Can someone direct me to the procedure used to replace the brake fluid in our A6 2.7T cars. I am replacing the fluid with Motul 600.

Also, how much fluid will I need?

Thanks,

 

remove plug, allow fluid to drain.

 

You were probably thinking of oil or making a joke (TraderAlex)

Leonard,
I don't know how much you will need, but if you are venturing into it, I'd imagine you know you need to actuate the ABS to get the old fluid pumped out of there to do it right. I don't know how but the mechanic I use (rarely go to a mechanic) has the tool to do it right. One thing I don't like to work on is the hydraulic lines, I'm paranoid that I'll get a bubble and end up needing my brakes and not have them. I don't ever crack the lines without my dad or my mechanic handy to verify that they are bled properly.

 

Might be better to go to a shop with a power bleeder

 

car. Get a good shop to do it for you paying attention to Dan_L's note re: the anti-lock. Should be quick and inexpensive.

The bike was easy because the lines are so short (and my bike only had two of them going to the front), the car....needs special(er) equipment to bleed the lines.

 

It's easier with a power bleeder, but you can do it with just "pedal pumping"...

1. Start with the drivers side rear wheel. Jack up car, remove wheel.

2. Attach a drain hose to the bleeder nipple (no jokes, plz).

2a. If using power bleeder, add 1 qt (or so) of new fluid) to bleeder and pressurize to 20 psi. If not, skip the step.

3. Open bleeder using a flare nut wrench (don't recall exact size). Drain fluid into sealable container. (I use old plastic coke bottle).

3a. If using "pedal method", pump brakes until new fluid comes out of hose. (It's a 2 person job for this method). Keep brake fluid resevoir topped off...

4. Close bleeder.

5. Reattach wheel (torquing to spec). Lower car to ground....

6. Repeat for passenger front, passenger rear, and driver's front (in that order).

7. For 2001 and later models, you will need to run the ESP pump to get the last of the fluid out. Do this with the drivers front wheel, after you have bled it normally. You will need a VAG tool for this. If you don't have a VAG, I beleive you are hosed. If you do have a VAG, let me know and I'll dig up the coding (it's in the Bently Manual CD). I have a 2000, so I don't have to do this step...

8. Be sure the brake fluid level is within the acceptable marked range. You can bleed some out to lower the level if you need to...

That's "the basics". If you don't have the right tools, it can be a PITA. I learned how to do it so that if I boiled my brake fluid at the track, I had a way to get back out there...

YAMMV...

Dave

PS- If it's just routine maint, go to a shop that has a VAG, and let them do it...

 

I paid an Audi tuner shop, to change my fluid to Motul 600, when I bought the car. When I set up the StopTechs I'm running now, with braided lines, I and a friend did the swap, but since we were still using the Motul 600, we didn't have to worry as much about the ESP/ABS, etc., ...but it was still a pain in the a**. Bleeding in this case, is far easier with all the wheels off; but it can be done one corner at a time, if you don't have a lift, or at least enough jack stands. Bleed, bleed, bleed, and bleed again, is all I can say. Have fun, and be safe.

 

when the old fluid is flushed out and fresh fluid is now in each caliper.

I buy the ATE Super Blue and Amber and alternate between each at every brake fluid change. On the race car, I flush after each track weekend so the different colors make it easier.

 

Excellent idea!

 

It has caused the clutch cylinder to "squeak", and sometimes fail on 6 speed cars (mine included). I haven't heard anyone explain why this is, but it has happened to a number of folks... FYI.

I use the Valvoline Synthetic - good boiling point and not too expensive...