hrc4u

Anyone who have run a log with vcds on to see intake Max airflow with clean valves?
Could be handy to get a pointer when the build up start to get worse...
Cheers/H

cnyman

Just finished doing the job. Yep, about an hour for R&R but a bit longer than 20min per cyl on mine. The crap was building stalactites from the head to the valves. Really, really disgusting mess. The lower intake was also caked with the crap and it doesn't really clean off without a lot of manual effort with the best solvents you can find.(I found either brake clean, gasoline or carb cleaner worked equally as well as another). Thanks to the original poster for the DIY. He was very meticulous and you really do not have to take all of the stuff loose that he showed but it is a lot easier than it looks. The end result was smoother idle, better acceleration, got rid of the hesitation upon starting and shifting is smoother. (Since the map sensor has a lot more range to play with due to what must be twice the amount of air moving at idle). If you are thinking about doing it, go for it. Your engine will be glad you did.

outaline

I'm guessing for the injector repair kit you need 6 kits total, is that correct?
I'm about to order the parts from audi because when I went online to the discount Audi parts site it only could find one intake gasket.....the A & B were not recognized in their part # system. I want to make sure I get the right parts.
Thanks

outaline

Hello??? Can anybody answer my previous question? ^^^

hrc4u

Yes according to etka 6kits required
Cheers/H

mgmarceau

Hey

When you say you don't need to remove a bunch of other stuff, what do you mean by that?

Since you are only removing the intake, why do you need to purge the gas lines?

One more question :P when you spray that stuff on the valves, where does all the gunk end up after cleaning it, in the motor?

Cheers

mgmarceau

quick question, when you clean up the valves, where does all the chunk go? Inside the motor?

Looks pretty straight foward Thanks for the write-up!

audi bug

You don't want those nasty stuffs in the cylinders.
Did you see that I cleaned the valves that are closed?
Soak them with cleaning fluid, dry up with shop towels, and pick them away.

Don't you wish cnyman listed what's not necessary to be removed so that we all can run? No pictures, not happened in my book!

cnyman

audi bug,
Here's the list as far a memory serves. Many of the wiring attachment points are not necessary to be removed but you can pretty much see what has to be removed and what doesn't. The fuel lines at the fuel pump come off easily without having to take the full bracket assembly off. When you take the first one off, the second is accessible. Again, by looking at it will make some sense when you get there. Sadly, I am an experienced technician and some of remove and replace techniques have become instinctive so I really can't remember all of the items that the original poster did that were unnecessary.

Regarding the gunk and crap getting into the engine, as the other poster noted, work only on ones that are closed. Then, rotate the engine until the others close. I did not soak the chamber prior to scraping as this just makes a bigger, gloppy mess. Scrape first, vacuum, then scrape some more, vacuum, repeat until you get it 90% done, then use whatever solvent works best for you. I used carb cleaner(nasty stuff, eats rubber gloves) but it works great with a small chunk of a scotch brite pad worked around the chamber with a finger or a wooden dowel. After soaking and scrubbing/scraping some more, take a paper towel piece and shove it in the chamber to soak up the liquid or blow compressed air (if available)with a rag around the blower to catch the liquid. I wouldn't recommend the vacuum for explosive liquids

Regarding pictures, the original poster did an excellent job so repeating would be a waste. I guess I could have only shown the exceptions, but will have to wait another 40-50k miles to do it again. I can tell you that this is waay easier than doing the same thing on a 2.0T motor even though there are four more valves to deal with on the 3.2.

Oh, I almost forgot, we can get the fuel injector "o"rings from Bosch without having to pay the dealership ridiculous prices for the "kit" (15.00 or more per injector) that that contains a bunch of little parts you will not use. I cannot figure out why you would want to "remove" the injectors. The kits do come with a split washer that you could break if you were a gorilla or your engine has been run very hot and the washer was crispy, but even on my son's turbo motor (run at max boost mostly from idle)came off and went back on in one piece. I have done this job on three cars (so far) and in no case did the injectors come close to moving out of the heads.

Here is the link to the place I got them from. The part number is 1280210748. Even autozone and Advance can get this Bosch part but somehow, your local VW or Audi dealer can only sell the kit. What a shock...

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...280210748.html

So, audi bug, while I cannot provide pictures, I hope this helps. Dive in, it won't be nearly as bad as you think.

cnyman

mgmarceau,
See other post for the "other stuff". Regarding purging the lines, (actually, just reducing the pressure)if you crack a line without first reducing the pressure, the spray will go all over the place and could light your work area on fire if there was a source of combustion. (Don't ask me how I know). The procedure outlined in the original post works perfectly. Do it in order. Good luck.