QToo

Hi All,

I have a 2009 A6 3.0T and need to replace the starter. I have searched for some writeups or vids and tough to come by.

Backstory - 130K miles - the car would not start, no clicking, no crank, nothing. After the usual diagnosis steps, I traced the problem to the braided copper jump wire from the solenoid to the starter. This was corroded and split. To try and test to make sure that was the issue, I tried to do a quick jump between the two pieces with a small metal clamp (battery tender terminal). That resulted in the entire center piece falling to the garage floor. My 2nd attempt allowed me to connect the clamp and turn the key with great trepidation - Voila - it started up - Solution found! But now how to get the stupid thing out?

Anyone have a diagram of the process? Copy of the service manual pages? I can see the lower bolt but not the upper. Tricks to get this out? Some refer to taking the alternator out, others say thru the wheel well.

B!t$# for the Day - Why do the Germans triple plate a 5 cent screw buried behind the grill to make it a $20 masterpiece, but then not spend the 1/2 of a penny for a silicone wrap on this braided copper wire?? A piece of copper of wire at the front of the engine is somehow protected for a lifetime against galvanic corrosion? :-)

Thank you kindly.

QToo

How about any ideas for jumping the connections together so I dont need to replace the whole thing? When I was able to clip it together, it started. I tried soldering but could get it hot enough. The one end on the solenoid has a crimp plate that goes on with a nut. The other side only a crimp that is part of the starter side.

Any novel ideas?

beep-beep

The stater sits behind the alternator on the right lower side of the engine. The trick to get to the starter is to take off the right wheel, wheel well liner, and CV axle. The started itself is attached with two bolts.
before replacing it you can check if it works by attaching jumper cables to the starter.
Allegedly it is a very straightforward way to replace the starter and can be done fairly fast.

beep-beep

The stater sits behind the alternator on the right lower side of the engine. The trick to get to the starter is to take off the right wheel, wheel well liner, and CV axle. The started itself is attached with two bolts.
before replacing it you can check if it works by attaching jumper cables to the starter.
Allegedly it is a very straightforward way to replace the starter and can be done fairly fast.

QToo

Beep X2, thanks for the feedback,

As a temp fix, I was able to get a jumper on the existing to get back working. Located a used starter at a local yard for $ 50 (also one of the rubber jack pads that was missing for $5 vs $40 or so OEM) and will replace it out when I get some time.

I was able to see the upper bolt at the back, but appears that the lower one has a star bolt that goes in from the front. Am I looking at this correctly? Will pull the CV but also looks like removing the rotor will give better access as well.

sswari

I know yours is a few years newer then mine, and not sure about motor, but on my 06 4.2, I had to actually pull the motor mount to get the starter out. That's a fact Jack. You can get it loose, but it will not come out with out removing the MM.

jseklund

I know this thread is old, but it comes up in Google when you search for help and I thought I would add some notes for the next person looking to do this. I did this on a 2009 Audi A6 3.0T.

I have the entire carrier drained and removed from the car right now...not service position, completely off and out of the way. I have the alternator out. There is NO way to get this out without going through the wheel well, as others have said.

If you get the lining undone you can look up and see the one bolt in the back of the engine that you need to remove. You can even reach up and touch it. You can even get a normal 16mm box wrench on it - but it is torqued down enough that you will have a hard time loosening it with a normal sized box wrench and no extension. Reaching between the front of the heat shield and the back of the engine makes getting any force even harder. It is ALMOST possible just removing the liner but I wasted more time trying than I did removing the axle.

You do not have to completely remove the axle. You have to undo 3 bolts at the top of the heat shield (approx 10, 12 and 2 o'clock). The 12 o'clock bolt is very tough. Luckily these do not have a lot of torque, but this bolt is positioned where you cannot get a socket between the top of the shield and the body. Get a REALLY long 6mm Allen wrench and you can get it in there, with the end sticking past the body into the wheel well and then use pliers or another wrench to turn it and break that bolt free. From there, the other two bolts are easy with a socket and extensions. Get the heat shield out of the way.

Then undo 6 triple square bolts on the axle to the transmission. Then you can just move the end of the axle out of the way and you have more access. Use a ratchet with an extension or two wrenches interlocked to break the bolt free and then just use a ratchet to back it out.

From the front looking back at the starter, there is a triple square bolt at about 4 O'clock. You may want to break the 10 mm nut holding the large wire to the starter before you do this, then undo the triple square bolt. The starter will be free.

I have the car apart for a lot of other issues and having the alternator out did make it much easier, but not sure it is necessary...but service position and taking the alternator out seems like it may save a lot of headache.

this job is a much bigger PITA than you think it should be.

raspeitia

Here is a picture of how I did it on my 4.2.
Support car by the front snub mount or with engine support bracket.
Disconnect battery.
Remove the right motor mount.
Remove bolts from front AND back of starter.
Remove starter.

BTW, I got the lifetime warranty one from AutoZone.

Motor mount removed to get at starter.