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I removed the rear lower timing chain cover plate. I am going to install a new rear main seal in the cover. Can anyone tell me how to install the cover with the new rear main in it so I don't ruin/ have the lip of the RM seal fold out and leak?
Can you provide some pictures of it? I just looked at description and it looks like it is standard pull and push procedure.. I remember 4 cyls have special tool to press it onto cover..
Trying to do same thing here and are facing a big headache... I have T10122B tool but found that Crankshaft is bigger than the tool (T10122/2). There is no way RMS goes into without damaging inner lip.
Trying to do same thing here and are facing a big headache... I have T10122B tool but found that Crankshaft is bigger than the tool (T10122/2). There is no way RMS goes into without damaging inner lip.
Any one can help?
T10122/2 attached to Crankshaft
When I looked at the listing for the tool, the C version/complete kit loos like it comes with several drive plates to use with the press. Could it be that you don't have the correct drive plate? Also, are you using the metal press? What situation caused you to have to replace the RMS? I decided to replace the 2 camshaft and crankshaft chains and tensioners. Once I got the rear cover off, I realized that I would not be able to put that seal on without the installation kit. You are correct, if that lip fold out, it's going to rain oil.
I was able to find an 1-Audi , 1-Volkswagon and 1- independent mechanic that said to bring the engine and they would put the seal in for me. The Volkswagen dealer is the closest so I hope to finish up and bring it to them this week. Not looking forward to installing the engine. It was really difficult getting it out.
For my car which is 2006 A6 3.2 FSI, I only ned T10122/1, 2, 3. Other tools that came with are not for my car. I had common well known issue, timing chain tensioner. While my tech was working on the tensioner, we decided to replace RMS since it was leaking for years. I have checked other plate but still the same. All of pull sleeves are smaller than the crankshaft.
Actually, my mechanic found that it was easy to drop the tranny for him. Bring the engine to the other shop is not the option at this time.. I wish I could find independent mechanic near my place...
Originally Posted by Newbie123
When I looked at the listing for the tool, the C version/complete kit loos like it comes with several drive plates to use with the press. Could it be that you don't have the correct drive plate? Also, are you using the metal press? What situation caused you to have to replace the RMS? I decided to replace the 2 camshaft and crankshaft chains and tensioners. Once I got the rear cover off, I realized that I would not be able to put that seal on without the installation kit. You are correct, if that lip fold out, it's going to rain oil.
I was able to find an 1-Audi , 1-Volkswagon and 1- independent mechanic that said to bring the engine and they would put the seal in for me. The Volkswagen dealer is the closest so I hope to finish up and bring it to them this week. Not looking forward to installing the engine. It was really difficult getting it out.
For my car which is 2006 A6 3.2 FSI, I only ned T10122/1, 2, 3. Other tools that came with are not for my car. I had common well known issue, timing chain tensioner. While my tech was working on the tensioner, we decided to replace RMS since it was leaking for years. I have checked other plate but still the same. All of pull sleeves are smaller than the crankshaft.
Actually, my mechanic found that it was easy to drop the tranny for him. Bring the engine to the other shop is not the option at this time.. I wish I could find independent mechanic near my place...
Hi,
Could you post a picture of the installation tool that you used to install the RMS on your Audi 3.2 liter engine? I can't find one anywhere and am stuck.
In my dealings with seals I have found that a cone made of either a soda bottle or a plastic drinking cup (not the clear rigid styrene cups) or an appropriate size water bottle works great for this. Better off starting with a too big bottle. Cut out a cylindrical or tapered section and , if necessary for proper size cut it along the vertical axis and then shorten it enough so there is only 10-12mm of overlap at the engine side. Wind it tight to the seal journal and taper as little as possible to make it easy to insert through the seal and tape it on the end away from the engine so it will stay in place. Then just lube it up with a suitable oil, slide the cover/seal down the cone and it should make the transition over the shoulder of the journal without any drama.
I forgot to mention, if the exposed plastic edge makes you nervous you can run tape along the entire seam. A thin tape like "Scotch" tape or package sealing tape works well. Hope this helps.
I forgot to mention, if the exposed plastic edge makes you nervous you can run tape along the entire seam. A thin tape like "Scotch" tape or package sealing tape works well. Hope this helps.
I own a 3.2 but have not needed to do anything that in-depth. Seal installation is one of those "typical" things where once you have developed a set of techniques, they are useable anywhere with, perhaps, only minor tweaks for the specific application. The other way to do the seal is to put the cover that has the seal in it first, without the seal, then put the seal in after the cover is reattached. As long as the seal journal is long enough such that you can get the lip of the seal over the journal before the OD starts to engage then you stand a chance of being successful otherwise the plastic cone technique would still be needed to ensure the lip doesn't fold and the garter spring end up somewhere in the engine.
06-11-2018, 06:52 AM
2006 A6 3.2 liter rear main seal installation
