Txchuki4life20

Well first off I just bought a 1999 Audi a6 Quattro 2.8 n/a so I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Yesterday the car started to stutter when I accelerate. It feels like the car just starts missing.
It was kinda cofusing the list of obd codes. It was general list of codes so im not sure if they were all right, and for my audi a6. Also some of the codes were the same type of code but the code number was diffrent(you will c)Here are the codes it threw.If some one can confirm my codes are right that would b great.

P1136- long term fuel trim add. Air, bank one system to lean.
P1129- long term fuel trim, bank 2 system to rich.
P1138- long term fuel trim, bank 2 system to rich
P1127- long term fuel trim mult., bank 1 system to rich.
P1391- camshaft pos. sensor, bank 2 short to ground
P1338- camshaft pos. sensor, bank 1 open circuit.
P1519- intake cam shaft- control. Bank 1.
P1522- intake cam shaft control. Bank 2 malfunction.
P1640- internal control module (EEPROM) error
P1141- load calculation cross check range/performance.
P0302- #2 cylinder miss fire
P0301- #1 cylinder misfire
P0411- secondary air injection incorrect up stream flow.
It also threw p0300 and p0322 I can't find these codes anywhere if anyone knows what they are I really need to know.

So from all these codes I don't really know where to start. Are there any a6 gurus that can help me out???
My guess is something is wrong with the coil packs.

2.7taudi

You should check and perHaps clean the maf with maf cleaner.

Make sure your fuel filter isn't clogged and change it.

The misfires could be worn sparkplugs. The 2.8 doesn't have individual coils. It could be the wires.

Clear all the codes and see which come back after a few days.

Txchuki4life20

Thank you brotha that sounds like a good starting point.
But I would think if the maf sensor was that dirt it would throw the maf code.
I'll clean it any way can't hurt.

Just Me

i dont know one way or the other for sure. But if the MAF is dirty, and that provides insulation ( these are "hot wire" systems), and it sees temp drop X. How does it know that the real value is Y? It should be happy. Wrong, btu happy.

G

Teutonix

The only way to really diagnose this is to get an actual VAG-COM reading of the codes. And first clear the codes and see what comes back. You may be seeing some 5 year old codes in that laundry list that might be misleading. If you don't have access to a VAG-COM, bring it to a good independent local Euro shop for diagnosis at least.

Based on what I'm seeing, it could be anything from a bad coil, to a bad ICM/Power Output Stage, to a failed camshaft adjuster, to a bad ECU, etc etc. On top of that, it looks like your front O2 sensors need replacement, unless someone already replaced them and didn't clear the codes. Based on this, repair costs could be anything from $50 to $2500. If you want to fix this yourself without wasting money, do what I recommended above and report back.

Txchuki4life20

I haven't got a chance to take my car to the shop to get a diagnosis and get the codes cleared. I did get some money together to change the spark plugs and the fuel filter. The plugs were all miss gaped but they didn't look to bad. Except for The one on the driver side closest to the radiator. It was covered in oil from somebody trying to get cute and use rtv to fix a bad gasket . The fuel filter was super clogged I couldn't blow through it at all. I have 2 new questions.
When I changed the plugs and filter it ran great for a bout a mile and a half. then I got on the pedal and the car started stuttering and BACKFIRING. When I got it back it was idiling around 650 and missing hard just like before.
My question is when I took the plugs back out They we're white on the tip. From what I read it's from heat. Which could b many different things from vac leaks to the worng heat range plugs. You guys see a constant between what's going on with my car and these plugs looking like the did after five 10 mins of driving?

Also when I changed my fuel filter was I suposed to bled the fuel system?

Zaphodb17

I would bet any amount of money that you either have a bad spark plug or a bad plug wire. When an engine runs perfectly fine at steady state cruise, but misfires under load, it's ALMOST always an ignition misfire. I just got done with replacing the spark plugs in my 2001 A-6 2.8L Quattro and, of course, it started to misfire as I was taking off at the last minute to pick up my kids. So I went back and got my Ford F-350 to retrieve the children. I searched around my home-town for plug wires thinking that I'd buggered up one of the plug wire extensions that fit down in the head, but after spending $145.00 on new wires, I found the misfire still there. Pulling plug wires, (with thick rubber gloves and making sure I didn't touch any metal on the car with my body) I found a bad NEW spark plug. Go figure... replaced that and all was cool. Good Luck and tell the forum what you found. (so many people never return to say what happened and that's how we all learn...)

Txchuki4life20

Horray some progress. I replaced the wires and fuel filter and she runs much better. It's still got a little miss in it so I'm gonna take it to the shop and get it checked out.

4Driver4

Codes? Did you fix the oil the leak? Has a TBA been done recently?