Just did cam adjuster seals on 2.8L 30V here is the procedure...
06-03-2005, 07:10 PM
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Just did cam adjuster seals on 2.8L 30V here is the procedure...
DISCLAMER: I assume no liability for the accuracy. You are at your own risk. This is for educational purposes only ;-)
PROPS: Eric 2.7L for great tips.
------------------------------------------
I did the passenger and driver side cam adjuster seals. The seal consists of two pieces - flat metal gasket and a half-circle (moon) seal. This procedure is dedicated to begginning wrench turners like myself. Seasoned mechanics may be bored with my overall level of detail, so please bear with me. This is not Bentley-like procedure. This is procedure "for dummies."
You will need: 2 half circle gaskets, two flat seals that go under adjuster, 2 valve cover gaskets, and 1 3366 tool to compress tensioner. I got everything from BLAU and the tool is a rental so I will return when I am done.
Let's go...
1. Remove all three plastic engine covers.
2. I suggest that you work on the passenger side first (more difficult).
3. Remove the cover over air filter, remove two connectors on top of air filter.
4. Remove the accordion hose connecting filter box to intake.
5. Remove the top portion of filter box.
6. Remove air filter element.
7. Disconnect fuel lines. One line is connected with clamp, other line is connected with a threaded coupling. Be careful: hold one side of the coupling with a wrench while you unscrew the other. You do not want to break the fuel rail.
8. Very little fuel will drip out so you just place the rag underneath to catch the fuel.
9. Remove the 3 plug wires and swing them to the side.
10. Remove the EGR line that runs to the EGR valve and swing it to the side.
11. Remove the two nuts 10mm and 13mm that hold the power steering hose. One bolt is threaded to the valve cover and other is on the back of the block. Follow the line and you will find it. It is tough to get. Suggest to use a ratcher with adjustable angle.
OPTIONAL
12. Remove the air inlet (2 phillips screws) and then take off the timing belt cover to see whether you have any leaks from cam seals. If you do, you are kind of screwed since your repair will be more complex. I had no leaks, timing belt was dry so I concentrated on adjuster seals only.
13. Remove the breather hose from valve cover, unclip all connectors and swing is SUPER CAREFULLY to the side. In case it cracks, have some thick walled tubing handy so you will be able to splice it up later.
14. Remove valve cover nuts (10mm). Gently tap on valve cover and possibly gently pry on one side to "unseal" it. It will pop off.
15. Remove the valve cover and clean it SUPER well with some engine degreaser (Wal-Mart $0.99) and carb cleaner. You should also try to clean the breather outlet (I forgot to do that). This will prevent the leaks in the future.
16. Put the tensioner tool 3366 on the tensioner and GENTLY beging torquing it. You should do not torque it all the way, stop when you see slack in chain.
17. Remove four torx (T-30 I believe) bolts from chain tensioner.
18. Lift tensioner and slowly remove the old flat seal and half-moon seal. You will be able to lift the tensioner about 1 cm. It is not a lot bu enough to clean underneath with some q-tips.
19. Now the fun begins. Clean the area under tensioner with carb cleaner, degreaser q-tips, whataver. You need to get the crap out of the groves, etc.
20. Clean the mating surfaces for the valve cover. Use brake cleaner, q-tips to get into groves. Everything must be clean and dry or your engine will leak again.
21. slip the new half-circle seal in place carefully. Then, slip the flat seal in place. Make sure the seal fits on the notches. You will notice that the seal has some silicone on it, so no need to add any additional sillicone on the flat seal.
22. Bolt the tensioner back and carefully undo the 3366 tool.
23. Place the new valve cover gasket on the head and install the valve cover.
24. Torque the valve cover evenly a bit a a time.
25. Reinstall the power steering hose connections.
26. Plug EGR vacuum hose back.
27. Reconnect fuel lines.
28. Reconnect spark plugs.
29. Reinstall the air inlet, TB cover (if you removed for inspecton, air filter, air box, etc.
30. See if you have any parts left over. If not, you are in good shape.
31. Move on to the driver's side.
Driver side is similar than passenger, except it is easier bec. the tensioner is in front of you. Remove the coolant reservoir for easy acess (3 phillips screws). Rest of procedure is similar to passenger side.
Good luck... You have saved yourself a good chunk of change. If you replaced the suction jet pump, cleaned you breather lines you should not have to worry for cam adjuster seal leaks for a while. NO MORE BURNT OIL SMELL, YEAH!
PROPS: Eric 2.7L for great tips.
