Harleyguy

With the new axle/ or repacked CV the joint looses a little flexibility. Also you do not want to fully insert the spline stub fully until the inner flange is in place. I know you are finished now so this is too late. Passenger side, the inner end needs to be lifted up and to the front to allow the insertion of the spline end, steering turned nearly full left. Screw in the axle retainer bolt just a few threads so the stub doesn't pull back out.

Also now that it is back together you will probably need to get an alignment. Un-doing the lower ball joints/ control arms affects the alignment. The uppers don't. That's why I only disconnected the uppers. Sounds like you did well. Congratulations!!!

milla290

I TRIED to remove the LCA'S but couldn't release the studs from the spindle. They were never removed. I only removed the uppers. No alignment needed.
Test drivery revealed just super minor vibration upon acceleration to around 50mph, which I'm chalking up to worn control arm bushings (although not bad), tires slightly put of balance and I may not have tighten the inner 6 flange bolts in a star pattern. I think I tightened the first 3 in a row, then remembered to go in a zig-zag fashion. I was spent by that time...Lol.
Thanks

Harleyguy

Did you use a torque wrench on the inner flange bolts? If memory serves they are to be tightened to something like about 50ft.lb. Some folks use blue lock-tite on them to be sure they don't loosen up. As for the minor vibration, it could be worthwhile to loosen and re-torque the inner flange bolts. Mine had a corrosion transfer outline imprint on the transmission flange and I was also careful to spin the axle around so the imprint matched the original position of the axle prior to disassembly. If that makes sense.
For future reference; a "pickle fork" ball joint tool is usually necessary to get the ball joints loose. Even so you also should use a cold chisel to spread the hole where the ball joint shank fits into the spindle. After removing the pinch bolt use the chisel to open up the gap on both sides of the spindle. Same applies to the uppers. Only open it enough to allow the extraction of the shank of the ball joint. A little PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil will also help with removal.

milla290

I did use a torque wrench ( I went and bought one specifically for this job) but read the specs being anywhere from 31 ft lbs to 50, so I went 40 and used blue Loctite. There was no corrosion on the transmission flange so in turn, no reference marks.
The spindle doesn't spread where the lower ball joints insert, and I didn't see a lower pinch bolt. I'm still not sure why I couldn't remove the lowers from the spindle but I'm glad I didn't. I did use a pickle fork, careful not to damage the bushings. As far as the uppers, the pinch bolt and removal of the ball joints was easy. I believe this in part to be the car's history, well maintained, low mileage (just over 100k for a 2000), warm weather one owner. My S4 gave me no issues either, but that was most likely due to the fact that it had previous suspension work having the Stassis coilovers installed.
The wife drove the A6 to work Friday morning and experienced no vibration other than what's caused by worn bushings on the left side UCA'S which are getting replaced next weekend.

4Driver4

Bentley cautions against doing this. Do not attempt to spread the openings in the upright in any way.

TFT

Can any of you guys provided the links to the videos of this procedure.
I did not find anything specific to the C5 A6 4.2

Harleyguy