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Have little cracks and a couple scratches how bad can these be? I did the wet sand today on just the one head I got pulled out. And after cleaning and doing a thuro inspection as I didn't do the first time I changed the gaskets I found these and was wondering if it's to bad to use again.
I wouldn't worry too much about those nicks. You can run a razor blade and shave off any protruding metal and polish it flat.
The cracks on the other hand are concerning. Try to use some acetone or gas etc., to clean that black stuff off to see if the crack runs deep or if it is superficial. Maybe, a safety pin or needle also could help to "dig" into it to identify if it is a real crack.
Take another pic zoomed out. I am trying to get a wider view / understand where this is.
Is that spark plug in the second pic with your finger on top right? If it is, I'd be a bit concerned. You might start losing compression initially if that crack develops and soon there might be a severe failure as the pressures would be high after cylinder fires.
I'd say seek advice of a decent machine shop. If you don't want to take chances, replace it.
Compression tool is in the mail. So I'm hoping to get started very soon. I was looking at you tube. Some may not like this type of learning but I've found some help on it. I've found this video about lapping Vavles. Since I am doing such a big job I am seriously considering it. Does anyone see a problem with how this person is doing this?
https://youtu.be/7GEmuQa3dPY
Sorry bout the copy and paste this site wouldn't let me upload the vid.
IMO, it doesn't matter how or where your learn. The important thing is the applying what you learned where it is required.
Do you really need to do this job? That's a question you have to ask yourself after examining the valves or head. I say this because you can keep extending the job forever with taking everything apart and just by a chance, may not put something back right and end up with a bigger problem than you started with.
So back again!! Got my tool today and started on a couple of Vavles I noticed on the third one that I had to push down really hard on the seal to get it to seat correctly
I will go back tomorrow and push in the other two a little more to just to make sure they are seated right. No lapping is necessary from what I've seen so far they look really smooth.
Also I have been doing a lot of cleaning since I need to go grab some grease to get the vavle holders back into place, just a trick I seen without it putting them in has been a pain... Want to make it as easy as possible.
Today's question is.., can I pressure wash the head. I want to use the engine cleaner they have at the car wash and power wash all the gunk from me cleaning and from leaking oil that has made a big mess on the outside of the head. I know acetone was mentioned but I will have to take another route this time.
How it looks so far.
The problem in washing with water is rust. Unless you can bake it right after wash to dry it and lubricate all required areas, or dunk it a bucket full of oil, it may not be a wise move. Some damage could occur due to friction (lack of oil) until oil comes up after starting the car.
You get what I mean. It's not worth it.
Clean as much as you can and I'd suggest spot cleaning with gas etc., as you go. Remember, keep mating surfaces clean. That's what's important. The rest, well, it gets dirty anyway when engine is running.
Finally got both heads in and the timing belt on. I did a full rotation on the crank shaft so heard a slight knocking on the passenger side cylinder head. How would I be able to compare the difference between a sticking lifter and vavle problem?
When I did the seal change on the Vavles none seemed to be damaged/bent.
So do these lifter holes have to match the holes in the cylinder head where you have to place them? When I put it back together where both I tried to match where holes are so they come together. Also I did use some grease on them before putting them back can this cause a sticking lift?
Finally got both heads in and the timing belt on. I did a full rotation on the crank shaft so heard a slight knocking on the passenger side cylinder head. How would I be able to compare the difference between a sticking lifter and vavle problem?
When I did the seal change on the Vavles none seemed to be damaged/bent.
About the sticking noise etc., did you verify that the arrows and notches (or vice versa, i forget) on cams matched properly and belt went on properly with crankshaft locked on TDC?...
In other words, is it aligned absolutely perfect? Slowly keep spinning the crankshaft and see if the cams return to same position... do this 8 or more times slowly spinning crankshaft with a right socket and wrench. The chain slack or belt notch misalignment will show up if there is an issue.
When I did the t-belt job, there were cam tensioner seals issues etc., anyway, I had to pull the cams out. It took me 3 or more tries to make sure everything lined up properly. But, I didn't final torque the bolts for cams. After I made sure it was all aligned, kept turning the crankshaft to make sure they aligned like I mentioned above. Only after 10 or so turns, I was confident that the alignment is perfect and proceeded with final tightening sequence with full torque as per spec.
About the sticking noise etc., did you verify that the arrows and notches (or vice versa, i forget) on cams matched properly and belt went on properly with crankshaft locked on TDC?...
In other words, is it aligned absolutely perfect? Slowly keep spinning the crankshaft and see if the cams return to same position... do this 8 or more times slowly spinning crankshaft with a right socket and wrench. The chain slack or belt notch misalignment will show up if there is an issue.
When I did the t-belt job, there were cam tensioner seals issues etc., anyway, I had to pull the cams out. It took me 3 or more tries to make sure everything lined up properly. But, I didn't final torque the bolts for cams. After I made sure it was all aligned, kept turning the crankshaft to make sure they aligned like I mentioned above. Only after 10 or so turns, I was confident that the alignment is perfect and proceeded with final tightening sequence with full torque as per spec.
So, I'd say verify properly first.
Also the knocking only occurs twice while doing a full rotation.
02-11-2017, 10:46 AM
