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Yea, the Bentley is worthless, or close to it Make sure you keep the bell housing bolts numbered as the bolts are of different lengths. I am used to the Helm manuals for SBC's and they are extremely specific for all procedures and cost 100 bucks for the service version. The Bentley is terrible. Glad I'm not the only one who thinks so. The youtube video Justin has on engine/trans removal is priceless!
Just seeing this now, but my advice is to take just the trans. I've done it both ways. I prefer dropping both as unit on the sub-frame when parting out, but just the trans when doing repairs. Support the engine, drop the subframe, and you get a ton of room to work.
>> I prefer dropping both as unit on the sub-frame when parting out, but just the trans when doing repairs. Support the engine, drop the subframe, and you get a ton of room to work.
I've validated this approach personally. I agree. :-)
-pulled engine and trans as one and now have separated engine from trans, thanks Osmosis about bell housing bolts because they are different. There were a bunch of cooler lines and wires I had to separate even after I thought I separated most. I honestly just hope they all go back in the right place somehow.
-The torque converter was stuck on the engine so I was confused because I thought it would just separate with tranny (lack of experience) then google-fu helped with details to separate: 3 flex plate bolts needed to be removed through the starter hole, size T55 Torx. Used a 24mm 12-point socket to turn engine to get bolts in starter hole window.
-at point where I would obviously see the seal that needed to be replaced but did not so more google-fooing is in order.
Tips: have a generous work space available. I put my damn car on jacks way too close too the garage door, outside, so it is a beetch to maneuver the engine hoist around since my garage is full of crap. The ground I have is half flat garage concrete and half aggregate exposed surface, nothing rolls or slides nicely.
another update after dicking around with life's chores:
-I couldn't see the seal because it was stuck on the torque converter. Apparently the TC bearing was seized to the TC probably explaining why my Audi was leaking fluid.
Does this require just a new bearing? A new Tranny pump? or a new TC and tranny pump?
I dont want to put any major money into this car and if I can do it myself I will. Thanks for your future input.
Hey bro, Sorry your having such a hard time with the car
quick question for ya. When you pulled the engine and trans as one unit, how did you get the down pipes and trans out? I had a difficult time pulling out the down pipes but I only removed the engine.
As far as the second plastic piece that has the spring, it can be purchased easily, and be sure to get new O rings for the plastic piece...I think they break easily so look on ebay. You will need a new O ring for the pump too. I remember looking at many of these kits on ebay. If the plastic piece is stuck, well, they frequently break, so just buy a new one and get all the plastic out. Continue searching youtube, maybe hit it with some PB Blaster and let it sit over night or just do your best to break it out clean as possible. Once it's out, clean it up with some carb cleaner or parts cleaner and let it dry completely before adding any trans fluid...these cars are sensitive to different fluids and such.
Good luck!
As far as the converter, I got a converter plus the thrust bearings with the P0741 code fix on the converter for 300 or 250 (can't remember which price) but shipped to my door with excellent service by a company on Ebay called starparts777. They will do ya right! Just remember, when doing this project to label everything you take apart and to put all parts in bags, label them and be very organized. Take lots of pictures with your phone!!!
Note* The fly wheel that bolts to the crank and converter uses torque to yield bolts just like the rods and head bolts, so you have to get new bolts for the reassembly ..One time use so they will not hold up if you try and use them again.
Are you rebuilding the engine too? I figure since it's out, new bearings, gaskets and rings might be in order. I rebuild my starter for 25 bucks, alternator for 45, new CV joints also...since it was all out, I did not want to get into this project for some time. I'm sure ya understand at this point in the game Any questions, fire away
Thanks Osmosis, there you go again speaking Chinese and stuff! Youre just trying to confuse me.
Yeah, I sourced out the parts needed, thanks to the wonderful internet. Unfortunately you have the "buy at Autozone and your car will blow up!" quality and then there's the made by the magical fairies of Germany quality with a price.
