Battery dead, cluster lights on
#1
Battery dead, cluster lights on
My 2008 Audi A6 has died on me 3 times this week. Every time it’s dead the EPC, ABS, Parking, traction control, and airbag lights are lit, but the car will not crank at all. Key fob doesn’t unlock the doors and if I do try to crank the key is locked in the ignition. I jumped the car once, drove around to charge and it was dead the next morning. Then I took the battery to autozone to get fully charged and check health. They say the battery is good and so I install and the car starts for 1 day. The following day the battery is dead again with all same cluster lights on. The battery is only 1.5 years old. Alternator does charge the battery. I’m going to hook up VCDS later today or tomorrow to get the codes. Just don’t have the laptop on me. It seems that something is pulling current when the car is off. Has anyone else experienced this or knows what the issue could be?
#2
maybe something drains the battery. can you check with VAGCOM what the battery computer think, Can you try to disconnect the battery when you do not use the car and connect before driving the next day. This way you will be sure that nothing drains the battery.
In my case, the Bluetooth module was flooded and it sipped the power from the battery even when the car was turned off.
Also are you sure that the generator charges battery.
In my case, the Bluetooth module was flooded and it sipped the power from the battery even when the car was turned off.
Also are you sure that the generator charges battery.
#4
A few weeks ago, my battery died and I replaced it with a new battery I recently purchased and started using in my C5. I then parked my C6 with the new battery for about a week. When I returned to use it again, I saw the same lights in the picture you posted on. That looked rather scary. I put the key in, and just like you, I couldn't start the car and I couldn't remove the key either. I was lucky to have left the car unlocked.
I connected my battery charger which 10A fuse instantly blew. Another 10A replacement fuse also blew. The thing is that during initial power transfer, the fuel system was being pressurized as it happens every morning when I open the driver's door and that seemed to be causing amperage spikes. I checked the battery charger specs and the max amperage allowed was a little more than 20A. I inserted a 20A fuse in the battery charger, crossed my fingers, connected it to the car and it did not blow. The system got pressurized, I heard a few noises in the engine bay and door lights came on. The battery was now being recharged. The MMI came on, I could now remove the key and all.
I let the car recharge for 2 hours. I then disconnected the charger and I was able to start the engine. I let the car idle for about 10 minutes and turned it off. When I tried to start it again, it struggled before starting so I decided to go drive. I went on an unplanned trip, I drove the car hard. 75 miles to Kpalimé and 75 miles back for a total of 150 miles of aggressive driving. That cured my problem.
Conclusion: The battery was new and needed to be properly recharged by the car's system.
Suggestion: Go on a trip to revive your battery
I connected my battery charger which 10A fuse instantly blew. Another 10A replacement fuse also blew. The thing is that during initial power transfer, the fuel system was being pressurized as it happens every morning when I open the driver's door and that seemed to be causing amperage spikes. I checked the battery charger specs and the max amperage allowed was a little more than 20A. I inserted a 20A fuse in the battery charger, crossed my fingers, connected it to the car and it did not blow. The system got pressurized, I heard a few noises in the engine bay and door lights came on. The battery was now being recharged. The MMI came on, I could now remove the key and all.
I let the car recharge for 2 hours. I then disconnected the charger and I was able to start the engine. I let the car idle for about 10 minutes and turned it off. When I tried to start it again, it struggled before starting so I decided to go drive. I went on an unplanned trip, I drove the car hard. 75 miles to Kpalimé and 75 miles back for a total of 150 miles of aggressive driving. That cured my problem.
Conclusion: The battery was new and needed to be properly recharged by the car's system.
Suggestion: Go on a trip to revive your battery
Last edited by kelisko; 09-21-2018 at 01:55 AM.
#5
My 2008 Audi A6 has died on me 3 times this week. Every time it’s dead the EPC, ABS, Parking, traction control, and airbag lights are lit, but the car will not crank at all. Key fob doesn’t unlock the doors and if I do try to crank the key is locked in the ignition. I jumped the car once, drove around to charge and it was dead the next morning. Then I took the battery to autozone to get fully charged and check health. They say the battery is good and so I install and the car starts for 1 day. The following day the battery is dead again with all same cluster lights on. The battery is only 1.5 years old. Alternator does charge the battery. I’m going to hook up VCDS later today or tomorrow to get the codes. Just don’t have the laptop on me. It seems that something is pulling current when the car is off. Has anyone else experienced this or knows what the issue could be?
#6
The new battery I was referring to above started being drained again a few weeks later. I eventually found out that it was caused by a malfunctioning Sirius Satellite Radio Module. I bypassed the module with a fiber optic loopback connector and it fixed the battery and the MMI issue. Watch this: youtube.com/watch?v=ID4_W2BnIu8
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