3.2L FSI, What's wrong with belt tensioner and how to replace it. Plus serpentine bel
09-11-2016, 06:06 AM
#23
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I couldn't get my hands all the way to the pulley.
09-07-2017, 02:52 PM
#24
AudiWorld Member
3.0T Serpentine/ACC Belt removal during thermo replacement?
I have the SC, coolant pipe and SC belt off on my 2011 A6. I thought I would do the acc belt at the same time, but I too noticed the SC belt idler is one mm from the acc belt idler. And that the SC belt idler bolt has to be loosened. I have very short 10mm triple square bits, but might just wait until the car hits 80 or 90k. Only at 65k.
I did the service position on this car two years ago - to replace the grill. Thank God for the great YouTube video from ECS as part of the SC pulley upgrade.
12-29-2017, 01:06 PM
#25
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Serpentine belt
The manual probably tells you to change it at 30 miles. Their oil change interval say 10k miles. Lol my car would be the junk yard. I do it 5k. Use common sense or ask a guy who know cars. My belt has 75k and belt and tensior look new. Also Antifreeze/ coolant can go 75k without touching it. A lot of these so called interval changes were written for 20 year old cars. If you want to spend the price of a yacht follow the manuals recommendations. Rotate tires every time you go around the block
12-29-2017, 01:19 PM
#26
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Serpentine belt
mine to app 125k. Today's belts are made of Kevlar like the Harley's drive belt. Depends on many factors
12-29-2017, 01:25 PM
#27
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Serpentine belt
Quick update.
If you have a 3.0 supercharged A6 and you want to change the accessory belt tensioner, you're in for quite a treat.
There are two belts on that engine: One for supercharger and the other for accessories (alternator, ac compressor, power steering pump, water pump)
You have to take off the supercharger belt to access the accessory belt. That part is easy, as the tensioner bolt is easily accessible and you have some room to work with.
The problem you're going to have is taking out the accessory belt from the front. You can reach the tensioner bolt by using a serpentine belt tool and release tension, aka take off the belt from the pulled. You WILL NOT be able to take out the belt from the idler pulley. Directly over it, sits ANOTHER idler pulley. It's shiny silver and it serves the supercharger belt.
I tried taking it off, but there is just not enough room. I would need a super short torx socket, which i have yet to find. That would perhaps loosen the idler pulley where you can pull it out a little bit and get the belt past the millimeters of space between the two pulleys. I decided to quit while i am not behind, and just put it back as was, which was a pain in the *** too btw. There is virtually no room in there to work.
I think the mechanics pull the front bumper off and pull the radiator out into "service position" to do this task. Otherwise it's just too difficult.
I am going to end up paying a shop to do this. Not cool Audi, not cool.
If you have a 3.0 supercharged A6 and you want to change the accessory belt tensioner, you're in for quite a treat.
There are two belts on that engine: One for supercharger and the other for accessories (alternator, ac compressor, power steering pump, water pump)
You have to take off the supercharger belt to access the accessory belt. That part is easy, as the tensioner bolt is easily accessible and you have some room to work with.
The problem you're going to have is taking out the accessory belt from the front. You can reach the tensioner bolt by using a serpentine belt tool and release tension, aka take off the belt from the pulled. You WILL NOT be able to take out the belt from the idler pulley. Directly over it, sits ANOTHER idler pulley. It's shiny silver and it serves the supercharger belt.
I tried taking it off, but there is just not enough room. I would need a super short torx socket, which i have yet to find. That would perhaps loosen the idler pulley where you can pull it out a little bit and get the belt past the millimeters of space between the two pulleys. I decided to quit while i am not behind, and just put it back as was, which was a pain in the *** too btw. There is virtually no room in there to work.
I think the mechanics pull the front bumper off and pull the radiator out into "service position" to do this task. Otherwise it's just too difficult.
I am going to end up paying a shop to do this. Not cool Audi, not cool.
01-16-2018, 07:16 AM
#28
The manual probably tells you to change it at 30 miles. Their oil change interval say 10k miles. Lol my car would be the junk yard. I do it 5k. Use common sense or ask a guy who know cars. My belt has 75k and belt and tensior look new. Also Antifreeze/ coolant can go 75k without touching it. A lot of these so called interval changes were written for 20 year old cars. If you want to spend the price of a yacht follow the manuals recommendations. Rotate tires every time you go around the block
01-16-2018, 08:12 AM
#29
AudiWorld Member
Why don't you actually try reading through the manual vs. making up stuff on what it "probably says"? BTW, belts can look new and still be weak. Service intervals change as per the model and manufacturer of the OE (original equipment" change specs and tolerances...just because things were that way 20 years ago, doesn't mean they remain the same now.
A few years ago, I spoke with a senior German Audi engineer that had been with the company for decades. At the time, the OCI was 7500mi. I said to him, that if 7500 was recommended, than 3750 would be better. He said it was a waste of money. He told me that Audi had NEVER seen a damage claim or wear issue due to oil failure in an engine that used approved oils, filters and change intervals - as all three of these evolved over the decades. He stressed the evolution of maintenance and discussed that modern oils and engines are light years more advanced that 1970s. The problem VAG found in the US was that customers here fail to tell the truth about their actual OCI. The 1.8t sludging issue was discussed.
02-09-2020, 11:25 AM
#30
2006 Audi A6 3.2
you can do it without putting your front end in service position I did it by jacking the car up with support stands and went from under the car with someone working it from the top working the tensioner.
The following users liked this post:
das60 (02-17-2020)