As far as the downpipes are concerned I ended up unbolting them from where ever they were attached, nothing by the book, just another remove a bolt until it comes loose way of doing things. If you need pictures of them sitting on the ground just let me know.
Any reason why you went with that specific ebay shop? The prices are all over the place on the internet but a local shop does TC rebuilds locally (what they specialize in) for $295, 2 year warranty. Again, who knows if they are good or just use the same stuff as everyone else.
ps, my problem after all this troubleshooting seemed to be a transmission oil pump failure which led to the bearing and seal failing, which seized the bearing on the TC. Do you think just removing the stuck bearing and reusing the TC is smart? It will save me about $300.
Another update for anyone who is keeping track or needs help because all the videos I posted above were to a different tranny.
-if you have the 5HP19FLA, like mine, you will not have 2 plastic tubes holding your oil pump in, it will look like this instead:
-You will have to remove 5 black tubes from front holes and clip, spring, small rubber tube at bottom of the rear 3 holes.
-Also, you must remove differential! Ahh, pita but just extra steps to do.
(remove small center bolt, Loosen final drive cover bolts in sequence -12 to 1- and then remove completely.
Caution
Slowly and carefully remove final drive cover from transmission housing. Otherwise differential can fall out of transmission.
A differential that has fallen onto the floor must not be installed again. The transmission must be replaced in this case.
– Remove final drive cover.
Caution
Ensure tapered roller bearing outer race and differential adjusting screw do not fall out of final drive cover.
Tapered roller bearing outer race must be installed in the same location.
The shim must be the correct size and must not be replaced by a shim with a different thickness.
-Carefully remove differential
-Completely cover splines -arrow- on left flange shaft with insulating tape without wrinkling or overlapping to avoid damaging final drive/transmission housing double shaft seal when removing left flange shaft.
-Remove left drive flange mounting bracket -arrows-.
– Pull out left drive flange.
Note: When sliding off, left drive flange must be carefully guided by hand to prevent damage to the double seal in final drive/transmission housing.
I read somewhere where they want the tranny oil pump facing the sky so that gravity will keep the rest in place, I have mine on a cherry picker holding it up, took everything off like this.
-I used 2 vise grips to pull on oil pump, was hard to do so stuck a large screwdriver in between sun gear? and pushed up. There is a small hole that you will obviously see.
Hope this helps someone because my google-fu didn't find anything apparent.
Wow! Looks like you have your work cut out for ya! As far as the bearing....at this point, I would ask a trans shop. If you can pull the pump, sounds like that is something that needs to be replaced. You can rebuild it yourself, but I've seen them on ebay for the price of parts. Or your local trans shop can do it.
Good luck with the project! Looks like things are going ok
Okay, after a year of sitting on 4 jack stands she finally has the tranny and engine back in!
-G-damned if it wasn't a chore and hassle to make sure all the plugs and hoses went back into their correct locations with many plug holders broken along the way. Once you dedicate so much time to figuring out where everything goes it doesnt seem to difficult to do.
But here is where I am at: the g-damned car wont start!!!
-I've been maintaining my battery's voltage all year and was at about 12.55 volts stand alone.
-topped off the power steering and radiator fluids.
-the same gas for a year has been sitting in the tank and at about 3/4 full.
-topped off the tranny fluid and was about to start the vag com refill procedure and then, no start.
Any help would be appreciated for sure. I'm certain I might be dicking up a restart procedure somewhere.
Thanks.
ps, I have not installed the CV drive axles or front bumper as I want to make sure the car starts first, dont know if this makes a difference though.
05-26-2017, 09:45 PM
Make sure you keep the bell housing bolts numbered as the bolts are of different lengths. I am used to the Helm manuals for SBC's and they are extremely specific for all procedures and cost 100 bucks for the service version. The Bentley is terrible. Glad I'm not the only one who thinks so. The youtube video Justin has on engine/trans removal is priceless!
Any questions, fire away 
