WRITEUP: 2.7T Secondary Air Injection SAI Pump rebuild
#11
AudiWorld Super User
#13
SAP
My pump still makes the "detist drill" sound, but it's a hight pitch now. I'm guessing the new bearings helps the pump spin faster which accounts for the higher pitch. This is a big design flaw! Nate
#14
Size of Bearings?
Going to do this job in the next month or so. Would like to order the bearings in advance. Saw that there is a similar writeup for a 1.8t SAI Pump and it calls for 2 Multi purpose bearings 6x19x6 (mm.)
Simple question =), is the pump for the 1.8 t the same Bosch 078-906-601-H?? His writeup has it as a 078-906-601-D
Anyways, would like to know if I can order the same parts listed in the 1.8T writeup or if I need to get halfway into this bad boy and then go to the hardware store, have them tell me it is special order...blah blah blah.
Simple question =), is the pump for the 1.8 t the same Bosch 078-906-601-H?? His writeup has it as a 078-906-601-D
Anyways, would like to know if I can order the same parts listed in the 1.8T writeup or if I need to get halfway into this bad boy and then go to the hardware store, have them tell me it is special order...blah blah blah.
#15
AudiWorld Newcomer
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Williamsport
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Motor rebuild
I thank you all for posting the pump rebuild. I decided to add some pictures of my own for the motor rebuild. I was reading this post before I started and was wondering about bearing replacement as well. By the way the bearings are 608's. You can find them at most hardware stores and skate shops. I went to an electric motor shop to get these and the extended part number is on the ntn box pictured.
The shop sand blasted the units for me without even asking. I was afraid to do so due to the delicate parts. He said not to worry, just dont damage the magnets or brushes. I then painted the casings with a rustolium paint(cover the magnet and paint only the casings). Also he advised to stay away from oils or grease for reasembly, these will ruin the motor. He specializes in motor rebuild so I took his advice.
I then sandblasted the fans and then wire brushed them smooth so not to have to much resistance. I have installed the unit and hooked it up to 12v and it spins quietly. It does not turn on in a cold start condition so now I am going to investigate the fuse and the relay. The motor was compleatly seized so I suspect an overload some where.
This is my first post and I use this site religiosly so I hope this helps all of you veterans to the four ring passion. Glad to be a new member.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1518253&type=3
The shop sand blasted the units for me without even asking. I was afraid to do so due to the delicate parts. He said not to worry, just dont damage the magnets or brushes. I then painted the casings with a rustolium paint(cover the magnet and paint only the casings). Also he advised to stay away from oils or grease for reasembly, these will ruin the motor. He specializes in motor rebuild so I took his advice.
I then sandblasted the fans and then wire brushed them smooth so not to have to much resistance. I have installed the unit and hooked it up to 12v and it spins quietly. It does not turn on in a cold start condition so now I am going to investigate the fuse and the relay. The motor was compleatly seized so I suspect an overload some where.
This is my first post and I use this site religiosly so I hope this helps all of you veterans to the four ring passion. Glad to be a new member.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1518253&type=3
#16
FYI, the issue with the moisture in the pump comes from the Kombi-valves. If the Kombi-valves hang open slightly, they allow the moisture from the exhaust during cold engine and warm up to enter the SAI pipes and condense. This is where the moisture enters the SAI pump motor. Over time, this will start to make the bearing oxide and seize or wear out. It's a long term affect that doesn't show up until the car is older. One thing to do though is to remove the Y-pipe from the Kombi-valves and start the engine. If you feel exhuast air coming out of the valves, you need to replace them.. They are only supposed to allow air to flow into them, but not blow out.
#17
I would love to do this rather than spending $300 on a new pump.
just want to know if I could still use the car while this is out. Do I need to plug the hose or not?
also, it would have been nice to know where you cut the hole in the motor to get that bearing out. a pic would have been great or maybe you can show exactly where in one of your pics, circle it or something...
just want to know if I could still use the car while this is out. Do I need to plug the hose or not?
also, it would have been nice to know where you cut the hole in the motor to get that bearing out. a pic would have been great or maybe you can show exactly where in one of your pics, circle it or something...
The bearings are 608S bearings, basically the same that are used in Rollerblades, I got mine at a bearing shop with life time warranty.
Once you have the whole thing apart bang out the bearings again do it with finesse. Clean the area. When you go to install the lower bearing it is off due to the magnets. I used a socket the same size as the bearing to pound back in. put the motor and pump back together and there ya go.
#18
I rebuilt this pump last weekend using this write-up. Very easy tho follow and worked great... Unfortunately, my issuer ended up being a serpentine belt that was the wrong size when installed before I bought the car. We replaced the tensioner in troubleshooting also before figuring it out... Preventative maintenance I guess!!
Anyway, thank you for the fantastic write up!!
Anyway, thank you for the fantastic write up!!
#19
I know this is an old post but I wanted to say; Thanks for the write up. I just rebuilding mine now and this post was a huge help to see what I was getting my self into before I started working on it.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#20
Awesome! Thanks for the write up. Three hours, some 608 roller-blade bearings from the local bike shop ($8), and some shrink-wrap/self bonding repair tape (for the brittle black hose I broke when reinstalling, $8), and a new fuse ($4). The hard part was getting the plate off the motor-I was glad to have a bench-vice. Thanks again!