Special tool for Kombi valve
 

I am to remove tne Kombie valve from my 2000 2.7t, is rthere a special tool nneded? I can not get a wrench in there.

These are the secondary air valves at the rear of the head, right? I don't know of a special tool; I was following the Blau instructions which just said to do it "by feel". If you like taking it off, wait until you put it back on!
Which brings up the first option. If you're taking off the valve covers for seal service, you can just loosen the mounting screws, especially the lower ones. (Top one's not that bad). Obviously doesn't help if you need to remove the valve for service.
I just used various hex wrenches, a hex drive socket, and a focussing flashlight and mirror to see. Box end wrench slipped over the hex if I recall. Or drive the hex with a very small open end wrench. But if you get the 3 bolts started you can probably loosen them with your fingers if you offload the valve a little with your free hand.
So it's "just" 3 bolts each, but a real pain. Line up a nice backrub from that special someone for afterwards...

I just thought there was some kind of offset distributor type of wrench out there. Strange, it seems my valve has two bolts. What size is the bolt?

Sorry, it's been since last summer, and I may not have been clear. The easiest way seemed to be to remove the valve connected to the little adapter pipe that leads into the back of the head. (I don't recall if it was possible to separate the actual valve from this little pipe; I was out to remove the valve covers). Three hex cap screws hold it on, 5 or 6 mm if I recall. One screw goes through an ear not far below the valve itself. The next is several inches down the casting/pipe, near where it tapers to merge into the head. The third is opposite the second, "below" the pipe. You can't see it if you just look down--need a mirror.

If you just need to take off the valve cover, it's possible to take out the upper bolt, and just loosen the lower two. Can then easily rock the valve out of the way to remove the valve cover. Unfortunately, I followed the directions and only learned this on the second side of the car!

I don't have a welder, but a homemade tool would be handy and pretty easy to make. There's a little bit of room in there. The problem is reaching that far in, down, and working blind with only the limited clearance.

I really appreciate your reply. I only want to replace the SAI valve that sits just aft of the valve cover. I think if I heat up and bend a 10mm wrench, I should be able to get to the two bolts on the valve. Thanks.

I used a little ignition wrench from sears to get it out.
Mine had internal wrenching bolts when I first chnaged them, and replaced with regular bolts to make it easier if I needed to do it again.

Thanks, what size wrench was it?

Those things are a complete whore to take off. On the right (passanger) side, it's easier to undo them from the block - you can shove a wrench in there (10mm?) and unbolt the tube from the engine block.

On the left side, you have to undo the valve cover and bend nipple on the old combi valve to get it out. Then you can unbolt it from the actual valve from the tube it sits on.

Good thing audi came up with a revision on the valves, so neither one of the new ones interferes with the valve cover.

Thanks halik. that is what I did. Take the tube off the block. What a pain in the ass!

When you were replacing the left side combi valve, did you work from above or below?

How in the world did you blindly hold a small 10mm wrench and get those two hex head bolts loose! I am at a loss as to how this can be done.

I was able to remove the right side combi valve with delicate handling of a 5 mm hex allen wrench (which I had to cut shorter on both ends). Interestingly, the right side combi valve was held on with two allen head bolts...but the left side combi valve is held on with two hex head bolts.