just wanted to share some pics and see if anyone could tell from the pic if the pads were glazed or
#1
just wanted to share some pics and see if anyone could tell from the pic if the pads were glazed or
needed resurfacing. the new pbr ceramics are squealing awfully loud when reaching to a stop from about 15mph-0. I've tried semi-metallics of various brands and these are my first set of ceramics (from recs about them being quieter...lol) next pads i'll try are hawk hps or yellow stuff ebc to get rid of the squeal
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109130/ps_frnt_brake.jpg">
passenger front
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109130/ps_frnt_brake1.jpg">
passenger front
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109130/dr_frnt_brake.jpg">
driver front
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109130/ps_frnt_brake.jpg">
passenger front
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109130/ps_frnt_brake1.jpg">
passenger front
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109130/dr_frnt_brake.jpg">
driver front
#4
actually the pic doesn't do it justice these are the original rotors with about 76k miles and there
is a noticeable ridge on the outside edges...do they look like they are glazed?
#5
AudiWorld Super User
The unworn annular rings either side of the active friction surface are good for two reasons...
1. Rotors tend to wear true. Yours are dead true independent of hub mating surface runouts, as long as you maintain the rotor to hub orientation for life. I center punch adjacent marks on hub and rotor for this purpose.
2. The raised annular rings make great 4 wheel, 8 surface passive pad wear sensors. The rings will be first to contact the pad's backing plate with a "can't miss" audible noise. The active sensors are just in the way, to be cut off.
Those rotors look beautiful!
2. The raised annular rings make great 4 wheel, 8 surface passive pad wear sensors. The rings will be first to contact the pad's backing plate with a "can't miss" audible noise. The active sensors are just in the way, to be cut off.
Those rotors look beautiful!
#6
AudiWorld Super User
The typical mounting hub on any (never maintained) brake lathe has 0.005 to 0.010" TIR runout,..
which translates 3 or 4x at the rotor OD. Why pay to have good rotors screwed up while throwing away good material? The system, brake lathes and minimum wear specs, IMO are designed to sell new rotors.
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#8
You simply need more break-in time/mileage and not resurfacing. The existing ridge is rubbing
against the side of the new pads. This will go away with some more miles. I know the noise is irritating, but I had the same thing when I last put in new pads and it will disappear after a while. You can speed up the process by braking harder while coming to a stop instead of easing to a stop.
#9
2nd.
Do about 6 really hard stops from 60-10mph with at least a 1/2 mile inbetween w/o braking. After you do all 6 stops then drive for about 15 min w/o touching the brakes to let them cool gradually and evenly with lots of airflow.
You either need a deserted express way or a long seconday road with little to no traffic and no stop signs or traffic lights to do this procedure.
You can do this any time your brakes are making noise or pulsing like what many people incorrectly describe as warped rotors. The pulsing is caused bu uneven pad material build up on the rotor.
You either need a deserted express way or a long seconday road with little to no traffic and no stop signs or traffic lights to do this procedure.
You can do this any time your brakes are making noise or pulsing like what many people incorrectly describe as warped rotors. The pulsing is caused bu uneven pad material build up on the rotor.
#10
Plus, rotor mass is proportional to stopping power: brakes turn motion energy into heat energy and
the metal in the rotors absorb that heat. Resurfacing removes mass, which leaves less metal to absorb the heat, which can ultimately reduce stopping power.
Over time, the rotors transfer the heat to the air (and to the wheels and tires), but during a stop there is no time for the air to cool the rotors so all the energy goes into increasing the temp of the rotors.
Over time, the rotors transfer the heat to the air (and to the wheels and tires), but during a stop there is no time for the air to cool the rotors so all the energy goes into increasing the temp of the rotors.
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