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Pulling back the Heater Core hose by the firewall to bleed the cooling system

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Old 08-19-2011, 05:45 PM
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Default Pulling back the Heater Core hose by the firewall to bleed the cooling system

'01 2.8ATQ Quattro

I've searched the archives best I could, but something doesn't seem right with the hose, it does not budge!

It feels like I'll end up pulling the the hard line out of the heater core before the hose will ever move. Does anyone have any tricks or tips to maneuvering this hose back?

For the moment I'm using a hose pick to pull the hose slightly up off the pipe to let the air out the system, but I'm constantly having to re-find the sweet spot to get the air to bleed out properly, then at times I get (or at least looks like) neither bubbles or coolant coming out, so I need to slide the hose back so that I know I'm doing this properly.

To make matters worse, the other bleeder screw to the front of the manifold is stripped (found that way) and the car is still running hot. I'm praying it's the air in the system causing this.

Left it alone for the night and I'll be taking another crack at it early in the morning.

Any assistance is much appreciated

Last edited by OGBULLYLOCDAWG; 08-19-2011 at 05:47 PM.
Old 08-19-2011, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by OGBULLYLOCDAWG
For the moment I'm using a hose pick to pull the hose slightly up off the pipe to let the air out the system,
That's how I do it.

Have you tried tapping the 5 mm allen into the front bleeder. That hole is super deep and very hard to strip out.
Old 08-19-2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
That's how I do it.
That's where I got the tip via the forum archives, lol. Before that I was looking like Rocky Balboa training in Russia (Rocky IV) trying to pull that hose back.

Have you tried tapping the 5 mm allen into the front bleeder. That hole is super deep and very hard to strip out.
Not yet, but will do in the morning and see how it goes.

Much appreciated once again, 4Driver4.


BTW, after having asked about the slight play on the tensioner after torquing it down, I put everything back together and started it up, all seems well with the timing.
Old 08-20-2011, 12:13 PM
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its because that line has been clamped on for so long . I found this by far the hardest part of the timing job. You need to work it with a flat blade screwdriver all the way around until you can twist it right off ,, keep working under the rubber ,, be patient it will come.. remember it hads been clamped on tight for over 10 years or so .. oncce you have the seal broken all the way around it will be easier to move.
Old 08-20-2011, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
That's how I do it.

Have you tried tapping the 5 mm allen into the front bleeder. That hole is super deep and very hard to strip out.
Hammering in the Allen did the trick, now I'm able to bleed from both points.


Originally Posted by Airbag
its because that line has been clamped on for so long . I found this by far the hardest part of the timing job. You need to work it with a flat blade screwdriver all the way around until you can twist it right off ,, keep working under the rubber ,, be patient it will come.. remember it hads been clamped on tight for over 10 years or so .. oncce you have the seal broken all the way around it will be easier to move.
Yup, just did that with the pick, went around a few times and started pulling around the area where you can see the end of the pipe bulging through the hose and surely enough, the pipe slid right off after applying a little force. It probably helped a bit from the bleeding attempts yesterday with the coolant leaking within the hose the help loosen it a bit.


Looks like I may need to change the coolant temp sensor, as I turned the car on this morning after it sat overnight.. the coolant gauge jumped directly to center and only went higher from there.
Old 08-20-2011, 04:16 PM
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Nice jerb!

Hose hook or cotter pin tool definitely makes the hose release easier fer sur.

LOL at the temp gauge. Pretty easy diagnosis there!
Old 08-20-2011, 04:42 PM
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how do you know if your car needs a coolant sensor ? . just walk around front .. if you see 4 rings ... it does ..
Old 08-22-2011, 03:35 PM
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^^Ain't that the truth! lol.

Coolant Temp Sensor installed and the gauge is finally sitting directly in the middle as should while idling in the garage, so far so good.

I had to do the CTS job twice because I didn't get it seated right the first time (leaked). The old o-ring was still in the pipe crusty as ever, looking nothing like black rubber! Took everything apart again, got it seated correctly and sealing properly.

Managed to break another part of the PCV plastic (part of the lower connection down in the back by the throttle body) during the second attempt.

After idling for a while to make sure it still wasn't running hot and making sure things looked in order. I turned the car off and decided to step out of the garage for some fresh air and a little moment of joy & self congratulations -- only to hear the upper radiator hose hiss and pop off of the radiator behind me, lol.

I wasn't too mad! I was glad it happened in the garage instead of on the side of the road somewhere & I still had distilled water in the system (I've flushed it like 10x trying to get all traces of the old green universal coolant (previous owner) out of there so that I can replace it with the G12. Hopefully I get it nice and snug and I'll recheck and re-clamp the lower hose while I'm at it just to be on the safe side.

Did managed to pull something in my lower back trying to get that dang harness off the sensor (excruciating pain!!)

But even with the pain and all.. I'm feeling pretty good!

Don't know where I'd be on this project without the DIY's and help from you guys here on AW. It's getting less and less intimidating, while becoming more & more rewarding putting a wrench to the ole girl myself.

Much Appreciated!
Old 08-22-2011, 04:39 PM
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quite honestly if i had flushed it like you did i wouldnt bother with the G12 ..over priced stuff. i would go with peak global or something more reasonably priced . pretty well all the coolants are good for aluminum engines now.

good luck
Old 08-23-2011, 04:07 PM
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Put a new O-ring in with the CTS!!


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