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Serpentine Tensioner Replacement - Advice Appreciated

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Old 03-24-2014, 02:01 AM
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Default Serpentine Tensioner Replacement - Advice Appreciated

Hi there,

Accessory belt tensioner roller snapped clean off on the way to the store and it ended up at the bottom of the engine compartment. Serp belt is still in tact and there doesn't seem to be any damage to the radiator fan. 2003 A6 2.7T with 126k miles on it. Timing belt and water pump serviced 30k miles ago.

I'd like to save 2-3 hours of shop labor and replace the tensioner and belt myself according to the instructions available throughout YouTube and the forums. I do however have a couple specific questions.

1. Are there any advantages to removing the front end of the car for this job?
2. What other components might I consider replacing while I'm in there?
3. I'd like to check on the condition of the AC Compressor. Are there any typical warning signs I should look out for?
4. How much more helpful would it be to order the Bentley Repair Manual for this particular job?

Please advise.
Old 03-24-2014, 02:47 AM
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Did you check the tech articles?

Does anybody ever check the tech articles?

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng111.shtml
Old 03-24-2014, 07:51 AM
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Hello,
Is there anybody in there
Just nod if you can hear me
Is there anyone at home
Come on now
I hear you're feeling down
I can ease your pain
And get you on your feet again
Relax
I'll need some information first
Just the basic facts
Can you show me where it hurts

There is no pain, you are receding
A distant ship smoke on the horizon
You are only coming through in waves
Your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying
When I was a child I had a fever
My hands felt just like two balloons
Now I've got that feeling once again
I can't explain, you would not understand
This is not how I am
I have become comfortably numb

O.K.
Just a little pin *****
There'll be no more aaaaaaaah!
But you may feel a little sick
Can you stand up?
I do believe it's working, good
That'll keep you going through the show
Come on it's time to go.

There is no pain you are receding
A distant ship smoke on the horizon
You are only coming through in waves
Your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying
When I was a child
I caught a fleeting glimpse
Out of the corner of my eye
I turned to look but it was gone
I cannot put my finger on it now
The child is grown
The dream is gone
And I have become
Comfortably numb.
Old 03-24-2014, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Neosapian
Hi there,

Accessory belt tensioner roller snapped clean off on the way to the store and it ended up at the bottom of the engine compartment. Serp belt is still in tact and there doesn't seem to be any damage to the radiator fan. 2003 A6 2.7T with 126k miles on it. Timing belt and water pump serviced 30k miles ago.

I'd like to save 2-3 hours of shop labor and replace the tensioner and belt myself according to the instructions available throughout YouTube and the forums. I do however have a couple specific questions.

1. Are there any advantages to removing the front end of the car for this job?
Yes. Disadvantage is having to put it back on. To clarify, removing the front of the car is not the same as putting the front into service position. Yes, you definitely should remove the front bumper cover and then slide the radiator/carrier into service position…but you DON'T have to actually remove the radiator/carrier because that's a royal pain involving opening transmission cooler lines and either removing the AC condenser or folding it out of the way. So yes, there is great advantage to going to service position…it's not impossible to replace the tensioner without service position but it's a great deal more difficult…as subsequent posters will tell you!
2. What other components might I consider replacing while I'm in there?
All rotating components that touch the serp belt. Factors vary with component.
3. I'd like to check on the condition of the AC Compressor. Are there any typical warning signs I should look out for?
If it works, leave it alone. There is nothing you can check while in there.
4. How much more helpful would it be to order the Bentley Repair Manual for this particular job?
It is always helpful to have a service manual of some sort. For this job the service manual would tell you how to install the new tensioner…to some it's obvious but to most people who have never done it before it's a trick to bolt on the new tensioner and preload it to get the pin and hold the tensioner back while you run the serp belt, then remove the pin.
Please advise.
More^^^ Answers above:

Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 03-25-2014 at 08:16 AM.
Old 03-24-2014, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Did you check the tech articles?

Does anybody ever check the tech articles?

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng111.shtml
I did indeed, prior to posting. I do however find value in the specific opinions and experience from multiple sources. Hence the existence of Audi World C5 Forums. Admittedly this thread may be better suited for the 2.7T forum.

