 06-07-2014, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
Since it had fuel and spark before (first engine swap) it should now…most likely to be flooded. You can open up one spark plug and see if it's wet or fouled… To start flooded engine, hold foot to floor and crank for one minute….Let starter cool for 5-10 minutes.
The plugs are brand new, just dropped them in before starting this time. Cylinders still could be. I will try that.
Old 06-09-2014, 01:05 PM
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So compression check out, fuel checks out, but I've found I have no spark. Searching for wiring diagrams. In the mean time, any place you suggest I start? Could this be related to the reversed jumpers? I dont know if this matters, but the small black box that bolts the lower right ignition coil assembly (I assume this is a ground of some kind) was damaged and I had to splice in another. Does this affect ignition at all? I'm also using a handheld trigger to power the starter as i have no one to crank the car while i look around. i don't know if this would also cause no spark since the key isn't physically being turned..

I also still feel the motor is cranking way too slowly. i listen to my 99 A4 2.8 crank and its pretty quick, fires right up. I take that same battery and put it in the A6 and its cranking at half the speed it seems like.

Last edited by 2k3s2k; 06-09-2014 at 03:51 PM.
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