PROCEDURE TO FIX 4.2L COOLANT LEAK!
04-09-2013, 06:48 AM
#21
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04-10-2013, 11:14 AM
#22
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$60 bucks for 1 gallon of antifreeze and 2 o-rings!
06-17-2014, 08:12 PM
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06-18-2014, 08:16 AM
#24
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Google is your friend.
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES10068/
Interestingly, or frustratingly, the item doesn't show a reference number on the part explosion but the p/n comes up on the list of parts.
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES10068/
Interestingly, or frustratingly, the item doesn't show a reference number on the part explosion but the p/n comes up on the list of parts.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 06-18-2014 at 08:22 AM.
01-29-2019, 09:22 AM
#26
AudiWorld Junior Member
Due to all the emails I have been receiving, I have summarized this procedure for all those owners who have experienced the notorious coolant leak from the right side of the engine block. I imagine that eventually all 4.2 owners will need this fix due to the design flaw. If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools, I would suggest doing the job yourself.
The coolant leak drove me absolutely nuts for 6 months. I replaced the water pump and hoses with no success......that was a huge job in itself. The local Audi dealer stated I needed a new head gasket, so I figured I would try the following procedure as a last resort.
What happens is that the plastic union between the block and the oil cooler cracks and leaks coolant . The leak will appear around the right side of the oil pan(at the backside)
The procedure is as follows:
1.Drain all coolant (there are two drain ***** on the block L + R sides).
2.remove oil filter
3.remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
4.undo swaybar from passenger side (loosen drivers side)
5 remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. go nuts removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place ( the top ones are a bitch and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall)
-if at this point you think that this is impossible..it almost is...........but persevere....you will get it done!
7.Inspect the plastic pipe for cracks and then after you are done swearing at the $8 part and you smash it with a hammer like I did, you can install the new one with NEW o-rings.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list off the top of my head:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-o ring kit for plastic union pipe
-o- ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi pentosin coolant (8 litres)
-distilled H20 (8 litres)
-new oil filter and washer
-new accessory belt since you are at it
I think the total parts were $50 plus the belt and coolant.
This job is all labour!
Count on 8 hours and Goodluck!
R. DIOCEE
Winnipeg, Manitoba
The coolant leak drove me absolutely nuts for 6 months. I replaced the water pump and hoses with no success......that was a huge job in itself. The local Audi dealer stated I needed a new head gasket, so I figured I would try the following procedure as a last resort.
What happens is that the plastic union between the block and the oil cooler cracks and leaks coolant . The leak will appear around the right side of the oil pan(at the backside)
The procedure is as follows:
1.Drain all coolant (there are two drain ***** on the block L + R sides).
2.remove oil filter
3.remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
4.undo swaybar from passenger side (loosen drivers side)
5 remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. go nuts removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place ( the top ones are a bitch and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall)
-if at this point you think that this is impossible..it almost is...........but persevere....you will get it done!
7.Inspect the plastic pipe for cracks and then after you are done swearing at the $8 part and you smash it with a hammer like I did, you can install the new one with NEW o-rings.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list off the top of my head:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-o ring kit for plastic union pipe
-o- ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi pentosin coolant (8 litres)
-distilled H20 (8 litres)
-new oil filter and washer
-new accessory belt since you are at it
I think the total parts were $50 plus the belt and coolant.
This job is all labour!
Count on 8 hours and Goodluck!
R. DIOCEE
Winnipeg, Manitoba
01-31-2019, 07:39 PM
#27
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Audi a6 v8 quattro 2002
03-11-2019, 07:18 AM
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Help! My A8 is leaking coolant from the drain plug on the oil cooler,
Due to all the emails I have been receiving, I have summarized this procedure for all those owners who have experienced the notorious coolant leak from the right side of the engine block. I imagine that eventually all 4.2 owners will need this fix due to the design flaw. If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools, I would suggest doing the job yourself.
The coolant leak drove me absolutely nuts for 6 months. I replaced the water pump and hoses with no success......that was a huge job in itself. The local Audi dealer stated I needed a new head gasket, so I figured I would try the following procedure as a last resort.
What happens is that the plastic union between the block and the oil cooler cracks and leaks coolant . The leak will appear around the right side of the oil pan(at the backside)
The procedure is as follows:
1.Drain all coolant (there are two drain ***** on the block L + R sides).
2.remove oil filter
3.remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
4.undo swaybar from passenger side (loosen drivers side)
5 remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. go nuts removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place ( the top ones are a bitch and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall)
-if at this point you think that this is impossible..it almost is...........but persevere....you will get it done!
7.Inspect the plastic pipe for cracks and then after you are done swearing at the $8 part and you smash it with a hammer like I did, you can install the new one with NEW o-rings.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list off the top of my head:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-o ring kit for plastic union pipe
-o- ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi pentosin coolant (8 litres)
-distilled H20 (8 litres)
-new oil filter and washer
-new accessory belt since you are at it
I think the total parts were $50 plus the belt and coolant.