------------------------------------------
I did the passenger and driver side cam adjuster seals. The seal consists of two pieces - flat metal gasket and a half-circle (moon) seal. This procedure is dedicated to begginning wrench turners like myself. Seasoned mechanics may be bored with my overall level of detail, so please bear with me. This is not Bentley-like procedure. This is procedure "for dummies."
You will need: 2 half circle gaskets, two flat seals that go under adjuster, 2 valve cover gaskets, and 1 3366 tool to compress tensioner. I got everything from BLAU and the tool is a rental so I will return when I am done.
Let's go...
1. Remove all three plastic engine covers.
2. I suggest that you work on the passenger side first (more difficult).
3. Remove the cover over air filter, remove two connectors on top of air filter.
4. Remove the accordion hose connecting filter box to intake.
5. Remove the top portion of filter box.
6. Remove air filter element.
7. Disconnect fuel lines. One line is connected with clamp, other line is connected with a threaded coupling. Be careful: hold one side of the coupling with a wrench while you unscrew the other. You do not want to break the fuel rail.
8. Very little fuel will drip out so you just place the rag underneath to catch the fuel.
9. Remove the 3 plug wires and swing them to the side.
10. Remove the EGR line that runs to the EGR valve and swing it to the side.
11. Remove the two nuts 10mm and 13mm that hold the power steering hose. One bolt is threaded to the valve cover and other is on the back of the block. Follow the line and you will find it. It is tough to get. Suggest to use a ratcher with adjustable angle.
OPTIONAL
12. Remove the air inlet (2 phillips screws) and then take off the timing belt cover to see whether you have any leaks from cam seals. If you do, you are kind of screwed since your repair will be more complex. I had no leaks, timing belt was dry so I concentrated on adjuster seals only.
13. Remove the breather hose from valve cover, unclip all connectors and swing is SUPER CAREFULLY to the side. In case it cracks, have some thick walled tubing handy so you will be able to splice it up later.
14. Remove valve cover nuts (10mm). Gently tap on valve cover and possibly gently pry on one side to "unseal" it. It will pop off.
15. Remove the valve cover and clean it SUPER well with some engine degreaser (Wal-Mart $0.99) and carb cleaner. You should also try to clean the breather outlet (I forgot to do that). This will prevent the leaks in the future.
16. Put the tensioner tool 3366 on the tensioner and GENTLY beging torquing it. You should do not torque it all the way, stop when you see slack in chain.
17. Remove four torx (T-30 I believe) bolts from chain tensioner.
18. Lift tensioner and slowly remove the old flat seal and half-moon seal. You will be able to lift the tensioner about 1 cm. It is not a lot bu enough to clean underneath with some q-tips.
19. Now the fun begins. Clean the area under tensioner with carb cleaner, degreaser q-tips, whataver. You need to get the crap out of the groves, etc.
20. Clean the mating surfaces for the valve cover. Use brake cleaner, q-tips to get into groves. Everything must be clean and dry or your engine will leak again.
21. slip the new half-circle seal in place carefully. Then, slip the flat seal in place. Make sure the seal fits on the notches. You will notice that the seal has some silicone on it, so no need to add any additional sillicone on the flat seal.
22. Bolt the tensioner back and carefully undo the 3366 tool.
23. Place the new valve cover gasket on the head and install the valve cover.
24. Torque the valve cover evenly a bit a a time.
25. Reinstall the power steering hose connections.
26. Plug EGR vacuum hose back.
27. Reconnect fuel lines.
28. Reconnect spark plugs.
29. Reinstall the air inlet, TB cover (if you removed for inspecton, air filter, air box, etc.
30. See if you have any parts left over. If not, you are in good shape.
31. Move on to the driver's side.
Driver side is similar than passenger, except it is easier bec. the tensioner is in front of you. Remove the coolant reservoir for easy acess (3 phillips screws). Rest of procedure is similar to passenger side.
Good luck... You have saved yourself a good chunk of change. If you replaced the suction jet pump, cleaned you breather lines you should not have to worry for cam adjuster seal leaks for a while. NO MORE BURNT OIL SMELL, YEAH!
12-28-2005, 04:38 PM
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Just did cam adjuster seals on 2.8L 30V here is the procedure...problems
Nice Writeup but I am in trouble now. I am half way through. After I inserted the 3366 tool and pressed the cam adjusters down I don`t seem to get any slack it seems like it is pulling the chain down with it. I have the top compressed all the way down.
Do you remove the 3366 special tool before unscrewing and removing the tensioner?
Do I have to remove the intake cam? There seem to be a descrepancy in the writeups. Some do not require it to be removed...
Do you remove the 3366 special tool before unscrewing and removing the tensioner?
Do I have to remove the intake cam? There seem to be a descrepancy in the writeups. Some do not require it to be removed...
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