New Audi A6 Quattro 2.7t Owner
#11
Thanks for the input
I apologize for asking a bunch of questions. I currently am working 3 Jobs and have no time for anything.
I'm a recognized contributor on other forums(non-audi related) and know better to be using the search feature
I'll just keep quiet if thats the case, a Mod can kill this thread if they wish
I apologize for asking a bunch of questions. I currently am working 3 Jobs and have no time for anything.
I'm a recognized contributor on other forums(non-audi related) and know better to be using the search feature
I'll just keep quiet if thats the case, a Mod can kill this thread if they wish
#12
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I wasn't speaking as much to you, I also am semi-serious, that i shoulda known better to use the search system. But I have little time and even now I'm on my lunch break for 30 minutes writing this message.
I also have to go pickup an Audi C5 A6 (4.2L) With what i assume is a shot T/C. I didn't want someone to write a book but maybe links or even a good start like the advice from @johnkk
I also have to go pickup an Audi C5 A6 (4.2L) With what i assume is a shot T/C. I didn't want someone to write a book but maybe links or even a good start like the advice from @johnkk
#13
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Sorry for posting again but I just realized there was the above mention. Thanks, I'll look into it, first going to do an output test on the motor and see if it spins
the "diverter valve" i mention is something someone else called it, it's the valve that electrically controls which cat to push air into. not the turbo diverter "recirculation" valves
the "diverter valve" i mention is something someone else called it, it's the valve that electrically controls which cat to push air into. not the turbo diverter "recirculation" valves
#15
On the coolant leak, you may want to check before going in there. The plastic T-stat housings can crack, especially if not (ahem) handled properly. There's a little ledge under the housing where you can see the drip with an inspection mirror. Of course, the hose coming off the housing could be loose or bad at the housing end also.
#16
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this valve that someone explained to me appears to be vacuum driven and simultaneous, Again went by someone elses explanation which is why I'm here in the first place.
thanks for the input on the coolant leak, I currently had to move my 2.7t back into the lot as i got a 4.2 A6 as well with a blow T/C and i need to fix that first. So It'll be a few days before I have a chance to get the 2.7t back into the service positon and inspect all of that, I'm still working on preparing for the timing belt and also getting other parts i need like the headlights(damage to driver headlight auto leveling mechanism, the plastic arm snapped off, passenger is faded)
I recall some ford having the plastic t-stat housing crack and there were aftermarket aluminum housings to fix that issue, is there such an option for the 2.7t?
I notice the coolant pouring out of right under the crankshaft pulley, which makes it stream down the front and drip off the oil pan, it leaks fast enough that i can lose half a gallon of water in less than 2 hours of just sitting without the engine running
Regarding the secondary air injection, i first need to verify that the fan spins, the intake isn't clogged, and that the diagrams open(meaning the solenoid also has to work)?
I'm very busy so thanks for all your help. Being a 20yr old Female in the automotive industry is difficult. And thats just 2 of my 3 jobs
thanks for the input on the coolant leak, I currently had to move my 2.7t back into the lot as i got a 4.2 A6 as well with a blow T/C and i need to fix that first. So It'll be a few days before I have a chance to get the 2.7t back into the service positon and inspect all of that, I'm still working on preparing for the timing belt and also getting other parts i need like the headlights(damage to driver headlight auto leveling mechanism, the plastic arm snapped off, passenger is faded)
I recall some ford having the plastic t-stat housing crack and there were aftermarket aluminum housings to fix that issue, is there such an option for the 2.7t?
I notice the coolant pouring out of right under the crankshaft pulley, which makes it stream down the front and drip off the oil pan, it leaks fast enough that i can lose half a gallon of water in less than 2 hours of just sitting without the engine running
Regarding the secondary air injection, i first need to verify that the fan spins, the intake isn't clogged, and that the diagrams open(meaning the solenoid also has to work)?
I'm very busy so thanks for all your help. Being a 20yr old Female in the automotive industry is difficult. And thats just 2 of my 3 jobs
#17
Do you have the repair manual? Replacing water pump involves moving the front-end to service position. It's all detailed in the manual. At that point, it makes sense to do the timing belt and replace rollers etc., as per maintenance schedule.
There are few that offer "kits". Blauparts.com, Ecstuning.com and others... Make sure to rent the required tools to lock cams and crankshaft etc.
When I said you started off with full tank of gas, I meant your loaded first post It's all good.
There are few that offer "kits". Blauparts.com, Ecstuning.com and others... Make sure to rent the required tools to lock cams and crankshaft etc.
When I said you started off with full tank of gas, I meant your loaded first post It's all good.
#18
Oh yeah....the auto leveling system stinks! Mine went all the way down and right so I could see nothing! I just disconnected mine, adjusted the headlights and the few folks who "flash" me when I hit a bump can just deal with it.
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