This job is all labour!
Count on 8 hours and Goodluck!
R. DIOCEE
Winnipeg, Manitoba
The coolant leak drove me absolutely nuts for 6 months. I replaced the water pump and hoses with no success......that was a huge job in itself. The local Audi dealer stated I needed a new head gasket, so I figured I would try the following procedure as a last resort.
What happens is that the plastic union between the block and the oil cooler cracks and leaks coolant . The leak will appear around the right side of the oil pan(at the backside)
The procedure is as follows:
1.Drain all coolant (there are two drain ***** on the block L + R sides).
2.remove oil filter
3.remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
4.undo swaybar from passenger side (loosen drivers side)
5 remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. go nuts removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place ( the top ones are a bitch and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall)
-if at this point you think that this is impossible..it almost is...........but persevere....you will get it done!
7.Inspect the plastic pipe for cracks and then after you are done swearing at the $8 part and you smash it with a hammer like I did, you can install the new one with NEW o-rings.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list off the top of my head:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-o ring kit for plastic union pipe
-o- ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi pentosin coolant (8 litres)
-distilled H20 (8 litres)
-new oil filter and washer
-new accessory belt since you are at it
I think the total parts were $50 plus the belt and coolant.
This job is all labour!
Count on 8 hours and Goodluck!
R. DIOCEE
Winnipeg, Manitoba
03-11-2019, 07:23 AM
#29
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Help! My A8 is leaking coolant from the drain plug on the oil cooler, is it the same?
I've done it...here's some pics.
Do the alternator VR (brushes are worn) if 140K miles or more or close to that.
check your motor mounts...my front one was sheared.
LOL...you'll probably have to put the front end in service position.
Highly recommend some kind of magnetized 8mm hex bit driver or maybe a short ball tip hex bit for that danged center top bolt.
Do the alternator VR (brushes are worn) if 140K miles or more or close to that.
check your motor mounts...my front one was sheared.
LOL...you'll probably have to put the front end in service position.
Highly recommend some kind of magnetized 8mm hex bit driver or maybe a short ball tip hex bit for that danged center top bolt.
03-11-2019, 07:29 AM
#30
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Help! My A8 is leaking coolant from the drain plug on the oil cooler, was yours the s
Due to all the emails I have been receiving, I have summarized this procedure for all those owners who have experienced the notorious coolant leak from the right side of the engine block. I imagine that eventually all 4.2 owners will need this fix due to the design flaw. If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools, I would suggest doing the job yourself.
The coolant leak drove me absolutely nuts for 6 months. I replaced the water pump and hoses with no success......that was a huge job in itself. The local Audi dealer stated I needed a new head gasket, so I figured I would try the following procedure as a last resort.
What happens is that the plastic union between the block and the oil cooler cracks and leaks coolant . The leak will appear around the right side of the oil pan(at the backside)
The procedure is as follows:
1.Drain all coolant (there are two drain ***** on the block L + R sides).
2.remove oil filter
3.remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
4.undo swaybar from passenger side (loosen drivers side)
5 remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. go nuts removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place ( the top ones are a bitch and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall)
-if at this point you think that this is impossible..it almost is...........but persevere....you will get it done!
7.Inspect the plastic pipe for cracks and then after you are done swearing at the $8 part and you smash it with a hammer like I did, you can install the new one with NEW o-rings.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list off the top of my head:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-o ring kit for plastic union pipe
-o- ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi pentosin coolant (8 litres)
-distilled H20 (8 litres)
-new oil filter and washer
-new accessory belt since you are at it
I think the total parts were $50 plus the belt and coolant.
This job is all labour!
Count on 8 hours and Goodluck!
R. DIOCEE
Winnipeg, Manitoba
The coolant leak drove me absolutely nuts for 6 months. I replaced the water pump and hoses with no success......that was a huge job in itself. The local Audi dealer stated I needed a new head gasket, so I figured I would try the following procedure as a last resort.
What happens is that the plastic union between the block and the oil cooler cracks and leaks coolant . The leak will appear around the right side of the oil pan(at the backside)
The procedure is as follows:
1.Drain all coolant (there are two drain ***** on the block L + R sides).
2.remove oil filter
3.remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
4.undo swaybar from passenger side (loosen drivers side)
5 remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. go nuts removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place ( the top ones are a bitch and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall)
-if at this point you think that this is impossible..it almost is...........but persevere....you will get it done!
7.Inspect the plastic pipe for cracks and then after you are done swearing at the $8 part and you smash it with a hammer like I did, you can install the new one with NEW o-rings.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list off the top of my head:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-o ring kit for plastic union pipe
-o- ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi pentosin coolant (8 litres)
-distilled H20 (8 litres)
-new oil filter and washer
-new accessory belt since you are at it
I think the total parts were $50 plus the belt and coolant.
This job is all labour!
Count on 8 hours and Goodluck!
R. DIOCEE
Winnipeg, Manitoba