I value your contribution
Old 03-25-2014, 07:45 AM
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I did this on my 4.2 a couple months ago. Due to limited resources, it would have been a huge pain to remove the front end so I just did the swap with the front end on. Removing the old tensioner was not bad, just tricky to jimmy out (one of those "it only works one way" situations). Getting the new one in and on was an awful nightmare. Very limited room and visibility and I had an extremely difficult time determining if the tensioner was properly seated or not. The back of my hand was pretty scraped up by the radiator fan shroud at the end. Fitting the belt back on was also tricky.

Ultimately, those couple extra inches from removing the front end and putting it in the front lock carrier service position would have easily cut my overall time in half. Definitely would have done that if I were able.

Side note: I thought I kept putting the new tensioner in wrong but I realized I had not removed the locking pin from it so it didn't look right. Obviously, don't remove the pin from the tensioner until it's bolted on the car (it would be difficult and scary to do out of the car anyways), but do take note that it is there and that you must remove it.
Old 03-25-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
More^^^ Answers above:
Like Charles, I too had to suddenly replace this tensioner on my 2k4.2 and had almost exactly the same experience, and knuckle-scraping fun...fanatically endured, to avoid front-end service mode.

Wasn't confused by the locking pin, but it did take some imagination with less-than-perfect tools to unload the tensioner spring after getting the belt in place.
Old 03-26-2014, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by charles 200TQ
I did this on my 4.2 a couple months ago. Due to limited resources, it would have been a huge pain to remove the front end so I just did the swap with the front end on. Removing the old tensioner was not bad, just tricky to jimmy out (one of those "it only works one way" situations). Getting the new one in and on was an awful nightmare. Very limited room and visibility and I had an extremely difficult time determining if the tensioner was properly seated or not. The back of my hand was pretty scraped up by the radiator fan shroud at the end. Fitting the belt back on was also tricky.

Ultimately, those couple extra inches from removing the front end and putting it in the front lock carrier service position would have easily cut my overall time in half. Definitely would have done that if I were able.

Side note: I thought I kept putting the new tensioner in wrong but I realized I had not removed the locking pin from it so it didn't look right. Obviously, don't remove the pin from the tensioner until it's bolted on the car (it would be difficult and scary to do out of the car anyways), but do take note that it is there and that you must remove it.

I am also working with limited resources and tools. In fact i need to borrow jack stands & a torque wrench, and buy several drivers and extensions in order to place the beast into service position. Luckily I have a 2 car garage & adequate lighting. I will however go the front lock carrier route for proper access and education. I'm figuring 4 or 5 hours/beers 'till completion.

Will I need to pay special attention to the steering rack, after I get the tensioner fixed? I'm afraid the 2 minutes I drove the car after Serp Belt failure might have drained and starved the steering rack of fluid.

Thank you all for the input, this is ever-so valuable right now!
Old 03-30-2014, 09:53 PM
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Update:

Job complete using replacement tensioner and serpentine belt from O'riley's. Total was $110. Spent about $60 on tools & jacks. ECS Tuning sells the tensioner kit about 30% cheaper, and I prefer to support Indi businesses, but my original order took too long to process and I needed my car ASAP.

Overall a very strait forward fix, even as my first DIY. I opted to remove the front end to make necessary space, although I kept the radiator attached, because I didn't want to drain the coolant.

My advice to others DIY'ers: take your time to label and index each bolt & fastener as you remove them. Also be careful not to break or misplace the various clips, especially those in the lower bumper/skid plate. I found the over the years of shop visits my A6 has a few important brackets which have been broken or lost entirely.

Thank you all for the advice. I've saved about $400 by doing work myself.
Old 03-31-2014, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ITGUY
Like Charles, I too had to suddenly replace this tensioner on my 2k4.2 and had almost exactly the same experience, and knuckle-scraping fun...fanatically endured, to avoid front-end service mode.

Wasn't confused by the locking pin, but it did take some imagination with less-than-perfect tools to unload the tensioner spring after getting the belt in place.
There are two-foot long wrenches made especially for this job…I cheated by using a couple of combination wrenches…the box end went on the tensioner and I used another box end wrench on the open-end of the first wrench to increase the lever arm length. Could have use a length of pipe that fit over the first wrench, but what the hey.

Worst part is unloading the tensioner to get the locking allen wrench or pin in…once you know the trick it's easy.


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