Replace center crank bolt on 4.2 TB/seal job?
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#12
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I would try some mouse milk seal leak additive
A6Gary and RedneckTruck,
Thanks for the advice! I bought the dealer crank bolt at $19, but don't know if I will replace crank seal or not.
Crank seal is dry for sure, and I'm only getting slight seepage at cam tensioner gaskets/half moon plugs, and I'm thinking of doing all the cam seals, tensioner gaskets, and plug on both sides, and VC gasket, but it's a daunting task if I have to remove both cams on each side to replace all the seals.
Thanks for the advice! I bought the dealer crank bolt at $19, but don't know if I will replace crank seal or not.
Crank seal is dry for sure, and I'm only getting slight seepage at cam tensioner gaskets/half moon plugs, and I'm thinking of doing all the cam seals, tensioner gaskets, and plug on both sides, and VC gasket, but it's a daunting task if I have to remove both cams on each side to replace all the seals.
If you're running dino oil (non synthetic) I would not recommend the factory
10K miles between oil changes. Nor would I recommend changing to synthetic at 130K miles although the seal swell with various modern synthetics may well work out for you.
BTW, I had a little bit of clatter on startup with 5W-30 synthetic…it went away with 15W-40 Amsoil marine/diesel oil. I think the heavier viscosity helped the leak down in the tensioners on an older 2K4.2A6 with 190K miles on it…my S6 has right around 130K also.
#13
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What are the part numbers for the Crankshaft Bolt, and TB Tensioner bolt, and can I get them from...
audimonster100
Audi 100 / A6 (C4 Platform)
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05-23-2008 03:46 PM