GTA_Driver

Regarding P2181, it could be the coolant temp sensor failing, your misfires are a good indication. Reseat it, or get another one, it's a $20 part.

When the brakes failed, you couldn't push them at all? Did it feel like brakes with no power assist? The fact that they are working fine now possibly means a vacuum leak. Does your pedal press all the way down to the floor?

DigitalStone

The brake pedal was stuck. Would Not go down. I'm a big guy and I put a lot on it and nothing. Like someone put a brick behind the pedal. I'm hoping its a vac problem but Have no Idea where to start on that and am worried to drive the car after the last time.

The shop didnt use distilled water Like I asked them too. They said it "Wouldn't be a problem". Even insisted I would drop off some gallons for them. Guess it wouldn't be a problem for them just a future one for me.

How should I trouble shoot the brakes problem?

2.7Lturbo

king hammer, when did you get your audi? nice to see another phoenix member !


got a LOT of tools and love spinning wrenches, also have a vag-com.

im pretty cheep too, only charge in pints of beer!!!

jseklund

DigitalStone - I may just take 2.7 up on his offer. He's been a lot of help to others on this site and it's good to have someone who can actually look at the car vs. reading about it over the internet.

It definately sounds like you have some issues, and I wouldn't drive the car without reliable brakes. Since this is a safety issue I would focus on the brakes first. I would take them apart, have somoene step on the pedel and see how each wheel responds (the pads should clamp on the rotors...it's a small movement but you should be able to detect it). They should also release when the pads come up. I would also rebleed each line and make sure clean fluid comes out as it should.

If I had to guess (which I am) then I would be looking for an issue with the master cylinder or a line that has some blockage in it. Sometimes crimped or blocked lines can act like check valves and only allow fluid to flow one way. A non-working caliper may cause this also. I would think a vacuum leak would cause the pedal to go to the floor, and a non-moving master cylinder or blocked line would cause it to become non-moving/non-operative.

As for the coolant issue - I would rebleed the system. These cars can be notorious for getting air pockets trapped in the core when you refresh the fluid. I'm not sure this would cause the problem you see - but I would make sure it was bled correctly, then look at the CTS. Also, have you tried clearing the code to see if it comes back? Since you just replaced the CTS the code may have been left over from before and just not cleared yet. You can clear it with your scanner and see if it returns.

Beyond this, a vag-com will most likely give you some clues about the misfires.

Good luck.

DigitalStone

Some more brake info. Shut the car off today at a long light downtown and started pumping the brakes. They got stiff just like when they stopped working on the freeway. Had to put a Huge amount of pressure on them to keep the car from going forward.

I'm a computer Geek. To you car professionals what does this mean and how can I google it and search the forums for an answer?

Were the two related as far as the brakes being stiff, low Idle and the rpms jumping up and down?

jseklund

That does sound more like a vacuum leak somewhere...I'd check the lines going from the firewall (from the brake booster) to the intake, etc. for cracks or detachment. They may appear connected, but could be detaching/popping off under pressure and then going back together again.

GTA_Driver

When the car is shut off, as you mentioned, there is no brake boost. It means the car is stopped via manual foot effort. When you pump the brake and it eventually "hardens" that's normal operation of the brake pedal in a car that is shut off. What did you expect?

Moreover, if the car was shut off, why did you have to prevent it from going forward? Was it on a decline?

DigitalStone

Was on a slight incline and had it in gear. Trying to play with it to safely repeat the feel of the brakes. Never had a car moving that the pedal did what it did. Had them go to the floor before but never harden it up like the engine wasnt running.

I'll look around for a leak. Thank You for the help. Didnt know if it had something to do with the new pads or what had caused it. Definitely got my heart rate up that morning.

When I got off the freeway the brake pedal stayed hard. Luckily the light was green and I was able to go through it. and it stayed hard even after I shut it down and restarted it. Wasnt until I got a couple hundred feet from the house it finally came back to normal. The engine had trouble idling when it was in neutral coasting on the way back too when it happened. Been starting it up after letting it sit in the sun and still no problems.

Like the engine running rough and the hard brakes were somehow related.

GTA_Driver

Get the car scanned, your rough idle and the brake boost issue may be connected by a vacuum leak.

KingHamer

YAY! Someone nearby that can help, your my new hero!

I got my Audi about 7 or 8 days ago lol, and now its just sitting in my driveway It be nice to have someone to consult before I start taking apart my Audi, mind if I message you my number?