installing the crankshaft locking pin
10-28-2013, 09:05 AM
#21
With my 2003 A6 4.2l getting at the plug from the wheel well seemed too troublesome. Especially if I wanted to eventually reach and spin the plug by hand.
So, from lying underneath my raised vehicle, I dropped the front of the anti-sway bar (4- nuts) and then undid the clamp on the bracket holding the oil cooler lines (the bracket is in the second picture) and moved the cooler lines aside. Then I loosened the nut that fastened the same bracket to the block and swung it up out of the way. Leaving plenty of room to get my hand up in there.
So, from lying underneath my raised vehicle, I dropped the front of the anti-sway bar (4- nuts) and then undid the clamp on the bracket holding the oil cooler lines (the bracket is in the second picture) and moved the cooler lines aside. Then I loosened the nut that fastened the same bracket to the block and swung it up out of the way. Leaving plenty of room to get my hand up in there.
05-09-2016, 08:57 PM
#22
crank locking pin
With my 2003 A6 4.2l getting at the plug from the wheel well seemed too troublesome. Especially if I wanted to eventually reach and spin the plug by hand.
So, from lying underneath my raised vehicle, I dropped the front of the anti-sway bar (4- nuts) and then undid the clamp on the bracket holding the oil cooler lines (the bracket is in the second picture) and moved the cooler lines aside. Then I loosened the nut that fastened the same bracket to the block and swung it up out of the way. Leaving plenty of room to get my hand up in there.
So, from lying underneath my raised vehicle, I dropped the front of the anti-sway bar (4- nuts) and then undid the clamp on the bracket holding the oil cooler lines (the bracket is in the second picture) and moved the cooler lines aside. Then I loosened the nut that fastened the same bracket to the block and swung it up out of the way. Leaving plenty of room to get my hand up in there.
05-10-2016, 07:32 AM
#23
AudiWorld Super User
05-10-2016, 08:29 AM
#24
crank locking plug leak
I have a very small leak that occurs around the plug where the crank locking pin is installed. This leak continues even when the engine is shut off. Can any one tell me where this oil is coming from when the engine is shut down. I was wondering if my spider hose for the crankcase ventilation could be plugged although I just installed a new one 30,000 miles a go.
thank you
05-11-2016, 10:10 AM
#25
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The plug has a sealing washer
You may be missing the sealing washer for the plug. Oil gets on the threads of the plug and works its way out after the engine is turned off.
It's typically a thin aluminum washer.
When was the last time the plug was removed?
It's typically a thin aluminum washer.
When was the last time the plug was removed?
05-11-2016, 04:37 PM
#26
the plug actually has no threads. It is inserted into the hole and seals via an o-ring at 10Nm. Peter
05-12-2016, 09:48 AM
#27
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05-13-2016, 02:53 PM
#29
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09-25-2016, 05:53 PM
#30
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Timing belt has nothing to do with the TDC tool...what happens is the harmonic balancer integral to the crankshaft pulley can slip and the degree mark on the pulley can migrate.
Soooo, even though you line up the mark on the pulley with the crankcase, the crankshaft itself isn't lined up.
That's why you probe to make sure the hole is there.
And BTW, that's also a good sign to know you need to replace the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer/damper...if the TDC mark is off by more than a couple degrees the pulley is failing and could either continue to walk around or even migrate inwards and damage the crankcase or migrate outwards and fly off the crankshaft.
In the old days I would take a scribe or magic marker and mark a line radially on the harmonic balancer. When the line broke it was a sign the balancer needed to be replaced because the isolation layer had failed.
This is what happens/looks like a failed balancer:
Soooo, even though you line up the mark on the pulley with the crankcase, the crankshaft itself isn't lined up.
That's why you probe to make sure the hole is there.
And BTW, that's also a good sign to know you need to replace the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer/damper...if the TDC mark is off by more than a couple degrees the pulley is failing and could either continue to walk around or even migrate inwards and damage the crankcase or migrate outwards and fly off the crankshaft.
In the old days I would take a scribe or magic marker and mark a line radially on the harmonic balancer. When the line broke it was a sign the balancer needed to be replaced because the isolation layer had failed.
This is what happens/looks like a failed balancer:
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